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It's not real. It's my parents Lexus ES. I think the caliper is off or something. Never had that happen so I'll take a look tomorrow. This is why I don't get to work on my FJ lol. By the way there are 5x150 conversions to Tundra axles. Advantages are larger CV and rear end. I wouldn't say it's a hub conversion but rather front subframe and rear axle replacement work to fit stock 4link.
Much like the gremlins, it appears that I should not be allowed out past midnight.

Tundra suspension conversion could be an interesting adventure. I see some googling in my future.
 

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Sitting in the waiting room like an expectant father. She’s getting the windshield replaced. Ended up going through insurance since I haven’t replaced one yet myself. I really don’t like letting other people work on my vehicles even if they do know what they are doing.

Well, at least there’s an 80% chance of rain today.


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Make sure they dont brake any clios from you cow panel when they remove the windshield. I had mine replaced and the clips broke off so my cow panel felow off. Whatca pain this is

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Make sure they dont brake any clios from you cow panel when they remove the windshield. I had mine replaced and the clips broke off so my cow panel felow off. Whatca pain this is

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What he said. For my next windshield replacement, I am going to take all of the cowl panels and windshield wipers off before i take it to the windshield shop and replace them myself when I get it back.
 

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Is there an instructional to take the cowl off without breaking the clips -here on the forum?

I have a snorkel and also was wondering if there was room enough for a windshield replacement with the snorkel in place with side panel removed/ unscrewed ??

Mike
 

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I always work on the assumption that all plastic clips are single use only. If they come off undamaged and reusable - bonus. The nature of the beast is they stretch/distort at best or break at worst. If you value what they hold on then cheap insurance to just replace them
 

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Is there an instructional to take the cowl off without breaking the clips -here on the forum?

I have a snorkel and also was wondering if there was room enough for a windshield replacement with the snorkel in place with side panel removed/ unscrewed ??

Mike
I can't access it right now because YouTube is blocked at work (nerds) but if you search FJ windshield replacement there is one video that goes into pretty good detail on cowl panel removal.

I would get some extra clips anyway - not breaking a clip when removing these is a herculean feat.
 

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I'm still working on the "cow panel"...... my mind is all a flutter with possibilities!



The guy who did the repair, for Safelite, was a Toyota master tech before moving to the window game. He did a great job, the top piece was replaced and he used new clips on the cowl panel. I got to watch the whole process and its pretty simple if you know what you're doing and have the tools. I'm pleased with the attention he gave to the repair. I'd almost feel comfortable letting him, specifically him, touch the innards of the FJ.

Before I took off the A pillar covers, I ordered a box of misc Toyota clips. Having taken off panels from pretty much every car I've owned, I knew I'd need clips. In looking at the top piece of trim that was taken off, the clips broke off, I'm pretty convinced that a healthy glob of liquid nails would hold it on. Might make it a little difficult to remove now that I think about it...
 

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My alternator voltage booster (fuse) came in from HKB Electronics yesterday.

7.5AMBF.jpg

When I installed it the battery voltage was 11.88, FJ had been sitting and the ODBII module was plugged in. I've since decided to remove the adapter and unplug the dash cam before letting her sit.

Installed the fuse (50/50 chance is no chance) and it was backwards. Installed again and started. Voltage went up to 14.57. Before installing the fuse was 13.95. Both taken at fast idle at startup. Never seen it over 14.0 that I can recall.

On Torque Pro using the voltage from the 'control module' I get approx. 2.5 volts lower than the reading at the battery.

Need a nice ride now to see if the battery gets fully charged..

Used my trusty Tek 916.

IMG_0119.jpg
 

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My alternator voltage booster (fuse) came in from HKB Electronics yesterday.

View attachment 1081750

When I installed it the battery voltage was 11.88, FJ had been sitting and the ODBII module was plugged in. I've since decided to remove the adapter and unplug the dash cam before letting her sit.

Installed the fuse (50/50 chance is no chance) and it was backwards. Installed again and started. Voltage went up to 14.57. Before installing the fuse was 13.95. Both taken at fast idle at startup. Never seen it over 14.0 that I can recall.

On Torque Pro using the voltage from the 'control module' I get approx. 2.5 volts lower than the reading at the battery.

Need a nice ride now to see if the battery gets fully charged..

Used my trusty Tek 916.

View attachment 1081752

I haven't heard of Tek in a long time. My father worked there for many years when we were living in Battle Ground.
 

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I haven't heard of Tek in a long time. My father worked there for many years when we were living in Battle Ground.
The Tek is a good DMM but no one supports it anymore. I had a good Fluke but gave it to my son.

All my scopes have been Tek. I still have a TDS 320. Don't use it much anymore.
 
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Is there an instructional to take the cowl off without breaking the clips -here on the forum?

I have a snorkel and also was wondering if there was room enough for a windshield replacement with the snorkel in place with side panel removed/ unscrewed ??

Mike
I have a Safari Snorkel and have had the windshield replaced. I removed the wipers and all surrounding panels except for the roof panel. the bracket that attaches the snorkel to the passenger (Left hand Drive) side A pillar cover is easy to unbolt and there is room to remove the cover. The windshield can be replaced without removing the snorkel itself. Window guy did the new roof cover which needs to be glued, I replaced the rest using new clips.
 

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Installed factory tow hitch. Well after a cluster yuk. I got it on but had a curt hitch on at the time that was seriously over torked. After fighting that for a bit i did what any 55 year old back yard mechanic would do. I cut off the tubing part and left the brakets for now. Put some BG penetrating oil and will try again in a couple days.

Meanwhile i installed the new hitch torked the bolts to spec and tossed the bumper cover back on. Then installed the new factory tow wiring.
I intend to put a trailer break in next.
I still managed to get all that done in about a hour and a half so felt good about it. Being that I'm disabled (right ankle replaced 2x) i have a hard time getting up and down anymore. But i refuse to pay something else for something i know i can do myself.
 

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Evaporator core replaced by local shop... that was spendy. As seen in other threads on the forum, entire dash pulled out, etc. Had them do the heater core while they were in there.

They seem to have done a good job, no new rattles, squeaks or other issues with the dash, etc that I can see after install and nice and cool for now (will continue to watch it).
 

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