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There's also an option from Ron Davis Radiators. You can get it for an auto or manual transmission, and there's the option of adding dual spal fans. Like it was mentioned earlier in the thread, if you want to run cooler, you'll need a cooler thermostat. You should get the Motor Rad thermostat from Amazon and the URD thermostat spacer (I have the URD 160 degree thermostat, but it only maintains 190's). You'll have to modify the thermostat housing to accommodate as well. But you can get operating temperatures in the 170's, although keep in mind that aftermarket thermostats are rated for what temperature they START to open. Not the actual operating temperature. If you need additional cooling capacity, the RD radiator is the premium option......Not cheap though, I'll warn you in advance.
G'Day Doc,
That is a sweet set up ...very sexy...well done.

A few years back I spoke to Dirty Deeds about an dual E fan set up, but on their advise didn't pursue it.
But I did end up doing a simple setup - putting a push fan in front of the Rad, that I manually control / cabin switch. Only need it when slow crawling to force more air thru.
No where near as uber cool or effective as a dual E fan set up like yours, still it works, coupled with hood louvers, helps move air past the engine.

cheers
Baz
:blueblob:
 

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This is really neat! I've been wanting to clean up the engine bay. I used a dual Fan controller before but along the lines that it only turned on 100% based on the desired temp, so I would have one wired to come on at 170 and one at 190+. Usually if I'm not in a rush, there's no issues with spikes but if I was running hot and stalled, the fans would be on while trying to crank. I like what you're telling me though. I just realized several other companies have a PWM similar to what you were mentioning. Are you using a particular brand that you can recommend? It's been a long time since I've looked up e-fan technology and a lot has changed in controllers.

This will definitely be added to the list..
@isancho if and when you do, several companies make the controller. You would install the fans and tap radiator hose for coolant/engine temp. Then wire the control box for fans and one for A/C relay(? I haven't done this but assuming from DocME's post). I think it's more difficult than it sounds.. but getting a proper shrouded fan to the radiator like Doc's setup is the most important in how it'll pull the air.


I really like the idea and should free up a little noticeable power once the clutch fan is off. I’ll start reading up on this (again) just to see how technology has changed over the years. Really diggin Doc’s setup and maybe the metra connectors will be enough to ease my worries. Thanks to the both of you for the replies. I’ll look into it after I address my rear bumper needs (really— rear bumper wants)


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Definitely appreciate you taking the time to explain! All that wiring sounds too complicated for my skill level when it comes to electrical work though . If for any reason my radiator goes out, I might dip my toes back into this pool. Do you have a write up for the install?


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Sancho, I didn't document a ton of the install because it was part of a much larger under taking. I replaced the engine (longer story), added the UCON, 7th injector, larger injectors, headers, supercharger pulley upgrades, s/c idler pulley replacements, cam gears, intercooler reservoir upgrade, and upgraded charging system and wiring upgrade....all at the same time. I was ready to just have the FJ back on the road... I do have a few pictures and rudimentary wiring diagram that I can post up. That should be enough to give a really clear picture of the scope of work. For the wiring portion of the project... I was inspired by Bodenzord's blog on his wiring projects. Really got educated and I must say, while a bit complex, this makes complicated projects soooooo easy to pull together. I simply laid out a schematic, determined which wires were in the same run, trimmed them to length, terminated one end, and secured with techflex until the other end was ready for termination.

Here's a couple of links to his work....its really amazing: DIY Bussmann RTMR Fuse Block, Part 1 ? Introduction | Bodenzord
2015 Toyota Tacoma Build ? Big-3 Upgrade | Bodenzord


This is really neat! I've been wanting to clean up the engine bay. I used a dual Fan controller before but along the lines that it only turned on 100% based on the desired temp, so I would have one wired to come on at 170 and one at 190+. Usually if I'm not in a rush, there's no issues with spikes but if I was running hot and stalled, the fans would be on while trying to crank. I like what you're telling me though. I just realized several other companies have a PWM similar to what you were mentioning. Are you using a particular brand that you can recommend? It's been a long time since I've looked up e-fan technology and a lot has changed in controllers.

This will definitely be added to the list..
@isancho if and when you do, several companies make the controller. You would install the fans and tap radiator hose for coolant/engine temp. Then wire the control box for fans and one for A/C relay(? I haven't done this but assuming from DocME's post). I think it's more difficult than it sounds.. but getting a proper shrouded fan to the radiator like Doc's setup is the most important in how it'll pull the air.
For the PWM controllers, my favorite is Autocoolguy. https://www.autocoolguy.com/ That's what I went with. I have a no buzz 100, but honestly I would have been good with the 50 as my fans only pull 20 amps at full tilt and the pwm is essentially a soft start that does limit the end rush current on startup. I would NOT buy one of the Derale or Spal PWM controllers at this point in time. Some thought that should be looked into is some fans that spal introduced recently. They released a BRUSHLESS PWM fan that has the controller integrated into the fan. The install is super easy and straight forward provided that you have a shroud. The fans are hard to find, as I believe that they are intended for OEMs in the recreational industry. https://www.spalautomotive.it/brushless

Also, one guy on the TW forum adapted an FJ shroud to a mark 4 electric fan and used an Autocool guy controller. Looked like it fit up pretty well.

