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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been longing to dump my 17" alloy "swiss cheese" OEM wheels and go to 16's since I need to replace the tires. I know it's hit or miss on which 16 inch wheels clear the calipers, but I've found several posts referring to the Mickey Thompson Classic III wheels that fit and I love the teardrop hole look. They make a 16X8 with 4.5 backspacing, zero offset, 106.6mm hub bore and a 6X5.5 hole pattern in satin black. I don't want to do a body lift or use spacers either, so will these work without modifications and are they hub centric? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 

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I got rid of my 17 rims for 16 rims. They fit but only clear the calipers by 1/4 inch or less. Not the brand your asking about but I feel a 16 rim is a 16 rim ( hopefully ) :)
 

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MOAB SUPERSTAR
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Love my 16s both for airing down (more rubber) and looks 👍 Method has lots of good wheel options in 16” that fit/work well with FJs. And I think they are doing a big Black Friday sale.
 

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Simple:
2 indentical FJs
1 with 17"
1 with 16"

You would not be able to tell which wether you are driving on 16s or 17s....even aired down.

Same goes for 285 vs 265....sure its a smidge wider but you couldn't tell which was which by performance.

Everyone gets hung up on the math. The theory is there but you'll never feel the effefts in real time.
 

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Simple:
2 indentical FJs
1 with 17"
1 with 16"

You would not be able to tell which wether you are driving on 16s or 17s....even aired down.

Same goes for 285 vs 265....sure its a smidge wider but you couldn't tell which was which by performance.

Everyone gets hung up on the math. The theory is there but you'll never feel the effefts in real time.
I thought the benefits for 16 was increased side wall for smoother ride. If both 17" and 16" are aired down to let's say 30 PSI, the 16"s still give you more sidewall for smother ride.

My assumption....if aired down even lower, the 16" will give you more of a footprint than the 17"
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm going for the look of 16's mostly, but offroading improvement is not out of the question. The FJ just looks better with smaller wheels and large tires. I really don't like the silly look of the OEM alloy 17's and even some black 17's would be better looking IMO.

debFJVT, I've also looked at Method Wheels and since they're having a sale, even better. PureFJCruiser has them currently at 15% off list. One is a 16X8 and the other is a 17X8.5, both with zero offset. The 17X9 has a -12mm offset. How would that change the look by the way, although it's not much? I gather none of these need any spacers or lifts of any kind to fit properly and not rub? And since the 17X9 is wider, some negative offset must be needed to avoid that. I also like their bead lock technology for better performance with less air in the tires.

If I go with a 16" wheel, what tires size would be needed so the speedo reads right (my math mind hasn't kicked in yet)? I also understand that if I were to purchase Method Wheels, I'd need new lug nuts to go with them as well?
 

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MOAB SUPERSTAR
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I'm going for the look of 16's mostly, but offroading improvement is not out of the question. The FJ just looks better with smaller wheels and large tires. I really don't like the silly look of the OEM alloy 17's and even some black 17's would be better looking IMO.

debFJVT, I've also looked at Method Wheels and since they're having a sale, even better. PureFJCruiser has them currently at 15% off list. One is a 16X8 and the other is a 17X8.5, both with zero offset. The 17X9 has a -12mm offset. How would that change the look by the way, although it's not much? I gather none of these need any spacers or lifts of any kind to fit properly and not rub? And since the 17X9 is wider, some negative offset must be needed to avoid that. I also like their bead lock technology for better performance with less air in the tires.

If I go with a 16" wheel, what tires size would be needed so the speedo reads right (my math mind hasn't kicked in yet)? I also understand that if I were to purchase Method Wheels, I'd need new lug nuts to go with them as well?
Yes you’d need new nuts, and agree their new bead grip technology is fantastic. However that limits the styles you can choose from, so if you‘re not planning to do more hardcore trails you will be fine airing down to 15psi plus having the wheels you like best for style. The 35” tires I’m running are 315/75/16, and had to do the BMC and other trimming for rubbing.n
 

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I'm going for the look of 16's mostly, but offroading improvement is not out of the question. The FJ just looks better with smaller wheels and large tires. I really don't like the silly look of the OEM alloy 17's and even some black 17's would be better looking IMO.

debFJVT, I've also looked at Method Wheels and since they're having a sale, even better. PureFJCruiser has them currently at 15% off list. One is a 16X8 and the other is a 17X8.5, both with zero offset. The 17X9 has a -12mm offset. How would that change the look by the way, although it's not much? I gather none of these need any spacers or lifts of any kind to fit properly and not rub? And since the 17X9 is wider, some negative offset must be needed to avoid that. I also like their bead lock technology for better performance with less air in the tires.

If I go with a 16" wheel, what tires size would be needed so the speedo reads right (my math mind hasn't kicked in yet)? I also understand that if I were to purchase Method Wheels, I'd need new lug nuts to go with them as well?
Watch this YouTube video, it will cover a lot of the questions you have:
 

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When I bought my FJ new in mid-2014, the first thing I did was install a set of Method MR305 NV's in 16 X 8, along with a set of US-made McGard spline-drive lug nuts and locks. I primarily wanted more tire sidewall for improved reduced-pressure footprint, but 'looks' was also a consideration.

Rubber is a set of 5 BFG load range E KO2s in 'stock' diameter 265-75R16. After ~ 60K miles, the tires have about 1/2 the original tread depth, have almost perfectly uniform wear across the tread face, and haven't shown any feathering, chunking, or any other unusual wear issues.

I went with the 'stock' 265 tire section because I thought that would allow room for tire chains, but when the tires were brand new at full left lock and moderate suspension compression they just barely contacted the rubber mud flap at the rear of the wheel well, so clearance for chains would have been iffy.

I'm 100% satisfied with these wheels, tires and lugnuts, and would do it again.

I run the E-load range tires at 46 PSI on the street and the ride is firm and stable, but you absolutely MUST air down to 18-20 PSI for anything but the smoothest dirt roads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
When I bought my FJ new in mid-2014, the first thing I did was install a set of Method MR305 NV's in 16 X 8, along with a set of US-made McGard spline-drive lug nuts and locks. I primarily wanted more tire sidewall for improved reduced-pressure footprint, but 'looks' was also a consideration.

Rubber is a set of 5 BFG load range E KO2s in 'stock' diameter 265-75R16. After ~ 60K miles, the tires have about 1/2 the original tread depth, have almost perfectly uniform wear across the tread face, and haven't shown any feathering, chunking, or any other unusual wear issues.

I went with the 'stock' 265 tire section because I thought that would allow room for tire chains, but when the tires were brand new at full left lock and moderate suspension compression they just barely left the slightest contact mark on the rubber mud flap at the rear of the wheel well, so clearance for chains would have been iffy.

I'm 100% satisfied with these wheels, tires and lugnuts, and would do it again.

I run the E-load range tires at 46 PSI on the street and the ride is firm and stable, but you absolutely MUST air down to 18-20 PSI for anything but the smoothest dirt roads.

One thing I'm confused about with Method's specs. They all give a centerbore spec of 106.25mm, but is that the same as being hub centric with those measurements? Off the top of my head, I don't know the 2011 FJ's hub specs. Those MR 305's are nice looking wheels too. (y)
 

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One thing I'm confused about with Method's specs. They all give a centerbore spec of 106.25mm, but is that the same as being hub centric with those measurements? Off the top of my head, I don't know the 2011 FJ's hub specs. Those MR 305's are nice looking wheels too. (y)
Toyota hubcentric wheel mounting design uses a nominal hub locating diameter of 106mm.

That means your hubcentric wheel must have a hub bore diameter of slightly over 106mm (typically 106.1 or 106.25) to provide some small diametral clearance to allow the wheels to be installed and removed without the use of a sledgehammer.

106.1mm wheel bore diameter would provide 0.004" of clearance on a 106.0mm hub diameter ... tight enough to center the wheel and minimize radial runout, but still allowing the wheel to be removed with minimal effort.

Method's 106.25mm bore diameter would provide nearly 0.010" of radial clearance ... probably more than necessary, but it appears that's the clearance they selected.

I haven't had any unusual issues with tire balancing on my set of Method wheels, so maybe the 0.010" of potential wheel runout isn't that big a deal, at least with AT tires.
 

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Not hard to keep clean, but the deep groove tends to capture and hold water that, if not removed after washing the vehicle, will leave a white 'water ring' of mineralization. Maybe just a problem where I live with hard tap water.
 

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I've been longing to dump my 17" alloy "swiss cheese" OEM wheels and go to 16's since I need to replace the tires. I know it's hit or miss on which 16 inch wheels clear the calipers, but I've found several posts referring to the Mickey Thompson Classic III wheels that fit and I love the teardrop hole look. They make a 16X8 with 4.5 backspacing, zero offset, 106.6mm hub bore and a 6X5.5 hole pattern in satin black. I don't want to do a body lift or use spacers either, so will these work without modifications and are they hub centric? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I run 285 70 16 KO2's on my M/T Baja Classics. No problems. As far as calipers go. Did do a 3" lift to avoid the body mount chop.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Is this your wheel?

Mickey Thompson Classic Baja Lock Wheel 6x5.5 lug pattern, 16x8, 4.5 back space, 0 offset, 106.10mm hub bore? And it clears the calipers?

 
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