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Tidy welds. I suspect you may have done that before...
To be honest, my friend Lonnie did the welding. He's a car builder/machinist, he's done some very nice builds..
 

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I installed an ARB bumper, with pretty green earrings for my wife. I haven't yet wired up the winch or lights, but that's what holiday Mondays are for. Now the front end is almost exactly 2 inches lower than the rear. Should I change out the front shock with Bilstein 5100's ($117 each) or 6112's ($585/pair)? What the difference and why is one better than the other?


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Had a decent day:

Got the flood lights off, repainted the faded trim ring, freshened up some wiring for the floods and light bar (quick connects) and more wire loom.

I was tempted to paint the trim rings pink.....just cause.


While the paint was drying I decided the engine was due for another clean and detail.
 

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Changed oil, filter and greased. Now ready to head out for day trip to Murray ID. Museum, cemetery and pub/grill!:wink
 

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Installed some security hardware on my Baja Design lights. Won't stop a determined thief with decent tools, but might discourage the standard tweaker. Also got my Tred's set up on the roof rack. Didn't want to drill holes in the slats, so I found a couple reinforced nylon gun belts I wasn't using anymore to strap the Tred mount down. Seems pretty secure so far.

Rims went on Friday, so I don't get credit for that today...I love 'em though! >:D
 

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Looks good, but how is your engine compartment so clean? Mine seems to have a sticky substance that holds dust on everything.
I rinse the bay with almost with every wash especially in the winter, been doing so since day 1. No direct hits with a pressure washer just a simple shower like watering a plant.

I also use Mothers Back to Black or low luster tire shine on the plastic bits. Seems to work pretty good.

The guys at the Lexus dealer where I go for oil changes cringe when they see the engine bay...they have to be sure to work cleaner than normal. I always check before I leave. The Service Manager thinks its hilarious.
 

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I rinse the bay with almost with every wash especially in the winter, been doing so since day 1. No direct hits with a pressure washer just a simple shower like watering a plant.

I also use Mothers Back to Black or low luster tire shine on the plastic bits. Seems to work pretty good.

The guys at the Lexus dealer where I go for oil changes cringe when they see the engine bay...they have to be sure to work cleaner than normal. I always check before I leave. The Service Manager thinks its hilarious.
That's hilarious, I'll be picking up some Mother's back to Black tomorrow. It may take a few times to get mine looking as good as yours, but I'm starting tomorrow.

Thanks!
 

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Installed the front skid plate. I had it down while changing front shocks and serpentine belt. While it was off I treated some minor rust here and there and painted.

I used Back to Black a while back and it worked well. I switched to that Protectant 303 or something like that for the better UV protection.
 

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There's also the larger all-aluminum CSF radiator, (which I run in mine now).
There is also the option of the big radiator used in the GCC (and I assume Australian/African) FJs.
There's part numbers and pics on here somewhere in a thread about electric fans by a member in Saudi.
There's also an option from Ron Davis Radiators. You can get it for an auto or manual transmission, and there's the option of adding dual spal fans. Like it was mentioned earlier in the thread, if you want to run cooler, you'll need a cooler thermostat. You should get the Motor Rad thermostat from Amazon and the URD thermostat spacer (I have the URD 160 degree thermostat, but it only maintains 190's). You'll have to modify the thermostat housing to accommodate as well. But you can get operating temperatures in the 170's, although keep in mind that aftermarket thermostats are rated for what temperature they START to open. Not the actual operating temperature. If you need additional cooling capacity, the RD radiator is the premium option......Not cheap though, I'll warn you in advance.
 

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@DocME is that your rad setup or from RD? If it's yours, how do you like the switch from clutch to electric? While I had considered this, one of my friends in the race industry had always recommended to keep it simple and the clutch fan was more than efficient. Did you change to a distill/glycol fill as well? Wondering how well it works on our vehicles since I'm still on antifreeze (even though we don't get freezing temps here, some evenings are cold enough)
 

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@DocME is that your rad setup or from RD? If it's yours, how do you like the switch from clutch to electric? While I had considered this, one of my friends in the race industry had always recommended to keep it simple and the clutch fan was more than efficient. Did you change to a distill/glycol fill as well? Wondering how well it works on our vehicles since I'm still on antifreeze (even though we don't get freezing temps here, some evenings are cold enough)


Also interested in this info @DocME. Any experience with the E fans in mud? I’ve had a buddy’s spal go out after mud was caked on for a bit.


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Working on custom front grill , temp mock up in place , stil be using the black mesh grillcraft to match lower and retrofitting to aftermarket rover style grill , just weather or not to use TOYOTA , raptor style lettering or Big "T "EMBLEM that's on mock up , I've been collecting badges, emblems ,etc with intentions of creating when inspired . As we all know it's always more.
Also leaning towards anodized orange Accents already found burgundy with orange seat covers that will tie it all together
 

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@DocME is that your rad setup or from RD? If it's yours, how do you like the switch from clutch to electric? While I had considered this, one of my friends in the race industry had always recommended to keep it simple and the clutch fan was more than efficient. Did you change to a distill/glycol fill as well? Wondering how well it works on our vehicles since I'm still on antifreeze (even though we don't get freezing temps here, some evenings are cold enough)
Also interested in this info @DocME. Any experience with the E fans in mud? I’ve had a buddy’s spal go out after mud was caked on for a bit.


