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ADDING A SWITCH TO THE DRL's (Swiss Method)

39K views 71 replies 34 participants last post by  MAF  
#1 · (Edited)
Hi Boys and Girls, Swiss here with another “DRL” thread.

I know a number of you are saying: “Gosh Swiss haven’t we beat this one to death?” And/or … “you’ve been around long enough to know better!”

My answer to you is (3) fold:
1) You are 100% correct
2) I read all (well, mostly all) existing DRL threads this morning and I just thought there was a slightly better way and it might be worth posting for those like me that are finally getting around to this
3) If I added this to an existing DRL post, no one will make it that far

This mod is basically just adding a switch to the DRL’s with a little different tap location, so if you have been through this before, you may wish to bail here!

Ok, before I get going, I want everyone to know that I firmly believe DRL’s save lives and they should be on. However, there are a few exceptions (when I am not driving on an open road) when I need them to be off and you have read most of the exceptions before so I don’t need to elaborate.

The other threads tend to make the DRL switch tap right up at the front lights where it is very tight and hard to get to or they instruct on removing a number of body pieces. I chose to work in a simpler location. Right under the hood where the DRL relay is.

This is it
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Remove the relay box next to it to ease access
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Remove the cover from the DRL box and insert a flat blade screwdriver into the locking tab to release the tabs. Lift straight up on the DLR box and it comes free from its mounting tabs. (that one took me a while to figure out)

Note: I used a 3/16" screwdriver. Wedge it down into the area shown (look carefully where I have the screwdriver positioned). Once inserted, tilt the handle of the screwdriver towards the windshield (i.e. flexing the relay box towards the firewall slightly). Once flexed, you can lift upwards on the relay box and it will release. It comes off hard and you need to work at it.
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Remove the bottom cover on the box and strip back the tape on the wires
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Locate the (2) blue lead wires connected to a single terminal
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Cut the smaller of the (2) blue lead wires about 1 ¼” from the terminal
Note: The smaller of the (2) blue leads has little grayish dots on it and the bigger one does not, make sure you cut the correct one
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Make up a (2) lead mini-harness to run into the cab and attach to a switch. Attach (1) lead to each of the cut wires.
Note: When I do a crimp joint like this, I always use a little anti-oxidant grease on the leads prior to crimping on the terminal
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Tuck in your splices into the relay box, re-tape the lead harness, and snap the covers back on
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Remount the (2) removed relay boxes and run the new 2-wire harness through a grommet in the fire wall
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Mount a switch, hook up the wires, and you are done. I chose a small 2 position switch and mounted it in an obscure location since I intend to really not turn the DRL’s off very often. This way I will not accidentally turn them off. Can you spot the switch?
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Sorry about “another DRL thread” but this one seems like it would be a lot easier for folks to do.

Hope you enjoyed the project.
 
#6 ·
Nice mod Swiss. I was going to do the same, you saved me the trouble of analyzing the schematic. Thanks.
 
#14 ·
I always recommend that you do, just in case you would happen to touch a live wire to ground. Disconnect the negative (black). However, by doing so, you will need to reset your radio and compass. You will find tips on how to do that in the forum. If you have any more questions, drop me a note.

There are no "unqualified" questions ... only "unqualified" answers.
 
#18 ·
I'm clueless trying to read this diagram, but is the thin blue wire carrying a load to the head lamp or is it operating the relay? They only reason I ask is because I'm a little concerned about running the load through a switch. Thanks-
 

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#19 ·
The line I show adding the switch to, is actually the "DRL" headlights only and not the relay power. With the "DRL" switch I have added, you can still operate your headlights with the standard headlight switch even if the "DRL" switch is in the off postion.

Simply put, there are basically (2) output lines out of the relay; 1 goes through a resistor and onto the headlights (i.e. the DRLs) and the second avoids the resistor and goes directly to the headlights (i.e. nomal headlights). Again the one I am adding the switch to, shuts off the DRL output only on the output side of the resistor (i.e. less than 12 volts).

