I`ve seen a lot worse. You can get under there and clean that up and treat it I don`t think you will have any problems.

 

As Sanderhawk said, it looks saveable, although it will be a lot of work. I would do some poking on the frame with an awl or small screwdriver to make sure the frame is still solid, so you know exactly what you have. Use the rust situation as a bargaining chip and see if the seller won't come down a little.

 

I agree with the other two members, I’d buy it if it’s mechanically sound with no leaks or obvious issues. You can use osphophosphate for rust conversion and then paint it, it’ll look great again.

M I’m actually in the process of doing that myself. This is after three rounds of scraping/wire brushing off the loose rust, followed by Ospho each time, and 24 hours for the conversion to take effect. You can see the white powder where the rust used to be. Next step is to brush the loose powder off followed by paint. It’s not hard, but it takes time.

 

I have the same but worse, don’t paint until you apply a couple coats of rust sealer, and just a thought maybe try a can of spray on bed liner

 

Check the condition of all metal fluid lines around the underside. Some look pretty nasty from your pics and may need replacement.

 

What no one has said yet is: rust on the frame and suspension can be treated but rust on the body shell is much more difficult to deal with (necessary to cut out and weld in new, because it is so thin). Crawl underneath and get photos of the body / bottom of the floor between the frame rails and rear of the rear axle. If that sheet metal is still rust free then what they said: plan on a lot of elbow grease to stop & manage the rust on the thick parts. But, if the body has begun to rust with earnest walk away and keep looking.

 

Seems like a fantastic price on a '11.. Rust seems generally not bad at all for the year. Would address it though....at the very least start Fluid Filming it yearly or so, but scraping that bad stuff and refinishing it first is ideal.

 

The first question might be to ask yourself how handy and how engaged you are. The rust in the second picture is flaking, which is not good, but the rest looks fairly easily treatable.

The key, though, is that you need to get at it. The surface rust gets everywhere so you need to figure out some serious dedicated time to deal with it. There are multiple methods which are searchable in this forum.

Unless you have access to a lift, figure out lots of time on your back and some nice, long warm showers to get all of the crap out of your eyes.

Good luck. The price is right. In fact, the price is so right that you should definitely be looking hard at the engine and running gear.

 

if you have an air compressor, a needle scaler does a great job of knocking off the heavier stuff that a wire wheel or brush won't touch. they are kind of awkward and won't be able to get in the tight spots but will make the job go a lot faster. i waited too long before i started the rust war and i swear i shoveled up 20 pounds of rust from my garage floor the first time i did it.

 

Note that OP has not been back.

Also, without any information about how badly the body is rusted I'd wait regarding giving advice about trying to save the frame and suspension. If the body is rusted the value of trying to save the frame drops significantly.

 

This is a lot worse rust than the 2010 I have for sale.

 

UPDATE:
I am going to visit and get more pictures again tommorow. If I do plan on pursuing this, I'd probably try to get the price down a bit as many have suggested. I'll also be checking out the engine bay and sending images. Still contemplating, as the frame rust isn't bad at all, but the flaking on one area is gnarly.

I also have another lined up, a $13,000 2007 with 170k miles on it. Here are some images of the frame of the 2007. Thoughts between the two? Really having trouble searching for my best option here (among others as well)