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I gotta get my '12 TT into the autoglass shop to fix the top windshield panel bc it vibrates at certain wind directions. Any advice you can offer me to tell them so they don't eff it up and make it worse?
Yes talk with the installer before hand to confirm the following:
  • Experience with FJs. The local Toyota dealership recommended this shop and indicated they use them exclusively for FJs.
  • Replace the top windshield molding with a new one and new clips. This is important because all the leak stories indicated the top molding was reused and trying to seal with caulking. I was surprised they were able to order a new radiant red one so fast, they indicated they went through the local Toyota dealership to obtain a new piece.
  • Make sure they replace all the clips for the cowl mounts with new ones. Those clips typically break and cannot be reused.
  • FYI if not covered by insurance, it could cost up to $1,200 to be done properly. I knew this in advance and upgraded my insurance coverage when the FJ was new.
  • If you are only trying to address the top molding from vibrating, try a bead of silicone at the seam between the molding and glass. I did that a long time ago and it held up for years. The wind vibration noise was really bad on the highway, especially with cross winds.
Hope this helps. I will confirm all is good after the next big rain event; knock on wood!
 
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I gotta get my '12 TT into the autoglass shop to fix the top windshield panel bc it vibrates at certain wind directions. Any advice you can offer me to tell them so they don't eff it up and make it worse?

@Zed 71
I had this issue in my ‘07 and I had to take it to safelite 3 times to get it fixed properly. If they use a cheap aftermarket part it doesn’t always sit correctly, so it doesn’t seal with the windshield, which creates the vibration and can lead to the wind shearing the trim piece off. Tell them to replace all the clips (instead of reusing the old ones) and get an actual Toyota OEM part.
 

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Thanks, guys!
 

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1164578

"Custom" strap to hold that stupid canister in place until I find a permanent solution. The tabs rusted and broke.
 

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2013 FJ Army Green MT
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I work so I can pay for what I had done over the past two days to my FJ, installed sound dampening in floors, wheel wells, firewall, doors, roof and around the Audio+ sub woofer, a previous upgrade. URD short shifter installed and I couldn't be happier. Next up is the OME lift and snorkel, just have not decided on what snorkel yet, seen a pretty cool one out of Israel I think it was.
 

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I work so I can pay for what I had done over the past two days to my FJ, installed sound dampening in floors, wheel wells, firewall, doors, roof and around the Audio+ sub woofer, a previous upgrade. URD short shifter installed and I couldn't be happier. Next up is the OME lift and snorkel, just have not decided on what snorkel yet, seen a pretty cool one out of Israel I think it was.
How much work was it to do the floors? I generally park my FJ during the week, and beat it up on the weekends. Wondering if the sound deadening could be done after work over a few days.
 

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2013 FJ Army Green MT
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How much work was it to do the floors? I generally park my FJ during the week, and beat it up on the weekends. Wondering if the sound deadening could be done after work over a few days.
2 days for all the work I noted, probably one day for just the floors. I bought 50 sq ft KilMat and shop used all of it and some of what they had on hand.
 

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I have the front wheels off. Investigating an intermittent shaking/ pulsating when braking. Rotors are true. No play in anything that I can detect. Brake temps are even side to side after driving.
This happens more now than it did. Also a pulsation when rolling to a stop. But not at wheel rotation speed.

hmmm
 

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I have the front wheels off. Investigating an intermittent shaking/ pulsating when braking. Rotors are true. No play in anything that I can detect. Brake temps are even side to side after driving.
This happens more now than it did. Also a pulsation when rolling to a stop. But not at wheel rotation speed.

hmmm
I had a similar issue and it turned out to be bad LCA bushings. After replacing the LCAs, the issue was resolved. Might be worth taking a flashlight and inspecting the bushings.
 
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I have the front wheels off. Investigating an intermittent shaking/ pulsating when braking. Rotors are true. No play in anything that I can detect. Brake temps are even side to side after driving.
This happens more now than it did. Also a pulsation when rolling to a stop. But not at wheel rotation speed.

hmmm
I have the exact same thing happening right now. I`ve got new inner and outer tie rods that are going to get installed this week. I will check the rest of the suspension. I have new LCA`s and ball joints, new CV axles, and new sway bar links. I will put on the new tie rods and all that will be left to do is replacing the uniball in my All Pro UCA`s. That should make the entire front end new unless i`m not thinking of something right now.
 
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