If you still have questions let me know.
 
#24 ·
Just put a DVOM on it and you can measure voltage and amperage.

DEWFPO
 
#27 · (Edited)
I did it the SWISS Way yesterday. Very clean job thats why I went with it.
Your mods always seem to be top notch.
Sorry I can't rep ya,how's about a faux rep?
 
#30 ·
Yes it was a little tight on the bottom cover, but a sharp knife on the corner of the opening cured that.
 
#31 ·
has anyone done this mod and used and OEM style switch to turn the DRL on and off using a position left of the steering wheel? and if so.........what does the switch look like?
 
#32 ·
here is a website i found for a nocut "factory look" DRL on/off kit for a tundra that looks very promising. I have a call into this guy to see what they can do for a FJ cruiser for a "no cut" application. This would be completely reversible if you wanted to return it back to factory. Looks like he has just installed a switch prewire inbetween 2 factory style connectors. So where eveyone is unplugging the DRLs up by the driver headlight..........you would just unplug it and then plug this harness in between the 2 existing connectors and then run the switch to the blank next to the steering wheel. Now why didnt I think of this.

Just would need to track down a switch for a complete factory look as the tundra switch is oval shaped. Am hoping a 4runner switch or Camry might work.

Let me know what you think. I am gonna negotiate a group buy if there is enough interest.

SolidWiringTechnology
 
#33 ·
There's interest.:bananahump-slvrathl

I just wish it would connect in a different place since I can't get my hands down in there to that connector up in front.

DEWFPO
 
#34 ·
I think that is just the easiest place to connect on the tundra, which is what the kit was originally designed for. Am suppose to hear something from his this week once he has tested his harness on and FJ and i will let everyone know.
 
#36 ·
ok..........he has all the parts in and i am verifying the measurements for the wiring harness tonite. He is suppose to ship it out to me by thursday and i am gonna test the install out as soon as it comes in.

I will let you know how it all goes. Cant wait to be able to turn those things off.
 
#37 ·
Thanks for the update.

DEWFPO
 
#38 ·
parts are coming in via UPS tomorrow and will install this weekend. Once it is all installed and tested, he will have kits available for order for any others who are interested.

Will try to post the results when i get back in town on sunday nite.
 
#40 ·
OK. Got the kit on saturday based on my measurements and specs and I must say, this is the way to go for all us "non electrician" types out there. From the time i lifted the hood until i cranked the engine to test the installation, it took me about 40 min or so...........and 15 of that was just getting my hand behind the headlite to get that connector apart.

Steps are as simple as this:
1. Open hood and seperate DRL connector behind driver's headlight.
2. Plug in new wiring harness between two connectors you just seperated.
3. Run wires to firewall. Cut off nipple of presleeved raceway through firewall and feed wires through to interior.
4. Remove fuse box cover (do this only for access, there is not fuse work needed) and reach up and poke out switch blank right of steering wheel.
5. Run wires up and through blank hole. Plug wire ends into connector provided.
6. Plug connector into back of switch and plug switch into dash.
7. Wire tie all wires and put fuse cover back on.
8. Test for DRL turn off and on.

This is a completely removable system the could be returned back to factory and anytime and requires no cutting at all of an wires. Switch that was used for this application by me was an aux light switch by toyota which suits my needs at the moment. The only thing that i didnt work out on this kit was back lighting the switch and having it light up when it is depressed and the driving lights are on. I just figured i could work that out myself with forum help at a later time if i wanted that.

Now if i could just get a VSC cancel set up that was this easy!!:pimp:
 
#41 ·
Any more specifics on the kit? Part Number? how much? where to buy? is the switch included in the kit? I like the idea of having the switch lit when the DRL's are off.

Any tips on how to get my bear claws behind the light to get the connector apart?

Thanks, DEWFPO
 
#43 ·
If someone else gets this kit as well, I would be interested in knowing what you think. I love being able to turn the DRL off now. :cool: