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Yesterday I noticed that the drivers side mirror light was not working. I had modified it for a 7443 LED amber. Also functions as a turn signal.

I pop the mirror off and probed the wiring. It had power. So I removed the socket and lamp. As I wiggled it, the LEDs lit. Aha! Since it is a wedge base it has those fine wires as contacts. I removed the lamp and bent the wires up just a bit. It works now. However I did notice that 3-4 of the about dozen LEDs are a bit dim. I'm sure it's out of warranty by now. But I think that I'll order another one.
 

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Yesterday I noticed that the drivers side mirror light was not working. I had modified it for a 7443 LED amber. Also functions as a turn signal.

I pop the mirror off and probed the wiring. It had power. So I removed the socket and lamp. As I wiggled it, the LEDs lit. Aha! Since it is a wedge base it has those fine wires as contacts. I removed the lamp and bent the wires up just a bit. It works now. However I did notice that 3-4 of the about dozen LEDs are a bit dim. I'm sure it's out of warranty by now. But I think that I'll order another one.
Same exact thing happened to my OE mirror lights. While I was trying to figure out how to remove the mirror it turned back on! I ended up taking them out anyway as I had their LED replacement on-hand.

You ain't gonna wheel with it like that are you ?
:rofl:
stay on the black till you get it fixed....
Cheers
Baz
:blueblob:
Certainly not, better get it fixed soon then huh? The urge to wheel is strong, who knows when it will strike! :worried:

Good thing the solutions are on their way. ;)
 

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Replaced my MG CLT relay with one I got off Ebay for $12 plus shipping. So far so good!
Why'd you have to change it?
 

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Well we've had rain for a week straight here. About 3 days into it I started noticing a slight clunk when coming to a complete stop on occasion, but it got worse over the next few days. I was starting to get worried that it was the dreaded driveline clunk but then it started doing it when I would turn my wheel while stopped too. My transmission also started to squeak when shifting between drive and reverse, but I've already been told that was normal due to the humidity/moisture.

Finally today it had dried up and I didn't hear the noise anymore, so I crawled under to take a quick look and it looks like the LCA bushing is starting to go. I'm planning on taking the wheel off to take a better look this weekend and I'll grab some pics. If I can verify that is my problem then it'll be off to the dealer to see if I can get them to replace it. I have 33.5K miles so I'm just under warranty there but it's a 2013 model that was purchased March '14. I'll also need to pull out the extended warranty and try to use that as well, but am prepared for some pushback claiming that my lift is what caused the bushing to fail prematurely.

I know others have had mixed results getting this issue fixed so I'm keeping my fingers crossed that I don't have too much of a problem.
 

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I was getting the flashing A/C light and no cold air. Now the light is on steady and it's nice and cool inside.:cool:
Thanks! Good to know!
 

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My coil over was my droop limiter, which survived until I removed my sway bar, great for independent left and right suspension, tough on coil over. The swaybar distributed some of the velocity to both sides, once gone each coil over was solo and a top hat broke soon after. I now have fitted limit straps reducing the travel from 10.5" to 10", my hats don't take the hits on either end and my CV angles are kinder. Wheelers bumpstops with spacers on compression, straps on extension.

Bind could be many things you would rather not load; balljoint, UCA uni ball, shock, CVs... Or run it and see if something breaks, like many have.

Limit straps are a conventional and adjustable way to stop an LCA's down travel. Waiting for CabinCruiser and specifics with what is limiting his down travel on the "dialed in" set up, if it's better I will ditch my straps. :smile
I have no intention of removing my sway bars as it's my DD including plenty of urban & hiway miles and sway bars don't seriously impact the type of offroading that I do.
I would consider straps if I made any further changes to my suspension though.
 

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I have no intention of removing my sway bars as it's my DD including plenty of urban & hiway miles and sway bars don't seriously impact the type of offroading that I do.
I would consider straps if I made any further changes to my suspension though.
But switchbacks are so much more fun when the body flops back and forth!
 

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We'll, supposed to only be a 2.5 inch lift, but now seems to max it out. Didn't want it huge as the wife (bad knee) and I are mild offroaders. I do have 285/70/17s on there, but in my opinion they looked great before this lift. They do look off now.
Give it a couple thousand miles to settle. If you're mild offroaders, I would have recommend custom rear springs (any height you requested) and bilstein adjustable 6112 or 5110 fronts to level things out. I'm glad I didn't go tall, bigger tires to fill a previous mod/mistake isn't my idea of an easy our cheap fix.
 

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Give it a couple thousand miles to settle. If you're mild offroaders, I would have recommend custom rear springs (any height you requested) and bilstein adjustable 6112 or 5110 fronts to level things out. I'm glad I didn't go tall, bigger tires to fill a previous mod/mistake isn't my idea of an easy our cheap fix.
Where did you get your custom rear springs from?:cheers:
 

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Just finished up the Swiss DRL mod. What a pain in the arse to get that DRL relay box detached and crimp the wires in that small space.
Since the wire from the relay is low voltage, the ch4x4 LED doesn't light up very bright when the DRLs are on, which kind of bugs me, but it's nice being able to turn off my headlights completely.