G'Day Doc,
That is a sweet set up ...very sexy...well done.

A few years back I spoke to Dirty Deeds about an dual E fan set up, but on their advise didn't pursue it.
But I did end up doing a simple setup - putting a push fan in front of the Rad, that I manually control / cabin switch. Only need it when slow crawling to force more air thru.
No where near as uber cool or effective as a dual E fan set up like yours, still it works, coupled with hood louvers, helps move air past the engine.

cheers
Baz
:blueblob:
Thanks Baz. There's a lot of different ways to get up the mountain, that's for sure. I think the auxiliary fan is good fix for the short comings of the clutch fan and manual control is pretty convenient. For the supercharged guys, the space in front of the radiator and condenser is really cluttered with the auxiliary low temperature radiator for the intercooler system and a pusher fan is going to be hard to fit in there. Actually that was another pro to the electric radiator fans, they actually pull more air through the radiator AND the intercooler, which is great for those hot days and heat soak.
 

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Been too busy having fun with Pablo, the FJ, as my buddies call it. Name came from after the air dam install... said to look like a mustache. Anyway:

1. Finally got around to installing the diff drop kit, I think the CV angle is much improved.
2. Mounted Maxsa recovery tracks with some custom fab'ed mounts.
3. Mounted the RhinoRack Batwing Awning, then re-did the mounting set up... then re-did it again.
4. Finished the tool boxes, just need paint. Made them with very tight tolerances to I didn't use rails.
5. Sourced out hardware (flanged class 10.9 bolts and extra large grade 8 washers) and installed use OEM sliders.
6. Replaced passenger front ABS cable and cleared code... (lift install complication, oops! :boohoo:).
6. Figured out how to post pictures not upside down, I think. :roller:

Next up is UCAs. Took a 1500 mile road trip and was a tad bit squirrelly on the highway... I'm blaming the little bit of caster alignment issues post-lift and not the insane amount of wind. At least that's my excuse for buying more things!

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2. Mounted Maxsa recovery tracks with some custom fab'ed mounts.
That's a Warrior Products Platform rack, yeah? It won't be long before I'll be wanting to mount some traction boards to mine. It's good to see a simple u-bolt+bracket+long-bolt set-up will get the job done.
 

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That's a Warrior Products Platform rack, yeah? It won't be long before I'll be wanting to mount some traction boards to mine. It's good to see a simple u-bolt+bracket+long-bolt set-up will get the job done.
Yes, love the WP rack! Depending on which boards you get (how well they stack and final thickness) you can use a long bolt. Longest I found was 5" but this was not long enough for me... (insert joke here). The Maxsa boards don't stack up as well as something like the Maxtrax.

I ended up buying 3' of 5/16" threaded rod and cut each piece to size. Ended up with 7 1/4" per "bolt".
The U-Bolts are 5/16" x 1 3/8" x 2 1/4".
The steel bracket is cut from 1/8" x 1 1/2" weld steel.
The knob nuts are from Lowe's, obviously in 5/16".

Eventually I will take down the bolts and drill them out for cotter pins as the knobs don't really "tighten down" on the tracks, they snug up to them but the more you twist them on the more the boards flex down (as they should). I didn't lose the knobs on the road after 1500 miles but I think for safety I'll add pins later on or think of a way to secure the knobs.
 

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Eventually I will take down the bolts and drill them out for cotter pins as the knobs don't really "tighten down" on the tracks, they snug up to them but the more you twist them on the more the boards flex down (as they should). I didn't lose the knobs on the road after 1500 miles but I think for safety I'll add pins later on or think of a way to secure the knobs.
I've constructed mounts for my hi-lift, axe, and shovel using odds and ends from Lowe's, but I'm also concerned about the wingnuts backing off by themselves with a little help from road vibration. The hi-lift is mounted with 5/16 bolts, so I could drill out holes for cotter pins on those. But the axe and shovel are mounted on 1/4 bolts. I'm not sure I could drill holes in those without a press. I've been thinking about using rubber grommets/gaskets (or something similar) after the wingnuts. :thinkerg:
 
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@FJFool can you drill a hole in the wing nuts and safety wire them?


wingnut.png

IMG_0813.jpg

I didn't safetywire, no flex, the wingnuts come up pretty tight.
 

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Nylock wing nuts
Didn't know they made them. Good idea, I use a set of water pumps anyway to tighten and loosen...
 
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HiLifts are evil... and grossly overrated.

Best day ever was when I took that rusty farmer's jack off my rack (HiLift Extreme). Replaced with hydraulic jack stand (UniJack), smaller, safer, far superior to operate on the trail or in the garage, and stows inside. I will usually pick it over my floor jack, one operation to lift and lock on stand-secure.

For camp entertainment ask a HiLift fan to demonstrate winching with a dogging chain using a HiLift.

