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2011 FJ TT. 5AT
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New to the FJ but not Toyota’s. I’ve owned pickups for over 20 years, now that I have an FJ, I wish I would have bought one sooner.
Cleaning out the cubby in the back, where the jack goes was this cover to what I assume is an access plate of some sort. Would anyone be able to point me to its home? It has 610 stamped on it.
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Automotive lighting Automotive tire Grey Font Gas
 

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You'll see where it goes, IF you still have the original underside engine cover that hasn't already rusted into pieces and flakes by now.
 

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2011 FJ TT. 5AT
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10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you to everyone who replied, I’ve only had it a week…but I can’t stop driving it! I’m slowing cleaning areas. The dealership that I bought it from did change the oil and all the filters. They put 5w20 in which the manual says is allowed but it must go back to 0w20 at the next change. I’ve ordered a filter..(I have a case for my RAV4 and Tacoma (sold) and two cases of oil ) but the filters are not the same. I will change the oil once the filters ( I buy Toyota brand) get here. I plan to go through the engine compartment and clean and examine things in greater detail than I did prior to buying. I usually do most of my own maintenance.
 

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You'll just LOVE the oil filter setup. :rolleyes: It's a canister, not a spin on and it's made of thermoplastic, easy to break if you're heavy handed, unless the previous owner already replaced it. What a lot of people have done here with their later model FJ's is to buy the aluminum canister housing for a Toyota Venza and then swap out the spring valve inside from the original plastic to the aluminum one since the Venza's is the wrong length. Link below. I also like to buy the TRD version of the filter that goes inside. It's more expensive, but I think it better than just the paper one that's normally specified.

 

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2011 FJ TT. 5AT
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yes, my Tacoma and the RAV4 have the same setup, I already have the special tool to remove them…I bought the aluminum piece for my Tacoma…the plastic one can really expand and get tight when it is warm….Unfortunately the FJ takes a filter that is a little taller than the one for the Tacoma and RAV4, so I had to buy one…I was buying them by the case…they will jot go to waste…but it will take a while for the RAV4 to use them all….
 

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Disregard the '0W-20' oil viscosity recommendation in the Owner's Manual - that's a government-mandated note related to the original fuel economy qualification testing. 0W-20 oil provides minimal film strength for high-speed or higher ambient temperature conditions.

To achieve the best possible CAFE fuel consumption ratings, Toyota used extremely low viscosity engine oil (0W-20), low viscosity transmission fluid (Type WS), extremely conservative transmission shift programming, etc,. etc.

For FJ Cruisers sold in all other parts of the world that don't have to meet US CAFE fuel consumption requirements, with exactly the same 1GR-FE engine, oil viscosities as high as 15W-40 are recommended in the Owner's Manuals.

For almost all of the continental USA, 10W-30 synthetic oil is ideal for achieving maximum engine life. If you see consistent winter temperatures of below freezing for several months, 5W-20 or 5W-30 is appropriate.

Here's the oil viscosity chart for a 2020 FJ as sold in the GCC:

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2011 FJ TT. 5AT
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So after looking….one bolt is out and one is snapped off…I’m assuming that the go through the back side and was rusted in place…therefore the access plate was “relocated” to the rear jack storage area…if I drop the skid plate…I might be able to use heat and vice grips to remove the remaining stud and chase the threads and fins replacement bolts….over all the skid plate looks like it is still solid. Surface rust but no big flakes.
 
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