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I bought the shock covers for the front because it is exposed more now that I have an aftermarket bumper. I will be driving cross country and will be on the road for an extended period, so the chances of debris hitting the shocks/shaft on the highway is likely. The FJ will be my home away from home, so keeping her in tip top shape is a priority.

Just bought the ARB deluxe room and chair / table. Planning on sleeping on a cot inside the ARB room in place of a tent.

 

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Mine came with these shock guards on them. I didn't think they'd work well for rocks and stones etc but they seem to be doing their job.

Those seem to be about the best. Open back so you can wash them out if needed. I had left the rubber boots on Icon 2.0's and obviously they filled up with dirt.
 

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Those seem to be about the best. Open back so you can wash them out if needed. I had left the rubber boots on Icon 2.0's and obviously they filled up with dirt.
ARB stuff is spendy, but it's also top quality.
 

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You don’t even want to know . Details soon
 

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Currently installing the toytec boss 3in lift with 700lb springs up front for when I get the road armor titan bumper and winch. Ps no directions showed up


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Yeah, on regular shocks, we just throw those boots in the trash. They may look cool to some but they cause more harm than good. Maybe not so much in arid climates.

Added: I just read a post from Deb that she likes the boots to prevent pitting of shaft on shocks, hence run the boots. I don't see that in the Rockies very often but it is usually due to poor chroming of the shock shaft itself. Her issue is probably related to road salt eating away at the chrome on the shaft, resulting in rust and pitting. That's probably the best argument for using shock boots that I've read.
Those seem to be about the best. Open back so you can wash them out if needed. I had left the rubber boots on Icon 2.0's and obviously they filled up with dirt.
I’ve had great luck with the same rubber accordion boots @ZerosFJ showed a few posts back, but split open so they actually functionally resemble thos Icon shaft guards. Also means I can easily install/remove/wash out. I zip tie them at top and bottom, overlapping the neoprene boots Sarah made so they stay in place :smile I’ve gotten minor rust on the shock body which I maintain the same as other rust, so no big deal. My impression after running the boots on shocks in hard wheeling/hot desert is it’s fine with heat dissipation.

I was told my first shock failure was initially due to stone pitting on the shaft, but subsequent compromise of the shock seal allowed road glop to enter and hasten the shock’s demise. I lost a rear shock in a similar way - unbeknownst to me the boot had collected an amazing amount of salty, gritty mud which probably contributed to killing the seal.

Just boot em Dan-o :grin
 

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Well, there goes my paycheck. I guess I can give you guys a hint at what's coming... :rofl:
 

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That's currently what I'm installing as I write this. Tips. Lower ball joint does not need to be removed.

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How long has the install taken so far? I'm curious how long I should expect it to take. I'm planning to meet up with another forum member who's done the install for some help.
 

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How long has the install taken so far? I'm curious how long I should expect it to take. I'm planning to meet up with another forum member who's done the install for some help.
I probably started around 530ish. And I'm probably bout 20 min from being done. Except for the dif drop. So 7.5 hr. I've never done this. I'm doing it alone, I'm also not rushing. It's also dark and I'm doing this in the back yard. I am mechanically inclined. Dont expect instructions to come with bit its pretty straightforward. I'm bout to throw the rear tires back on now and take it to get alignment tomorrow morning.

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What springs you get. 700 up front for me and the HD in the rear.

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I called in and ordered the Boss kit, but with the upgraded 2.5 coils that come on the Boss performance kit. It will basically be the performance kit, just without the rear reservoirs because I didn't feel that was necessary, or worth the money for my use. The 2.5's are rated at 650 pounds, which should be about right since I have the additional roof rack and RTT weight constantly, and I plan to get a metaltech tube bumper at some point. It's not a lot of weight difference up front, but with the added constant load, I figured that would still probably be appropriate.
Rear I just went with the superflex coils and standard boss rear shocks.
 

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I called in and ordered the Boss kit, but with the upgraded 2.5 coils that come on the Boss performance kit. It will basically be the performance kit, just without the rear reservoirs because I didn't feel that was necessary, or worth the money for my use. The 2.5's are rated at 650 pounds, which should be about right since I have the additional roof rack and RTT weight constantly, and I plan to get a metaltech tube bumper at some point. It's not a lot of weight difference up front, but with the added constant load, I figured that would still probably be appropriate.

Rear I just went with the superflex coils and standard boss rear shocks.
Yea I plan for another roof rack and rtt. Also the road armor titan 2 bumper and winch.

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Yea I plan for another roof rack and rtt. Also the road armor titan 2 bumper and winch.

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I would love to get a rear bumper with swingout, but I don't think that's ever going to happen. I just don't think I can justify the expense, and I've never really had the need for it. But they look sexy as hell! For the front, I've never been a fan of the big boxy bumpers, like the ARB. Nothing against them, they're beefy and super tough, but the aesthetics just don't click for me. The metal tech tube front is probably my favorite I've found, although I do like the demello's too. They're just not worth the extra money to me.
I do plan to install a winch when I finally get a new bumper, but I think I'm going to prioritize sliders and skids first. I've been trying to decide between knocking those out, or the bumper, but I think the under body protection is probably the smarter choice, even if it isn't as exciting.
Metaltech, if you're reading this (you're not), I'll come to you if you'll cut me a screaming deal on that bumper :lol::lol:
 
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I would love to get a rear bumper with swingout, but I don't think that's ever going to happen. I just don't think I can justify the expense, and I've never really had the need for it. But they look sexy as hell! For the front, I've never been a fan of the big boxy bumpers, like the ARB. Nothing against them, they're beefy and super tough, but the aesthetics just don't click for me. The metal tech tube front is probably my favorite I've found, although I do like the demello's too. They're just not worth the extra money to me.

I do plan to install a winch when I finally get a new bumper, but I think I'm going to prioritize sliders and skids first. I've been trying to decide between knocking those out, or the bumper, but I think the under body protection is probably the smarter choice, even if it isn't as exciting.

Metaltech, if you're reading this (you're not), I'll come to you if you'll cut me a screaming deal on that bumper
Yea I'll end up with a swing out eventually. I wonder if swing outs are compatible with the ladder in the rear.
For now I'll probably focus on sliders and snorkel. Dual battery kit and washer tank relocation. Will also probably end up with that aux fuel tank too


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Yea I'll end up with a swing out eventually. I wonder if swing outs are compatible with the ladder in the rear.
For now I'll probably focus on sliders and snorkel. Dual battery kit and washer tank relocation. Will also probably end up with that aux fuel tank too


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Damn, you're making some serious moves on that thing! Can't wait to see updates as the build progresses!

I also installed front swaybar quick disconnect, and extended rear swaybar links.



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So, being an offroad noob, how does the quick disconnect work, and what is the advantage? Just more flex and articulation while off camber? Any risks or concerns with the swaybar disconnected?
 

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MOAB SUPERSTAR
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Damn, you're making some serious moves on that thing! Can't wait to see updates as the build progresses!



So, being an offroad noob, how does the quick disconnect work, and what is the advantage? Just more flex and articulation while off camber? Any risks or concerns with the swaybar disconnected?
I’ve run disconnects for years and feel they make a big difference offroad - better articulation. I’ve also sliced a few cv axle boots when the nut on the swaybar wiggled loose, so use red locktite and check them often!
 
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