Save the HiLift for mending fences, what it was intended for (and ridiculous YouTube training videos).
 

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Added a sPOD se 8 switch w/ touch screen, and 5 Extreme LED stacker lights, 2 amber and three spots. Should have gone with a flood light in ther, but guess I have something new to mod later. Doing moog front LCAs this weekend too, got the front end clunk.
 

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Finally finished my custom shovel and axe mount. Only cost me around 50 bucks and seems very secure. Testing for security and wind noise tomorrow.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8K4ANljjMYJu5nS6ESp8qOemRXsrtrsy1QbvhsTTK6yuHiZR7eYgYtpSABQDUSDlbfOH1SvRILr2Glwlxel-ENK1pTZOtVt5MEbhTcMUIxZi9r4bhw-0LX8U6ytrQ0TFwrbk0zfEnD_MGekMHwfnluvBWubfzBLigWkLB4gN8LLc85qRg7yk1GnP-W1JvwOIvDFmBrFO5JqQGE45KAQo_LkxmVfdwtopfOF4VRkufE-gWsFKsDabo3lkWv6mPhA1zIOu0qn4qW7SRtnM7IbWnBwDDj_a1hMtJCuXeipmiCpjgDLCmNJi2HI8KhIR5KlBil38OgZ2vKBhPcr9h5quGuCAJw8PE4qxNg-s2VRCizL_GUt5KYZovHVpCdT90LkWVUchFQJgl2K5lBfg6yCNSQJDxNHAU5chiaOMJVAO1saCX6ZmX6ozpA4CTMP9mNGN2gqIR5YcZqrWzn3mjnn6g_aafZjDBwcekNPJjHK-OS5JJrRmKqotc5J3AQ6rop28RYrHVjyTDcn6gQ4mwhn0Z0Z6d4mbmR42JMAPwuWAnZYd0sq4B77V1ElRCFRsTIIQr46eYbKvNhbkc8oL8AWmH2OfhShe8Ko7ga6GdgaGpdrIOY4ENoy5oXq2M_kkaCS_s8RX-eSQYhm70FMPxfg9sgNurxLkNi4=w518-h887-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IkYOGvlD-vgHmMNZViJXPlNmaya0T3y72mrVWk76Ktoy5ckvsT2r4AmRYTIH2Q2k-afChKyFjo9N4_4jrdFMO9XfjNvMxv315EMt3DgQDuOeTDbRYBjnQm1OKj_MNMA_h-3wIbtdmF9Jqq9c-HJTkOggX4D_EnNWEy4mY9lt80GfMJFvcVYrlo5I8nn0ZihQMcrH_zHw6cZu4jS0qgF8lKLvWVY2xjpiyi6knVZ0sWUxAr8D7lXLSqICWcwFP3rUPbtfEwh_Rer0oGBrCEAvmz5hyXcfzFyHHh9bV9hkcQtqcFI5lx7AQh0TXepc8rpAHYwuMUFeDmQ-Il8nYtvVxxQXd7QfZG_I7uE8Ji2NgMY9g6BEwri8JLBtkGiB69PW9Q0tzZ67BJ3caOd7tnO9fXDhhg1e62cjeDlgRkmUK4Zp0DZqwQz6wiyzGuWwuLpoNOidcwIhNBH8B9CRg3jWqLkf8FDz1T_geBFQIiX8mtWYWcVOc9vSvFpr4YTu58kNa8YfkzLrZYHZn0_T9lr4VV_dQSJOdCRiubG3PSRPwZez-mvkbfKzmATa--6ZnKIlA5k-1PFWMFxherIJk_uUYp_BSihReM3ygVNQQUGrHlZQAe5bdWHkC1hCIss_fZC1uJm_g1hvD2ZOcURhMdEBvscTMepJrCE=w521-h887-no
 

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@FJFool can you drill a hole in the wing nuts and safety wire them?


View attachment 1081104

View attachment 1081106

I didn't safetywire, no flex, the wingnuts come up pretty tight.

The batteries in the aircraft that I've worked on were held in by two drilled wingnuts. Instead of safety wire they had a long thin spring that hooked in the holes. Very quick and easy to install/remove.
 

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HiLifts are evil... and grossly overrated.



Best day ever was when I took that rusty farmer's jack off my rack (HiLift Extreme). Replaced with hydraulic jack stand (UniJack), smaller, safer, far superior to operate on the trail or in the garage, and stows inside. I will usually pick it over my floor jack, one operation to lift and lock on stand-secure.



For camp entertainment ask a HiLift fan to demonstrate winching with a dogging chain using a HiLift.



Save the HiLift for mending fences, what it was intended for (and ridiculous YouTube training videos).
I dunno, my hilift has gotten me out of the sh1t more times than I can count. Pop-offs, stuck down to the frame rails... hilift & maxtrax - what a combo.
 

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...
2. Mounted Maxsa recovery tracks with some custom fab'ed mounts...
Love the tracks mounts :bigthumb:

Did you purposely color match to the rig, or did it just work out that way? Just wondering if I'm the only one who does crap like that :smile

Dan
 
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