Nice looking job. I've been hesitating on this for some reason. Maybe you've hit on it.
Please do post the details on the light model number and the fitment.

 

......The bar is the same brand and same model as Alphamacaroon used, but my bar came with six leds per module, not four, and this is why my bar occupies all the vent space and looks really good, as commented by the people, who've seen it performing......

.....
Please do post the details on the light model number and the fitment.

:cheers:
I guess it is the Feniex Titan-X 600 though, so you dont have to hunt it down.

vstrylev, did you do all spot lights? The Feinex site shows you can combo spot and flood modules on the same bar.

Looks AMAZING! Adding to my wish list lol

 

Looks awesome! I've been debating whether or not to do this... Might just have to

 

I totally agree that you should ... then help me with mine ...

 

Thank you Alphamacaroon for the inspiration. All the credit goes to you, not to me, as I've just repeated what you've done with small exceptions. If any of you have any suggestions or ideas, please share.

OK then, looks like you've thanked Alphamacaroon on pretty much every thread so that's covered. :lol:

You're install looks great !

Are you going to post up what changes or "small exceptions" you made to his version of the install ? :lookaround:

 

yes, please post what u did different from his.... very interested and ordering today.

 

+1 please post the exact partnumbers as well.

 

This is awesome!!

 

Can you post some night pics with the lights on & off?

 

Nighttime - light off

 

Differences

Look at both hoods. The light bar is different in that it covers the entire length in the opening and it's 6 LED's per head instead of 4.

Good Job! :cheers:

 

Re: Differences

Look at both hoods. The light bar is different in that it covers the entire length in the opening and it's 6 LED's per head instead of 4.

Good Job! :cheers:

Yeah from the manufacturers site it just looks like they have changed their design. Guess we lucked out that it now fits absolutely perfect.:rocker:

 

Noob question, I'm sure, but is the scoop nonfunctional?



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Yes, non functional.

 

How many lumens are they total? Curious is they are closer to an offroad light, or DRL's you see on newer audi's.

Mines about 14,000 lumens.

 

Says 5700. Each section appears to be 950.

Police lights, Emergency led lights, public work lights, Feniex industries, Warning vehicle lights and sirens, lightbars

 

If you show pics, please indicate spot or flood.
Looks like they're going for $305 + sh

 

Need the night shots with the lights ON to see how much light is reflected off of the hood and how far out it travels before reaching the road surface.

 

Here it is. Shots taken from about same position where my head is when I'm driving. Three shots:
1. low - left upper image
2. high - right upper image
3. low/high+bar - left lower image
4. this is how far it travels before hitting the ground

 

Here are Alphamacaroon's flood pics:

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru.../forums/lighting/147939-hood-vent-led-light-bar-mod-complete-5.html#post2185275

 

Thank you guys for all the replies. Here is the "HOW TO" instructions.

For the project I used:

1. Feniex Titan X 800 led bar with eight 6 led modules from ebay (for the project you need X600, just keep reading). I used combination of four spot and four flood led modules, thank the seller, who made it work for me. The bar: Feniex Titan x 800 8 Head LED Work Light 35 Deg Flood Light | eBay

• You really need Titan X 600 with six modules. The reason, I used X 800, is the price. X600 costs $305 and X800 costs $350. If you cut the bar you make X600 and X200 bars. X200 alone costs $120, but you get it for $45 if you do it this way. So I ended up with two led bars: X600 and X200. The X600, I used for the project, is set up like this: two spot modules in the middle and two flood modules on each side. Works excellent.​

2. --- DO NOT USE THE TOUCH SWITCH. IT DOESN'T WORK PROPERLY. SOMETIMES IT WORKS AND SOMETIMES DOESN'T. use tshis switch instead: Amico ON-OFF 4 Pins Headlamp Fog Light Switch Button DC 12V : Amazon.com : Automotive

Universal touch switch from local Autozone store. I trust rocker switch more than any touch switches, but the reason, I’ve used the switch, is its size. It fits with slight modification to the switch panel located left of the steering column and looks good. The switch is similar to this one: Welcome to American Auto Accessories

3. 30 amp relay. The switch may handle the led bar, but to avoid any possible problems I used relay.

4. All the wiring is connected through my own accessory fuse box. I use the box for all my electrical/electronics modifications such as cb radio, extra lighter, back up camera, etc.

5. 4’ of rubber trim with 1/8” opening (the thickness of plastic hood fascia) from ebay: CCG Universal Neoprene XXL Rubber Edge Trim 1 8" Opening Sold by The Foot | eBay

6. Tools: impact tool with 10mm head; grinder with cutting and sanding attachments; dremel with cutting and sanding attachments; sander; sand paper; drill; tap kit.

