Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of September's Ride of the Month Challenge!
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got my 2008 trail teams FJ and was wondering if I should already start waxing it. If so, whats a really really good wax that wont hurt my paint or leave swirls.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,027 Posts
clay bar it good first. i only use malco's cherry flash wax. the very best i have ever used. its what is found in a lot of high end detail shops.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,984 Posts
You should wax your FJ as soon as you can right after you bring it home. This is necessary, because there is nothing but factory paint and clearcoat on the outside of the metal. You will need the wax to protect your paint from atmospheric fallout (smog and other crap in the air), sap, bird poo (and the whole bird - AKA bird strikes) and the like. For wax, I use Meguire's NXT Tech Wax. It's synthetic, and lasts a bit longer than carnuba waxes.

Once you get a good 2 coats of wax on the paint, you can go every 6 months (if you buy a good quality wax/synthetic wax) between coats. That is, if you care enough about your paint to keep it looking clean and new.

It will be exactly 1 year today since I bought my FJ. I have waxed it twice. I will be giving it a good claying this weekend if I find the time....next weekend if I can't this weekend. The clay bar treatment pulls off all of the crap that has stuck to the paint over the last year, and takes it back down to the clearcoat. I then add a couple of coats of wax to protect the paint. In November I give it another 2 coats, and it's good to go for the winter. I'll wax again in April....if not, I'll just wait until next July.

With my show cars, I clay once a year, and wax once a month. When I clay the Mustang, I wash it, clay it, use a good polish/cleaner, then follow with 2 coats of wax. Then I wax once a month.

I know this was long-winded, but I hope it helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
You should wax your FJ as soon as you can right after you bring it home. This is necessary, because there is nothing but factory paint and clearcoat on the outside of the metal. You will need the wax to protect your paint from atmospheric fallout (smog and other crap in the air), sap, bird poo (and the whole bird - AKA bird strikes) and the like. For wax, I use Meguire's NXT Tech Wax. It's synthetic, and lasts a bit longer than carnuba waxes.

Once you get a good 2 coats of wax on the paint, you can go every 6 months (if you buy a good quality wax/synthetic wax) between coats. That is, if you care enough about your paint to keep it looking clean and new.

It will be exactly 1 year today since I bought my FJ. I have waxed it twice. I will be giving it a good claying this weekend if I find the time....next weekend if I can't this weekend. The clay bar treatment pulls off all of the crap that has stuck to the paint over the last year, and takes it back down to the clearcoat. I then add a couple of coats of wax to protect the paint. In November I give it another 2 coats, and it's good to go for the winter. I'll wax again in April....if not, I'll just wait until next July.

With my show cars, I clay once a year, and wax once a month. When I clay the Mustang, I wash it, clay it, use a good polish/cleaner, then follow with 2 coats of wax. Then I wax once a month.

I know this was long-winded, but I hope it helps.
Schnikeys! That's a lot of work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
How do i make sure the clay bar doesnt scratch the paint. Im really afriad of swirl marks
since you have a white paint job you shouldn't see swirl marks. with the clay bar, make sure you fj is clean and if you drop it then it is done. throw it away and start with a new one. meguiars clay bar package comes with 2 small clay bars. the cleaner and polish is what will take out the swirl marks. the wax just protects the finish. swirl marks usually come from washing the car or using a buffer if used wrong. another way is dropping the applicator and having debris on it which is then transferred to the car.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,984 Posts
What I do is wash the car/truck with Dawn dishsoap in water. Nice and sudzy. BUT, ONLY use Dawn with the first wash BEFORE the wax goes on....it takes off wax and other surface stuff. Rinse. Then use the wash mit loaded with the soapy water, and get a section wet. Use the soapy water to lubricate the clay bar. Glide the bar along the paint unitl it's as smooth as glass. This takes NO elbow grease or pressure....just let the weight of the clay bar do the work, and move it back and forth (not in circular motions). When it's smooth, wipe it off with the soapy wash mitt, then rinse. Move on to the next section. Claying is easier than waxing. It should only take a little longer than just washing your truck to get it clayed.

Also, you only need to clay the "up-facing" surfaces, like the top edges of the fenders, hood, roof, etc. You don't need to clay the sides for at least the first year.

Keep in mind, this is to keep your FJ looking showroom new. I really don't care about that so much. I just want a finish that I can clean easily, and looks OK. The Mustang on the other hand needs to look its best.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,235 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for all the info. I have one last question. What can i use to protect all the black on the exterior. Such as the bumpers, parts of the door, and the black panel that run across the bottom. I'm afraid that will be the first to show wear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
644 Posts
303 is an excellent product. No shiny greasy finish. Real UV protection. Just spray it on a sponge and apply, wait a few and wipe it off. You can also use it on the dash and door panels etc. I usually buy mine from PerformanceProducts.com 303


303 Products Inc.: 303 Aerospace Protectant
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Another :bigthumb: for 303 Aerospace.

Also, I love Rejex for all the hard surfaces (paint, glass, headlights, turn signals, etc.). It is a polymer that forms a super slick surface that is easy to clean. I have used it on our Corvette for over a year and love it. It was the first thing I did to the FJ. I have wiped road tar from the rocker panels of the Vette with nothing more than a soapy sponge. The stuff is great...far better than wax IMHO.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,027 Posts
Thanks for all the info. I have one last question. What can i use to protect all the black on the exterior. Such as the bumpers, parts of the door, and the black panel that run across the bottom. I'm afraid that will be the first to show wear.
malco makes a product called nano spray wax that comes in a spray bottle. that is what i use after every wash. it is perfect for a dressing as well. it restores the luster and deepness of all the black trimmings without leaving a greasy surface that attracts dust. and since it is a wax, the trimmings will stay black as long as the wax lasts. neither the malco cherry flash or spray wax leaves a white residue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,027 Posts
and one more thing. MICROFIBER ONLY!!!!!!!!!!!!

that is for washing, drying, wiping down, removing wax, etc....

get a good applicator as well.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,571 Posts
303 rocks, also get the fabric protection for your seats.

Go to Car Wax, Car Polish, Auto Detail Supplies : CHEMICAL GUYS WHOLESALE AUTO DETAILING SUPPLIES CAR WASH PRODUCTS PROFESSIONAL CAR DETAIL SUPPLY FACTORY DIRECT and get the Jetseal 109, a little goes a long way so dont let the price scare you. Its a polymer that chemicaly bons to your paint, I have never used anything that beads water like jetseal. You can also put a coat of wax, like petes 53 or ice paste, and create an amazing look. Also, only use microfiber towels to wash and dry anything.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,984 Posts
You can use it the first time, just don't drop it. Getting particles of dirt in it will scratch your paint as your swirl the wax on. Microfiber is better.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top