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Well I changed the oil and filter today. While I was under there I noticed the drivers side CV axle boot is totally trashed. I just put these things on about two years ago.. I rebuilt my originals so I have them I just have to do the job again. So looks like my list of have to dos is still getting longer.

I sent an email to Cardone to see if they have a replacement boot for my axle. It has less than 10K miles. Never hurts to ask. I`m curious to see if they get back to me.
 

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Today I changed the brake fluid as fully as I could. I'd been having the Toyota dealer change the brake fluid every 3 years along with one of the engine oil changes as one of their seemingly low priced "standard services" but I recently found out that they are only doing a reservoir fluid change and not bleeding the fluid through the calipers until fresh. With my FJ now 9.5 years from its production date, I felt it was time to do it right, and I would have to do it myself. It turns out that they charge real money to do the full job.

I bought 4 bottles of Toyota DOT3 brake fluid since they only had the smaller bottles in stock, and got a cup of really nice, fresh ground, Toyota coffee. The Toyota dealer is a lot closer to my home than the parts stores so it ends up being cheaper to use Toyota brake fluid instead of driving across town.

First I pressed the pedal about 20 times with the key off until the pedal was soft to return more fluid to the reservoir from the accumulator. I used a 60ml syringe with a piece of 1/16" clear silicon tubing to suck out most of the brake fluid from the reservoir. Pointing the tube forward allowed it to get fairly deep in here. Then I refilled the reservoir to the max mark with fresh fluid and turned the key to on to run the pump which pulls in some of the new fluid. The level drops about 5mm.

Next I did the procedure for bleeding the brake booster and accumulator pump to cycle the fluid back and forth from the reservoir to the accumulator 5 times. Then I bled the front brakes in the conventional manner but with the key set to on. Turning the steering wheel to full lock on each side made it easy to reach the caliper bleed screws without removing the wheels. I used a vacuum bleeder for the front calipers since I didn't have a helper today which worked well. I pulled about 4 fluid oz (~120ml) through each front caliper. Make sure to have a good vacuum drawn before opening the bleeder and maintain the vacuum above 10inHg until after the bleeder is closed.

Then I put a dowel between the seat and the brake pedal to hold the brake pedal pushed, turned on the key, and bled the rear brakes which is very easy since the fluid pump comes on when you open the bleeder screw and pumps the fluid quickly. I pumped about 1 cup (250ml) out each rear caliper, topping up the reservoir regularly. Finally I followed the fluid level check from step 5 of the attached PDF to set the fluid level to max after pumping the pedal 20 times with the key off.

I don't have the Toyota tester to cycle the solenoids to bleed the master cylinder solenoids from step 4, but I think that enough fluid was flushed through the system, and the fluid looked pretty good to start with. Any remaining used fluid should mix in eventually. Maybe I can find somewhere to exercise the A-TRAC to cycle the solenoids.

Then I took quick test drive before the rain started and noted the firmer feeling brake pedal.

Hopefully this exercise will prevent sticking caliper pistons or master cylinder failures in the future. The FJ was actually easier than most of the other vehicles that I've done brake fluid changes on since it is easy to reach the caliper bleeders with the wheels on, no need to jack it up or use ramps either.
 

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Installed OEM front rotors with Akebono ACT976 pads. Bought my FJ last month and the brakes pulsated slightly during braking.
With other vehicles, I have had some luck with getting rid of the pulsating, without spending money, by lightly sanding both friction surfaces of the rotor with fine emery cloth until an even matte finish, cleaning the brake pads with brake cleaner and a small brush, then re-doing the bedding in procedure. Often the rotors aren't actually warped, just uneven pad material transfer or contamination. Of course replace if the parts are damaged or worn out.
 
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With other vehicles, I have had some luck with getting rid of the pulsating, without spending money, by lightly sanding both friction surfaces of the rotor with fine emery cloth until an even matte finish, cleaning the brake pads with brake cleaner and a small brush, then re-doing the bedding in procedure. Often the rotors aren't actually warped, just uneven pad material transfer or contamination. Of course replace if the parts are damaged or worn out.
The rotors looked like they needed to be resurfaced so I decided it was just wise to replace them. This is the first set of Akebono pads I’ve tried. I’m hoping they are as good as many have raved about.
 

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2007 Metallic Sliver FJ, Auto, 285/70/17 STT Pro’s, 3inch Bilstein OME lift SPC upper control arms.
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I needed bass😩 so I installed a 12 inch JBL Sub with amp I also replaced The door speakers with a set of JBL GTO 939 6x9s.
I kept my factory Head unit. As I play my music from my IPhone through the Aux.
Plus I really like how the FJammer head unit looks in the FJ.
Now I can feel my music 🎶 again 🙂.
Definitely should have done this upgrade sooner really enjoying the new listing experience.
Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Bumper
Motor vehicle Automotive design Steering part Steering wheel Gear shift
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I changed out my drivers side cv axel this morning. Not a hard job. I forgot I put 1 inch spacers on a few months back. I went out and took the wheel off and was like crap I have to take the damn spacer off to get to the axel nut. It probly took a hour and a half to get it done. :)
 

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2010 FJ - SB M1 Bumpers | SB XRC Winch | OME 3" lift | Black Rhino wheels | Baja Rack | TRD CAI
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5 tire rotation, Yota Liners and body mount chop.
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