thanks good pitcures and write up for people wanting to the ome by themselfs:bandit:

 

First off, great post.

You shouldn't stand over a spring compressor (see pic below). If it breaks pieces are going to fly and YOU'RE going to get hurt. I recommend throwing a moving blanket over the strut as you compress the springs. If the spring compressor breaks, the part will go into the blanket and not you. If you've never used a spring compressor before, spend $40 at the local tire and wheel shop to have the struts setup for you.

I disagree with getting an alignment within a week. You need to let the springs settle a little before getting the alignment done. I waited about 2k miles then had it done.

CRITICAL: Get an alignment with in the next week

All in all a great write-up that will help many folks.

 

Great advice. I updated the root post

 

Thanks for the Rep Points


Any more additions?

 

There's a big gap not explaining how to "unscrew" the stock coilover shock assembly between the steering arms and also the other way to install the new assembly.

Otherwise looks pretty good. I also think you need to verify the torque values.

 

Anyone have more comments or additions?

 

Nice detailed instructions.

Torque values should be given in foot-pounds not "PSI". Pounds per Square Inch is a pressure measurement not a torque measurement.

Everything you disconnect has a torque spec when you re-connect it. The FSM has a complete table (page SS-48, pdf attached).

 

I would say well done and nice additional comments to supplement the original post.

 

Great write up

 

Parts reuse question?

What if any of the original parts off of the front strut are reused; ie rubber spacers or containment washers?
Also how many threads are showing on the top of the strut (above the lock nut) when the install is completed?

 

Parts reuse question?



Also how many threads are showing on the top of the strut (above the lock nut) when the install is completed?

Didn't read through the whole thread but was this question ever answered? I have a lean on the drivers side.

 

Awesome details!
Not trying to be picky: Step 7 in the hint replace word "install" with "remove".

 

Maybe a Modulator already changed it for me??? Here is now it currently reads.

Step 7: Remove the front strut assembly
HINT: To make this job easier you can remove the 2 bottom bolts from the lower A arm. Requires a 19mm socket or wrench. When you reinstall the torque specifications for these bolts is 100 ft*lb

 

Step 7: Remove the front strut assembly
HINT: To make this job easier you can remove the 2 bottom bolts from the lower A arm. Requires a 19mm socket or wrench.

The lower A-arm can now be moved out slightly to make room for removing the strut. This will allow the strut to be "un-screwed" through the steering arms. Line up the coil spring and gradually "un-screw" it down through the steering arms. Installing the new coil-over strut using the same technique. Be careful not to pull out too much on the lower A-arm or the half-shaft will pull out of the wheel assembly. When you reinstall the torque specifications for these bolts is 100 ft*lb

 

Great addition. Root post updated

 

Where the *bleep* was this post when I was trying to do my install?

Anyway - great write up! I'll use it when I swap my 886 springs for 885's. The 886s are too heavy for the FJ even with the Road Armor bumper and winch. I was not able to do a couple of trail obstacles without a little "human ballast" because the front springs wouldn't compress all the way.

 

Great post. I'll use it when I get to my lift. Thanks.

 

Doing my lift tonight, thanks for the write up. Question: How long does it take?

Cheers!

Disregard, I learned how to read.

Let me know if you find an errors in the documentation or any impovement suggestions.

 

Doing my lift tonight, thanks for the write up. Question: How long does it take?

Cheers!

Disregard, I learned how to read.

 

oh man, I took 2 vacation days from work next week, i'm gonna go this alone!!! Haven't done any suspension installs ever. I have air tools though and jacks. The extent of my wrenching is adding the trd exhaust and cai, as well as doing oil changes.

 

Good luck.. I am sure you can do it. I would say what we are all here to help, but many of us will be on the summt slopes in the next comming weeks. Besure to post before and after pictures. Let me know if you find any flaws in the documentation or suggested improvements.

Thanks

 

Just a rookie observation from doing installs on an older vehicle.

Spray bolts with WD40 the night before. The years can make them hard to break.

While you're at it, spray the area for mosquitos. There's nothing like getting yourself into a really tight spot to get to a bolt and having to swat at eleventy billion mesquitos at the same time.

Last but not least (real rookie mistake) keep in mind that when you jack something up that allows the suspension to hang, if you need to crawl/lean up on your rig to get to anything, you're going to put that much more weight on the frame and whatever you're jacking is going to seem to rise. (I did that to an exhaust manifold where the bolts were just sitting in the holes. The bolts fly off at a high rate of speed)

 

Bit of a stupid question but where should I be jacking the vehicle, and also placing the jack stands for both the front install and the rear install respectively? The instructions with in this post reference additional jacking in certain areas to ease in certain portions of the install, for instance:
"Step 7: Remove the coil springs.
HINT: You may want to use a jack to apply upward pressure on the opposite side axle making it easier to install the coil spring."
Wouldn't jack stands be under the axle to begin with? I was under the impression that it was a jacking point.

 

Is there a good or a bad spring compressor brand or type to use?

 

Sometimes auto stores will have two different types, usually one more expensive. Get the one that you can secure safety restraints on, so if it does slip off it doesn't destroy your face. I'm glad I had the safer one, as I've had one slip on me before.

If you are really worried about doing this part, you can take it to a shop and they can have it done in 10 mins for you at a reasonable price. Usually fairly close to what it costs to rent a compressor for a day or two.

 

Great instructions. We've done a few OME lifts now and the best lesson learned is to drive a couple miles away and let Meineke compress the springs for $20.

 

Great instructions.

x2!!

Question: Apparently my installer forgot to replace (and subsequently lost) the bushing and bushing retainer on the top of my right front strut. This obviously resulted in a clunking noise up front when hitting potholes, speedbumps, etc.

They're re-ordering those missing parts as we speak. However, where exactly on the strut are they talking about, so I can be sure the job was done correctly this next time?? And, is that a Toyota bushing that they forgot to replace, or a replacement one that came with my OME kit?

 

I just installed my heavy lift with the help of a friend that luckily had all the tools. I had never done anything like this before but he has had some experience with lifts before, he said that the direcetions where excellent.

 

I am very happy to hear that this thread has been helpful. If anyone has improvement suggestions or tips to make the installation easier, post up.

Thanks

 

Saturday I installed new OME coils all-around on a friend's FJC; I've done the front now three times but that was my first go at the rear. One thing I noticed on the rear - the angle/access to hold the top stud on the rear shocks is very bad; it's difficult to get a wrench on it straight enough to not strip it, even after soaking the threads in PB Blaster. Solution: a strap wrench around the sheet metal dust cover of the shock worked great and immobilized it much easier than trying to hold the top of the shock stud.

 

GREAT Suggestion... I will add that to the root post

 

bump...to keep it alive

 

X2. This is an excellent thread!!

 

the one thing on the post that was not clear to me was how to get the front coil/shock into the lower mount....what i found useful was to take a 18" crescent wrench and open it up to the thickness of the lower A arm and push down on the A arm while getting the bottom of the shock into position....hope this helps....RR