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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Decided to use a battery cut-off switch to take out power to my winch. Didn't want any tree-huggers to go to town on my FJ's roof. The switch itself is a Hella Battery Master Disconnect, rated (@ 12V) for continuous 175 amp, and a intermittent amp rating of 1,000 amps. The wiring is real simple, just run the cable connect from the winch to one post, and another cable from your battery to the other post (see pic #3).

Here's the information for one similar to the one I used.
http://www.hellamarine.com/?a=3&t=3&View=FullStory&productID=212&pcid=37

Titan Winch brought up a valid safety concern about the switch possibly failing under the varying draw currents from winch to winch. So, take this under consideration when/if applying a battery disconnect. I plan on taking a look at some of Hella's higher rated switches to see if can be made applicable for my use.
http://www.hellamarine.com/?t=3&pcid=37

Was concerned about the switch just dangling out in the open in the engine compartment, so I decided to enclose it. Modified/cut a Radio Shack project box to fit.



Drilled a couple holes on each side of the enclosure, allowing the cables leading to the winch and another cable to the battery access to the switch.


All closed up and mounted. I thought about applying silicon and making the enclosure completely water tight, but decided it really wasn't necessary. Instead, I drilled a couple drainage holes at the bottom facing side of the box.


No juice.
 

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The Laughing Member
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Great idea!! :bigthumb:

Could you edit into your first post the make and a purchase source for the switch itself, and perhaps a simple wiring diagram and/or wiring directions?? That way I can include your topic in the Technical Articles section.

Thanks. :)
 

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every person running a Winch should have this safety feature installed.
However having said this ,that type of Switch is only rated for between 100amps to max 200amps. ( some have a surge to 500amps ) The average Winch has a max draw of 400+ amps . The Cole Hearse switches have a 450amp load available and this would be a better choice.
It is a nice clean install and the Radio Shack box is a nice touch.
Mine is mounted beside the drivers seat for easy emergency accesss.
cheers.
 

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Ok guys I have a dumb question. Titanwinch could probably answer this best. I have relocated my selenoid under the hood and it has a switch located on the selenoid for the choice of either wireless remote or corded remote. I leave the switch mid way so neither work and close the hood. Would this not leave me safe? Is it that the switch has some sort of a safety key the GTKrockett installed that makes it a better choice?
 

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The power to the solenoid is routed through the winch remote plug. If you disconnect that feed (a 12 gauge red wire) from the winch's main feed (the red 1/0 gauge red wire) and instead extend it all the way to the battery's positive stud, you can then just put a very small switch (20A rated say) in series with that. The remote won't be powered (and thus neither will be the solenoid) if the switch is in the off position. And you don't have to mess around with the high current feed. Like such:



And this is what it looked like before the mounting plate was added:

 

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Ok guys I have a dumb question. Titanwinch could probably answer this best. I have relocated my selenoid under the hood and it has a switch located on the selenoid for the choice of either wireless remote or corded remote. I leave the switch mid way so neither work and close the hood. Would this not leave me safe? Is it that the switch has some sort of a safety key the GTKrockett installed that makes it a better choice?
This helps a lot with tampering but it does not help if you have a solenoid that is stuck in the closed position giving power to the Winch . In this case you need a disconnect from the main feed. And depending on the Winch you have (permanent manet motors draw a lot less amps ) it likely woulld be in the 400+ amps.
Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Great idea!! :bigthumb:

Could you edit into your first post the make and a purchase source for the switch itself, and perhaps a simple wiring diagram and/or wiring directions?? That way I can include your topic in the Technical Articles section.

Thanks. :)
Edited the first post to include the switch manufacturer and specs. I picked it up from eBay a few months ago for around $10. Harbor Freight sells something similar that's on sale from time to time for ~$3, but I don't know what the specs of it are.
 

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This helps a lot with tampering but it does not help if you have a solenoid that is stuck in the closed position giving power to the Winch . In this case you need a disconnect from the main feed. And depending on the Winch you have (permanent manet motors draw a lot less amps ) it likely woulld be in the 400+ amps.
Cheers.
Can a solenoid actually fail on the closed position in normal conditions? I'd think that as soon as the coil fails, or if power to the solenoid input is cut, the electromagnetic field holding the core on the closed position would disappear, releasing it. I guess it could completely melt in the closed position, but that shouldn't be the common case.

That said, I haven't had much practical experience with solenoids, so please enlighten me. And the thought of a stuck closed solenoid on a winch that is pulling the line in is downright scary!
 

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If you are at the top end of the limit for your solenoid pack they can possibly fuse keep in mind a lot of Solenoids only have a intermitent use of 3-4 minutes at the max output when new. As a example a Warn M8000 has a max output at 8000lbs of 437amps over time with arcing etc on the contacts this can actually lessen the amp capacity of the solenoids. overheating and extended winching can cause a sticking / fusing of the contacts . I personally have only seen this happen once and have heard of it happening to another person, although i did not witness this myself .
Cheers.
P.S The seemigly low time at max amp on your Winch is not as bad as it may seem as Series wound motors ( most common type ) are meant for intermitent use a lot of independant testers for various international publications will operate the different Winches for 90 sec time frames
( LR international / 4x4 Monthly Aus ) running at the maximum pull
Cheers.
 

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If you are at the top end of the limit for your solenoid pack they can possibly fuse keep in mind a lot of Solenoids only have a intermitent use of 3-4 minutes at the max output when new. As a example a Warn M8000 has a max output at 8000lbs of 437amps over time with arcing etc on the contacts this can actually lessen the amp capacity of the solenoids. overheating and extended winching can cause a sticking / fusing of the contacts . I personally have only seen this happen once and have heard of it happening to another person, although i did not witness this myself .
Cheers.
Thanks for the info! Sounds like you really should have the power switch outside the engine bay, as an emergency cutoff, located right on the bumper maybe. You could still have a security switch on the solenoid input to stop vandalism. I think that might be my next mod.
 

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It is a very rare occurence as i mentioned i persoanally have only witnesssed it once ( it lasted about 5 -10 secs before it burnt out ) but having a safety switch has many uses even if your hand held switch malfunctions you have a safety for a quick shut off and yes it is prefferable to have it close by.
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Edited the first post to include the switch manufacturer and specs. I picked it up from eBay a few months ago for around $10. Harbor Freight sells something similar that's on sale from time to time for ~$3, but I don't know what the specs of it are.
Thanks!! I'll add this to the Tech Articles section. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
every person running a Winch should have this safety feature installed.
However having said this ,that type of Switch is only rated for between 100amps to max 200amps. ( some have a surge to 500amps ) The average Winch has a max draw of 400+ amps . The Cole Hearse switches have a 450amp load available and this would be a better choice.
It is a nice clean install and the Radio Shack box is a nice touch.
Mine is mounted beside the drivers seat for easy emergency accesss.
cheers.
duly noted, as you bring up a good point. for this project, i followed in the footsteps of some other people, a few members in here as well, that have used this very same Hella disconnect switch. i'd be interested in hearing from them as far as long term use reports.

that said, a potential fire in my engine is nothing to scoff at, so i've included other Hella switches (rated much higher) in the original post. i'll look to see if this is a product i can utilize. appreciate the feedback.
:cheers:
 

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I ran the Warn Power Interrupt in my '91 4Runner...Basically it is a solenoid with an in cabin switch to turn off power to the big red lead that goes to the battery.
I like this idea. I think I'll pick one of these up. Any idea of the amperage rating (couldn't find it on-line)? Any problems with it? I have to assume that if WARN is manufacturing/selling it, it must be able to handle the peak amp draws for any of their winches.
 

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I am running the same setup as Corey and am happy with it. I've used this type of setup in the past and have never had any problems with it.
 

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If it is made by Warn, you can be sure it should handle the amperage required to run their winches.

I had zero problems with mine in my 4Runner.

Maybe one of these days I will get around to installing it in the FJ.
A factory type snitch in the lower console panel would look good for it.

I would have to do some research on which factory switch would work.
I would want it to light up like the others do.
 

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Thanks for the post Doug! I have been thinking of a way to do this for a while now.:bigthumb:
 
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