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I'm not sure if this has been answered before, I tried to search but nothing specific came up.

I recently went to the Trail Teams event in Big Bear and smacked my front stock skid with a rock.

I don't have a lot of money but want to start investing in some protection for my FJ's belly. Which skid is most important to have first? second? etc?

Also, which skids offer compatibilty with replacement front bumpers such as ARB, Demello, etc? I've heard some skids not fitting with certain bumpers.

As always I look for help from the guys who have the answers, and I'm sure many of you can help me with this.

Thanks in advance!

Anthony
 

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Great question IMHO. I was thinking along the exact same lines. It's also a weigh vs. protecton benefit question. I look forward to seeing the answers/opinions roll in on this one.
 

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A good place to start is the Skid Comparison thread.

But, most, if not all, use the stock bolt mount holes. There are some compatibility issues with a couple of the front bumpers and they are noted in the comparison thread. You will find that there is a great contingent (myself included) who are BIG Bud's fans. Its my opinion that you can't do better than his skids, front to back.

There have been some recent discussion with the addition of the Rasta skids related to weight. It is my opinion that the weight differences, being "static" are less of an issue than some propose. Static weight is is static weight, whether it is a skid plate, passenger, full tank of gas, two big dogs, etc.

In any case, their are many good choices available, I just prefer Bud's...
 

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Ive been running (testing) my polyethylene skids for a while now and would not hesitate to put them on any FJ, no matter how hard you wheel. ive had my 4500 lbs FJ perched, and sliding across with no problems. I do appreciate the weight reduction with the poly to the steel skids and also the alluminum ones. The hdpe skids weigh only 36lbs. they cover from the gas tank all the way up front to the radiator support and come with a
1 1/4 dia. .188 wall thickness steel crossmember support for the transfer case and can be made to acomodate any of the aftermarket bumpers. For sale very soon,,,,CAPT.
 

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If you cant buy the whole set at once then cover the most expensive and lowest hanging parts first. Since the motor is the pretty expensive to repair should a rock take out the oil pan that woiuld be my recommended first part to replace. The transmission is tucked up and out of the way, so that would be the last part of the drivetrain I'd do after the transfer case and exhaust crossover skid. As for what skids to use, thats personal preference - me, I prefer the All Pro units for these reasons:

Steel is stronger - All Pro uses steel and steel protects things. When was the last time you saw an aluminum or poly roll cage or bumper? Its also beefy, thick 7ga steel, unlike the thin soup can factory skids.

Minimalist approach - All Pro only covers whats in danger of being hurt. Since you're using heavier steel material, keep it to a minimum so you dont add unnecessary weight to the vehicle. This also means easier inspection and maintenance from underneath than a full frame-to-frame style skids that are adding extra weight protecting open space.

Easy bolt on design - the engine and transmission skids bolt on with no drilling or fabrication. The transfer case skid only requires drilling 2 holes. 3 Skids cover your entire drivetrain.

Clearance - All Pro skids tuck up as high as possible to give you the maximum amount of clearance under the vehicle. While a flat bellypan sounds good on paper, many drivetrain components are much higher than the frame. Following the contours of these components gives maximum clearance, especially important when running smaller 265-285 tires. If it isnt there, it cant get hung up & high centered.
 

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I'd start by getting the front skids first, mostly cuz that's the area that gets hit the most. Also i'd get the Bud builts or the all pro skid are equaly good. :cheers:
 
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