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How complex is the lock mechanism? If it's just a tab, you might be able to use a screwdriver to jam it while turning the lug with a wrench or vice grip.
It's shaped kinda like a four leaf clover. One lug was very tight, so I was leaning on it. That's when it popped off and bent the clover shape and split the side. Now it's stripped. The clover shape just won't grab the lock lugs.
 

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Tried to rotate my tires. Split and stripped the wheel lock key. Won't grab the locking lugs anymore, so now what? :lol: Trip to the dealer?
My son lost his wheel lock key. We just welded a nut to them and used a socket to get them of. Then bought a new set. If you dont have a welder maybe JB weld might work. Not sure about the JB weld though :)
 

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I wasn't planning on fixing it at all actually; it's got 140k miles on it and I don't think it'll catastrophically fail in the next 60k miles. Maybe if I can get someone to weld it for me for cheap, I'll do that; otherwise it's not worth the headache. Also, small price to pay for the views the FJ's taken me to!
If you were closer we could terminate those cracks by drilling and have those welded up in an hour or so.
 

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Light Racing UCAs (Couldn't get back to stock alignment settings after lift)

Note: Got 'em installed on Friday. Will post my pics when I can upload again. Maybe Tuesday. tks

Lee (not me :)), guy that does the alignment did the install. Install + alignment was $271. Knows his stuff and did an excellent job. Very happy with how it goes down the road now.

Got the U-joints greased too.

This version of the UCAs, as of Jan 2016, have zerk fittings.

Checked the FJ in the parking lot. Still looks like rear end is higher but the frame is level. The 6112's are on slot 3. Maybe 2", web says 1.5 but I read on the forum it is closer to 2". FJ is loaded, full of gas, storage/recovery drawer full but doesn't have the water or gas cans installed/filled (70 ish pounds).

Picture of the alignment machine before the toe adjustment. RH caster is +.1 for the road crown. Camber straight up 0. Toe = 1/16" (.005). I got the numbers from the forum but forgot the thread and the person that posted, but thank you!. Lee liked the numbers and used them.

Initially set the UCAs to 0 (factory +2) and all the way out. Lee centered the factory adjusters then tapped the UCAs to 0 and locked them down, 150 ft/lbs. Probably ended up near the 1/8" in that I read on the forum.

Took her offroad Saturday. Tried to go from Olallie Lake to Breitenbush Lake (South Mt Hood Oregon) but got into snow at 5000 ft and turned back. I'll post it separately when I can do pics again.

Didn't knock anything out of alignment. Just can't tell you how much better is drives and steers now. :grin
 

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Mounted the winch remote plug in the grill. Wired the plug to a quick disconnect so I can still remove the grill easily. Also ran the wires to have a second switch in the cab, but I still need to get another switch.
 

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Currently plasti dip spraying all the silver parts on the dash board. Not while its attached of course. :grin
 

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Got my awning mounted up on some GZillaDesigns mounts and got a set of Maxtrax on using Baja Rack tent mounts and some Maxtrax pins.






 

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(uploaded the photos showing how I...)

1. Installed my newly-painted AllPro APEX rock sliders



... and then took them out to Hidden Falls Adventure Park. They got plenty muddy (this photo taken after a rinse), but only from the wheels kickin' up mud. I don't think they actually touched anything. Oh well... maybe next time.

2. Relocated my trailer connector up above the hitch bar

Before (thanks, BMRA)



After

 

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Saw online where guys just hammered a socket over the nut and eased it off. I tired the following and all were too big or too small: 11/16, 5/8, 15mm, 16mm, 17mm. Thanks Toyota. :lol:
Update: I found a 12-point 16mm socket that would just barely fit over the top of the lock nut. I hammered it over the lock nut, then used a breaker bar to twist the lock nut off. Then, I hammered the removed lock nut out of the socket, and repeated the process on the remaining lock nuts.

I am done with wheel locks, especially the OEM ones that come with a thin-walled key (split way too easily). I replaced all of the OEM lug nuts with aftermarket ones that include a thick steel spline key.

I also made sure to use a torque wrench to install the wheels this time. :grin
 

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Update: I found a 12-point 16mm socket that would just barely fit over the top of the lock nut. I hammered it over the lock nut, then used a breaker bar to twist the lock nut off. Then, I hammered the removed lock nut out of the socket, and repeated the process on the remaining lock nuts.

I am done with wheel locks, especially the OEM ones that come with a thin-walled key (split way too easily). I replaced all of the OEM lug nuts with aftermarket ones that include a thick steel spline key.

I also made sure to use a torque wrench to install the wheels this time. :grin
Glad you got things fixed w/o a major headache. :clap:

As for me I use the torque wrenches for everything. Just an excuse to play with my old tools. I have about $1000 in torque wrenches alone. They haven't been calibrated/certified since I retired.
 

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Glad you got things fixed w/o a major headache. :clap:

As for me I use the torque wrenches for everything. Just an excuse to play with my old tools. I have about $1000 in torque wrenches alone. They haven't been calibrated/certified since I retired.
Thanks. It was a pain, but partly one of my own doing. A couple of those lugs were so tight... :rawr::jester:
 

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just got my curve on (light bar, that is...)
D :)
 
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