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It's time for new tires, and I'm looking at a few options to do while I'm getting new tires for the alignment. I have a 2007 TRD with the TRD rims, 3" Toytec lift (I believe so... was on there when I bought it), and 315/75 16 (35's) Mickey Thompson ATZ's. The 35's rub on the UCA's and body when I turn sharp, and the back looks slightly higher than the front. So while doing this process, I figured I better do all I can to fix these probs. Was considering putting a small top hat spacer, perhaps 1", on the front struts (not a coil spacer) and wheel spacers to push those wheels out a little bit to help. I'm writing this to ask if this is a bad idea? Do I even have enough adjustment to compensate for the camber when re-aligning my FJ? And what are some recommended spacer, and spacer size would work well for me? Thanks guys
 

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It's time for new tires, and I'm looking at a few options to do while I'm getting new tires for the alignment. I have a 2007 TRD with the TRD rims, 3" Toytec lift (I believe so... was on there when I bought it), and 315/75 16 (35's) Mickey Thompson ATZ's. The 35's rub on the UCA's and body when I turn sharp, and the back looks slightly higher than the front. So while doing this process, I figured I better do all I can to fix these probs. Was considering putting a small top hat spacer, perhaps 1", on the front struts (not a coil spacer) and wheel spacers to push those wheels out a little bit to help. I'm writing this to ask if this is a bad idea? Do I even have enough adjustment to compensate for the camber when re-aligning my FJ? And what are some recommended spacer, and spacer size would work well for me? Thanks guys
Wheel spacers will help with the UCA rub, but will worsen the body mount rub. You definitely need a body mount chop if you're running 35s. I just got a full set of Spidertrax, which are considered the wheel spacers for the FJ. I know All-Pro makes some as well, and I believe people have had good results. I've hard bad things about cheap Chinese/knock-off brand spacers.

If your lift is a true 3" (take some pictures and send them to Toytec or post here, someone will know for sure) then you should not add a top spacer. From everything I've read the front IFS can not handle more than a 3" lift, maybe 3.5" if you have a diff drop. If you're looking for more lift without going 6" you can look into a body lift. Will give you more room in the fenders for the 35s, and they come in 1" to 1.5" and are independent of your suspension lift height.

I would strongly recommend new UCAs, I have the Light Racing UCAs. They will provide additional clearance for the 35s (may not need spacers, aftermarket UCAs don't stick out as far as stock arms) and will allow gain you enough positive caster to get the alignment back in spec. They are generally around $400-$450, and I think MetalTech may be having a sale on them. If you have a larger budget there are lots of options. I don't believe camber is greatly affected by a lift.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have heard great things about the Spidertrax wheel spacers. So if I get those and do the body mount chop, you think I will be okay? I wanted to add just a tiny bit of front lift, but if you think it's a bad idea, then I won't. I'm in college so I don't exactly have the biggest budget, but would love to replace my LCA's and UCA's maybe sometime this summer. But for now I need a quick solution
 

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Yep, should be fine, though alignment will still be off. But if it's not bothering you too much you'll be fine, shouldn't cause uneven wear since it should just be the caster.

Post up a pic of the front suspension. Possible that it's only a 2-2.5" lift and you have some room to play with.

The LCAs don't really need replacing. Only company I know of that offers them is Total Chaos, and they are $1400+ for the set. Not too many people replace the LCAs unless they go LT.

Nice to see another college student on here :cheers: I've had mine since I started 4 years ago and will be graduating in May and finally have some money to put into it. I've got a very good base right now for what I need, just has taken me a while to get there. But it's well worth it :cheers:


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Adding more lift won't stop you from rubbing, contrary to what a lot of folks on here believe (with respect to 3" lifts. If you rub with a 2.0" lift, you will rub with a 3.0" lift.

By lifting you are not changing the range of travel just changing the ride height slightly.

If you are rubbing the body, you have two options really: body lift or lowering your bump stops.
You also want the tires as close to the UCAs as possible without rubbing if you are running a large tire. Spacers, as mentioned above, put you further away from the UCA but also closer to the body mount. Aftermarket UCA do not sit out as close to the tire as the stock ones do. A lot of folks can get away with just UCA and no spacers with a large tire.
 

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I'm with Layton, see if aftermarket UCAs will solve your problem first. These will give you more clearance at the UCA itself, and also give you enough adjustability to keep your alignment in spec for camber and toe. Have the alignment guys crank your caster up between 4 and 5 degrees since this will move your front wheels forward (away from the body mount/mud flap area).

Are you actually rubbing at the body mount, or up in the fender?
 

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Layonnn is right more lift will only delay the rubbing issue, not fix it. Adding in a top hat spacer to a 3" lift is a bad idea, you CV angles will be pretty harsh. That being said if you have a lot of sag from added weight that you are trying to correct then you would be better served by replacing the spring with one that can handle the weight. You may currently have a taller spring and a spring spacer out back? causing your slight forward lean?

Adding 32mm(1.25") wheel spacers to stock wheels with 35" tires isn't ideal either. Small 35s are pretty optimal at 0 offset maybe even better at +5... you really need a smaller spacer, just enough to get you off of the upper control arm. This involves longer studs and slip on spacers.

Upper control arms that have the needed clearance might be easier or even cheaper, though i haven't found a thread that gives the necessary measurements to know what kind of clearance is gained by each brand.

The specific tire on your truck runs small, about as small as it gets for 35's which is probably the reason the previous owner bought them. They are easier to "fit" on an FJ than any other "35x12.5". Take a long hard look at the tire specs if you go with a different brand, you might be in for more BFH work than you bargained for.