7. Patience

Steps, I used:

1. Take plastic fascia off the hood: ten 10mm nuts and then pull it carefully as it has few plastic snap ons

2. Cut the opening for the led bar. When you cut, use a ruler as fascia is slightly curved (I cut the wooden ruler just to the size of opening and made the line with sharpie so you may cut precisely). I just sand it off so it looked straight, but when I was aligning the bar, I realized it is curved so I have to send more and my bar is slightly protruding through the fascia, which still looks nice anyway

3. Cut the metal sheets inside: upper and lower. Use the measurements provided with the picture

4. Grind and sand the upper metal sheet as there will be few sharp edges. I used my grinder for it

5. Tape the part of the hood and pain all the cuts to prevent rust in future

6. Put the bar inside and cover with fascia. Adjust the bar inside, open hood and mark the hood from inside, where you plan to drill two holes for the bar attachment to the hood. Also drill the hole in the hood where the top of the bar touches the hood (you may use just one hole so you may adjust the beam higher or lower). Remove fascia and the bar and drill the holes. Put the bar in, cover with fascia and readjust the bar aligning it to the fascia. Now open the hood and mark the bar where you plan to drill and tap for your favorite size of nuts. Remove fascia and bar. Remove led modules from the bar and then drill and tap holes.

7. Install the bar, guide wires first, then secure bar, put fascia back, connect the bar to your switch, turn it on and adjust up or down. Remember position and mark the spot where you plan to drill and tap the hole for your higher/lower beam adjustment and do it.

8. Put the bar in, secure with bolts.

9. Use rubber trim to cover the edge of fascia. Helps to make the setup water resistant and hides imperfections left by sanding. Glue the end of the trim to fascia and use clumps until glue dries. Put fascia back and you may use a drop of glue in the middle of fascia, where it touches the hood as there will be no more plastic snap ons left.

10. Done.

• I would say the project is not so hard to do and takes just a few hours to finish. It sounds like a big deal of work and time, but in fact it is not. Don’t be afraid. Just be careful with the plastic fascia. Measure several times before you cut. Cover all paint as you will have to move it around a lot and there is a chance you may hit something and scratch the paint. Break the project in two parts: do the electrical part first and do the rest on the next day.
​

LINK TO A HIGH RESOLUTION IMAGE: https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/...600865921/5954194243136606162?pid=5954194243136606162&oid=100470749034788691315

 

Hi Vlad,

If I'm understanding this correctly, you had the eBay seller make you a light bar with 4 heads of each kind of light, spot and flood, instead of all flood lights?

You then took those 8 LED heads out of the black extruded aluminum housing, cut & trimmed it to fit the hoods opening, put the 6 back in (4+2), placed the ends caps back onto the black extruded aluminum housing and had 2 LED Spot heads left over.

What is holding the bar to the hood, "L" brackets?

Are the Spots and Floods on 2 different switches or 1 switch, all ON?

What's your plan for the 2 left over Spot heads? :thinkerg:

Looks Great! :cheers: :bigthumb:

Thanks!

 

Wow so you have to cut the metal on the hood? That may be a deal breaker for me. I am leery of that kind of stuff and I don't know why. Maybe it's because I'm so protective of my car. LOL.

 

I'm protective of my car as well The hood under fascia consist of four sheets actually. You have to cut only two internal ones. If you open the hood, you won't notice any cuts or modifications.

 

If I'm understanding this correctly, you had the eBay seller make you a light bar with 4 heads of each kind of light, spot and flood, instead of all flood lights?

I ordered x800 with 4 spot and 4 flood modules from the seller. The seller sent request to the Feniex and they fabricated the bar for me. It took three weeks, which is unusual as the seller stated. The time shuld be much shorter.​

You then took those 8 LED heads out of the black extruded aluminum housing, cut & trimmed it to fit the hoods opening, put the 6 back in (4+2), placed the ends caps back onto the black extruded aluminum housing and had 2 LED Spot heads left over.

Exactly as you described ​

What is holding the bar to the hood, "L" brackets?

The sheet of metal from above and two bolts from below. I had a picture of the hood and you may notice two little bolt heads. The bar sits very firm because it held very well by sheet of metal on top, a little piece of metal, which I added below and two bolts. If you cut the upper and lower metal sheets as shown in picture, it will be held very secure and if you add two bolts for stability it will hold perfect.​

Are the Spots and Floods on 2 different switches or 1 switch, all ON?

Just one switch. I don't see a reason to use two.​

What's your plan for the 2 left over Spot heads? :thinkerg:

Back light maybe. Will see.​

[/QUOTE]

 

your written instructions on your last picture are too small to read.

 

fixed and updated. there is a link to a high resolution picture. thank you for pointing it out.

 

Thank you for clarification and changing the photos. I see the nuts now and the instructions on the last photo.

 

Very nice. Seems those extra 2 spot lights heads may fit right at home where the rear bumper reflectors are! (pending attachment of course)

 

Looks to be very useful light! Nice shots!

 

When shopping on eBay for the Feniex 600, there are 2 options.

20 vs 35 degree flood light.

Which one is the correct one to purchase?

 

The 20degree is a spot pattern. It will shoot straight out and further. 35 degree is the flood pattern and will fill more lateral space. Spot is great for high speed desert style; flood is better for trail runs with lots of ups downs and a obstacles.


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