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Yep, that's mine. I really like the electric fans over the clutch fan. No doubt there's a lot of reliability in the clutch fan, but desert racers and rock crawlers use spal fans all the time. There's reasons for it. You'll get superior air movement no matter what rpm your engine is turning. Like cold a/c in 110 degrees, right when you start your truck? electric fans make it happen. I have two fans, so there's some comfort in redundancy. Not concerned in the least bit about reliability of this setup. I also installed a pulse width modulator, so the fans only run as hard as needed. This means they are almost silent during most operations. I LOVE not having to hear the truck sound like a prop plane at startup. I also have a timing relay from the a/c clutch that triggers an a/c circuit on the controller. This allows the fans to kick up to a predetermined speed when I turn the a/c on no matter the engine temperature. The timer relay also keeps the fans running with the a/c even if the compressor clutch cycles off. Two more cool features are the timer relay that keeps the fans running for thirty seconds after you shut the truck off, and the ability to add a fail safe switch that turn the fans on full bore if you had a failure of the controller.....This one allows you to wire an interrupt switch in the ignition 12V trigger, that means you can also wire a switch to turn them OFF if you're going into a mud crossing. I will admit that I did also swap out the stock Spal fan connectors for my preferred Metri-pack connectors that are more water tight.

The only real issue that I'm having is that the spal fans don't like the frequency of the PWM that my controller sends them. They actually throw some pretty serious vibrations that I can feel in the floor boards at some fan RPM's. I hate this part of it. I've done everything on my end that I can to deaden the vibrations and have played around with the temperature settings to reduce the feel of them. I'm awaiting a "high frequency" PWM from my contact that should help to cope with this issue. My other option is to change out the fans, but I don't want to leave the spal line up.....
 

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Yep, that's mine. I really like the electric fans over the clutch fan. No doubt there's a lot of reliability in the clutch fan, but desert racers and rock crawlers use spal fans all the time. There's reasons for it. You'll get superior air movement no matter what rpm your engine is turning. Like cold a/c in 110 degrees, right when you start your truck? electric fans make it happen. I have two fans, so there's some comfort in redundancy. Not concerned in the least bit about reliability of this setup. I also installed a pulse width modulator, so the fans only run as hard as needed. This means they are almost silent during most operations. I LOVE not having to hear the truck sound like a prop plane at startup. I also have a timing relay from the a/c clutch that triggers an a/c circuit on the controller. This allows the fans to kick up to a predetermined speed when I turn the a/c on no matter the engine temperature. The timer relay also keeps the fans running with the a/c even if the compressor clutch cycles off. Two more cool features are the timer relay that keeps the fans running for thirty seconds after you shut the truck off, and the ability to add a fail safe switch that turn the fans on full bore if you had a failure of the controller.....This one allows you to wire an interrupt switch in the ignition 12V trigger, that means you can also wire a switch to turn them OFF if you're going into a mud crossing. I will admit that I did also swap out the stock Spal fan connectors for my preferred Metri-pack connectors that are more water tight.



The only real issue that I'm having is that the spal fans don't like the frequency of the PWM that my controller sends them. They actually throw some pretty serious vibrations that I can feel in the floor boards at some fan RPM's. I hate this part of it. I've done everything on my end that I can to deaden the vibrations and have played around with the temperature settings to reduce the feel of them. I'm awaiting a "high frequency" PWM from my contact that should help to cope with this issue. My other option is to change out the fans, but I don't want to leave the spal line up.....


Definitely appreciate you taking the time to explain! All that wiring sounds too complicated for my skill level when it comes to electrical work though . If for any reason my radiator goes out, I might dip my toes back into this pool. Do you have a write up for the install?


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Yep, that's mine.
This is really neat! I've been wanting to clean up the engine bay. I used a dual Fan controller before but along the lines that it only turned on 100% based on the desired temp, so I would have one wired to come on at 170 and one at 190+. Usually if I'm not in a rush, there's no issues with spikes but if I was running hot and stalled, the fans would be on while trying to crank. I like what you're telling me though. I just realized several other companies have a PWM similar to what you were mentioning. Are you using a particular brand that you can recommend? It's been a long time since I've looked up e-fan technology and a lot has changed in controllers.

This will definitely be added to the list..
@isancho if and when you do, several companies make the controller. You would install the fans and tap radiator hose for coolant/engine temp. Then wire the control box for fans and one for A/C relay(? I haven't done this but assuming from DocME's post). I think it's more difficult than it sounds.. but getting a proper shrouded fan to the radiator like Doc's setup is the most important in how it'll pull the air.
 
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