Before you start it, just pull the parking brake up one notch, that will disable the DRL's
 

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MOAB SUPERSTAR
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Had an ome 2.5 heavy lift put on front and rear, but seems to me like it maxed out my suspension. I looked at it yesterday at the local toyota dealership, and now they say it needs a diff drop. To me it's wrong. Had the lift sent straight to the dealership, and told them to put it on when I was out of town. Doesn't seem right for a 2.5 inch lift to do this. Any ideas on why this happened or is it right? I'm kind of sideways about this. Haven't driven it yet, but looks totally wrong to me.

My avatar is the original height before the lift.
Am I just panicking for no reason?
To me it just looks like a lifted FJ :rocker: Curious if you had a reason to order the heavy OMEs - are you planning to tow a trailer? If not, and if you don't like the ride then you could easily sell the shocks here, and buy a set more suited for your purposes. That would be a much less expensive solution than bigger tires, and keep your ride height manageable for your wife. Also a diff drop is not a bad idea to help out your cv axles. Final recommendation - find a good garage that deals with modified vehicles!
 

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Where did you get your custom rear springs from?:cheers:
I got mine from Coil Spring Specialties (recommended by other members here) but there were two negatives. -1 They were expensive IMO. -2. The powdercoat on the springs were terrible from what I expected of new springs. I paid $310 shipped. I highly suggest shopping around. Deaver or Eibach should be able to get a custom height and rates. In the past I've used Eibach on compact cars. Their custom stuff is most likely on the costly end but know their quality is tops!

eibach custom race springs
 

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トヨタ Master
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My coil over was my droop limiter, which survived until I removed my sway bar, great for independent left and right suspension, tough on coil over. The swaybar distributed some of the velocity to both sides, once gone each coil over was solo and a top hat broke soon after. I now have fitted limit straps reducing the travel from 10.5" to 10", my hats don't take the hits on either end and my CV angles are kinder. Wheelers bumpstops with spacers on compression, straps on extension.

Bind could be many things you would rather not load; balljoint, UCA uni ball, shock, CVs... Or run it and see if something breaks, like many have.

Limit straps are a conventional and adjustable way to stop an LCA's down travel. Waiting for CabinCruiser and specifics with what is limiting his down travel on the "dialed in" set up, if it's better I will ditch my straps. :smile
My suspension doesn't bottom out before the shock as the only weight bringing it down are the tire, the wheel, the brake rotor, calipers, pads, hardware, spindle, UCA, LCA, and brake lines at approximately 175 lbs. The shock has more travel than the OEM and all is limited by the suspension components itself. If I were to take the sway bar out of the equation, then I know I would need limiters, but I have no intention of doing that.....yet!:lol: If I decide to, you'll be the 1st person on my list to ask which straps are the best. How's that sound? :cheers:

On a side note, this FJ is still the Mrs. and I won't be performing any more modifications to it, unless requested by her. It performs it's intended duty just fine the way it is. I am now officially on the hunt for another FJ for myself and will be modifying to my standards, which include healthy body modifications, different and possibly custom fabricated bumpers and sliders, etc. I also am a huge fan of SAS and have performed many of these on other Toyota chassis over the years, and may go this route on my FJ as well. I'm looking at one to potentially purchase this week if I can get the right deal on it. I'll be filling plenty of pages in this thread when it happens. Stay tuned!
 

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My suspension doesn't bottom out before the shock as the only weight bringing it down are the tire, the wheel, the brake rotor, calipers, pads, hardware, spindle, UCA, LCA, and brake lines at approximately 175 lbs. The shock has more travel than the OEM and all is limited by the suspension components itself. If I were to take the sway bar out of the equation, then I know I would need limiters, but I have no intention of doing that.....yet!:lol: If I decide to, you'll be the 1st person on my list to ask which straps are the best. How's that sound? :cheers:



On a side note, this FJ is still the Mrs. and I won't be performing any more modifications to it, unless requested by her. It performs it's intended duty just fine the way it is. I am now officially on the hunt for another FJ for myself and will be modifying to my standards, which include healthy body modifications, different and possibly custom fabricated bumpers and sliders, etc. I also am a huge fan of SAS and have performed many of these on other Toyota chassis over the years, and may go this route on my FJ as well. I'm looking at one to potentially purchase this week if I can get the right deal on it. I'll be filling plenty of pages in this thread when it happens. Stay tuned!


Didn't you have a ttue as well?
 

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トヨタ Master
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Didn't you have a ttue as well?
I did but I just couldn't bring myself to butchering one that was limited production and thought that somebody else would probably like to have a super low mileage TTUE for themselves to preserve and keep original. I sold it last September to a kid right out of college who wanted it for what it is and didn't want to change anything on it. He'd been saving up for a TTUE for 2 years while going to school and staying away from girls and now he's got his ride, got his career job, and is looking forward to his own adventures in life with his special FJ.
 
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