Good Luck :bigthumb:
 

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you should look for more threads like this, fyi 16"x8" at 4"BS translates to about +12 offset stock is +15.

I am running 315/75-16" baja claw TTC's 34.6" tall 12.2" wide. I have 16x8" rims with 4" backspacing 3" lift front and rear. I have done an agressive body mount chop removed my mud flaps pushed my castor to positive 4.8 degrees. I also installed 2" bumpstop spacers on the rear.
Under hard wheeling I rub with the wheel at full lock on the front body seam and lower fender liner seam but not the body mount.

As for the rear i rubbed some at full compression on the body seam but a little hammer work that is ok.

On the road no worries do all the mall crawling I want. Do i think you will rub Yes Nittos are bigger yet.Go 6' lift no problems 3" you need to do your home work and alittle cutting or simply limt the suspension travel with longer bumpstops.:bigthumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I wanted to lift it a tad in the front just to make it ride level, or even a little cali-style. I don't know if these pictures will help, but it does show where I'm rubbing. I feel like if I were to use the spacers for a better stance and help with the rubbing, and lift it slightly I would like it and be satisfied. What I'm most worried about is uneven wear because I took it an alignment shop who did it wrong, and ultimately had to get my tires trued so save what little tread I had left and get a comfortable ride. I'm not the smartest on these type things, so what y'all say will definitely help. Just trying to make my rider look better and ride better.
 

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After market uca's will fix that problem. Look into light racing uca's that metal tech sells its what I have.

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Yeah, definitely try new UCAs before spacers. Will solve the UCA rubbing and alignment issues, and the LR are inexpensive (relatively). I just got spacers because I run 255s and wanted a wider stance, but 315s give you a pretty wide stance and spacers will cause large amounts of body rub.


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If you have a body mount chop then wheel spacers are gonna be nice, the UCA won't rub anymore but if you didn't do the chop, it'll just make things worse.

Your only choice is to either do the body mount chop which sure is cheaper than a new aftermarket extended travel uca.

If you're going for a UCA, look into light racing, camburg, total chaos.

They vary from $600-$900
 

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If you have a body mount chop then wheel spacers are gonna be nice, the UCA won't rub anymore but if you didn't do the chop, it'll just make things worse.

Your only choice is to either do the body mount chop which sure is cheaper than a new aftermarket extended travel uca.

If you're going for a UCA, look into light racing, camburg, total chaos.

They vary from $600-$900
The light racings are around 450 retail, and there are always group buys on them for less. MT just recently had a group buy on them for 375.
Wheel spacers will run you 200 bucks for a set of Spidertrax.

With aftermarket UCA you also gain the benefit of more range of adjustment to get the alignment back into factory spec if you are running a high lift up front.
 

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The light racings are around 450 retail, and there are always group buys on them for less. MT just recently had a group buy on them for 375.
Wheel spacers will run you 200 bucks for a set of Spidertrax.

With aftermarket UCA you also gain the benefit of more range of adjustment to get the alignment back into factory spec if you are running a high lift up front.
And a much more stable rig especially on highways :D.
 

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Adding more lift won't stop you from rubbing, contrary to what a lot of folks on here believe (with respect to 3" lifts. If you rub with a 2.0" lift, you will rub with a 3.0" lift.

By lifting you are not changing the range of travel just changing the ride height slightly.

If you are rubbing the body, you have two options really: body lift or lowering your bump stops.
You also want the tires as close to the UCAs as possible without rubbing if you are running a large tire. Spacers, as mentioned above, put you further away from the UCA but also closer to the body mount. Aftermarket UCA do not sit out as close to the tire as the stock ones do. A lot of folks can get away with just UCA and no spacers with a large tire.
This is super interesting. I just got some 285/65/18 Ridge Grapplers and my tires rub. I was counting on my OME 2.5" lift fixing that problem. Guess I'm wrong. The way you put it makes total sense. If I'm reading you correctly, you're saying that if you have rub, rub will be there no matter the lift. I guess I need to either go with a body mount chop or get some new UCAs. Question, what's the best way to find out where my tires are rubbing?
 

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This is super interesting. I just got some 285/65/18 Ridge Grapplers and my tires rub. I was counting on my OME 2.5" lift fixing that problem. Guess I'm wrong. The way you put it makes total sense. If I'm reading you correctly, you're saying that if you have rub, rub will be there no matter the lift. I guess I need to either go with a body mount chop or get some new UCAs. Question, what's the best way to find out where my tires are rubbing?
Since Layonn has not been on the forums in quite awhile I will try to assist. He is 100% correct. For those of us that offroad our FJ it's irrelevant how high we lift them in regards to tire rubbing. Let's pretend with a 3" lift 35's don't rub offroad. (over uneven terrain and stuffing a tire in the wheel well). If that is true then I can guarantee you the 35" tire will not rub with a 0" lift. Those that go offroad realize that the starting point of the suspension travel is the only thing that has changed with a lift. The tire still travels the same arc.

That said, people who drive their FJ's primarily on the street may say general statements like "with a 3" lift it won't rub on the street." Ok, but take it offroad and you may still have issues. That's what drives me nuts when people ask if "such and such size" tire will fit with a X amount a lift?

So yeah, if your 285/65/18 Ridge Grapplers rub at stock height, adding a lift will reduce/mask the issue on the street but it will definitely still rub if you go offroad. How much you're willing to live with is another question.
 
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