I have had trouble with those CH4x4 switches. Maybe try another brand?

 

The switches appear to be fine but than again I don’t know how to identify a bad switch. Both switches illuminate and when I had everything pre-assemble the switch was able to turn the roof lights off and on. How do you tell if you’re switch is bad?

 

Draw a circuit diagram / schematic.

You may discover the answer while drawing it. If not, posting it will help more people understand your setup and offer suggestions.

In the interim, get a multimeter and start checking voltages from places you expect to be hot, to the chassis. Start at the terminals of the lights that don't light up. Is there voltage between that and the chassis? No? Then back up one "unit" - to the next connection - and check again. Eventually you'll find where the problem is. From there, the solution might be obvious... if not, draw that schematic, label it, and post it.

 

I’m going to draw up a circuit diagram so all can see and hopefully that will provide me with some answers. I ordered a multimeter earlier this week and should be getting it today. I just have this feeling that it will be something obvious lol.

 

Reading your description it all sounds OK, agree a circuit diagram helps us...

If the lights worked before and the only change to that circuit is the joining of the switch illumination wire (which should be fine, I have 7 switches linked that way) then I'd suggest as a start point is to disconnect that wire and see if they work without the illumination.

 

Off the switch I have a “add-a-circuit” plugged into the cabin fuse box. I ran the switch light wire to the oem dimmer. This setup has worked for over two years! So the only thing I did to have both switches light up is combine the two switch wires that go to the oem dimmer so they both light up in the cabin.

This part does not make sense to me. To have the switch light come on when the ignition is activated typically use the add-a-circuit, or to have the switch light come on with the domes (or be dimmed) typically tap into the OEM harness. As worded above sounds like you did both :shrug03:.

 

If I'm not mistaken, the dash illumination circuit has a separate ground from the frame, this allows the switch lights to dim with the potentiometer. If your roof lights are grounded with the same ground as your switch, maybe they only turn on when your dash lights are on? Use the frame to ground your lights, and the switch ground should use the white wire with green stripe.

 

Here’s the best I could do with the wiring diagram and I also included the cabin fuse box with the add-a-circuits.

 

OK, looking at the diagram (GREAT diagram, BTW), and making two assumptions:

1. It is accurate
2. All of your components are in good working order

It looks like you're taking power for the fog lights from the add-a-circuit in the fuse box, whereas the Hellas are powered off the battery.

Reason says that the Hellas are on a "completely" separate relay and switch circuit than the fog lights, so the only way the Hellas stop working is if their relays stop switching.

Continuing with the assumption that nothing's actually broken, the only way that happens is if, somehow, when the Hellas' switch is pushed, current flows from the add-a-circuit to ground somewhere else instead of through the relays.

As I understand your description of the situation, everything works until you connect the new fog lights' switch to the dimmer circuit, right?

Is the behavior the same with the dashboard lights fully dimmed, as when they are fully illuminated?

 

Thank you! I did it on Google Draw and only took me 15 minutes or so.
1. It’s as accurate as I can get it.
2. All components are working (I triple checked)
I just pulled all my wires and inspected them to making sure there wasn’t any damage or touching a surface they shouldn’t. ALL wires were completely fine, not even a scratch or wire out of place. As a side note I also solder everything together.
Yes, the hella lights are on a separate circuit from the fog lights. The only connection they share is at the two switches where the wires are connected together and ran to the oem dimmer/dashboard wire. I do NOT have the fog lights running through a relay. Could that be a possible problem?
At first I thought I was blowing the relays so I replaced them. Right after I replaced the relays the roof lights worked and so did the fog lights. At this time I didn’t have the oem dimmer plugged into the harness. I also turned on my headlights to make sure the switches were illuminated and they were. I did not turn on the roof lights at this time because I assumed they were working. Next, I buttoned everything up except for the dimmer and mirror component and push the switch and nothing! I put the dimmer switch back in and adjusted it to low dim and than to no dim and still nothing! I could hear my relays click each time I pushed the switch for my roof lights but nothing would happen. Keep in mind that my fog lights are working perfectly all throughout this.

 

I would check that the roof light connection 86 is at the correct connection point on the switch. Also check if that add-a-fuse is supplying power. Is that add-a-fuse connected to a key-on or always on slot?

IMO use a separate relay to power/control the new fog lights. To make it even easier, buy a relay harness that is made to supply power to the number of LED pods you want to wire.

 

I checked the roof light connection to the relays than to the switch and according to the switch wiring diagram everything is connected correctly. The add-a-fuse is plugged into a key-on slot for both the roof lights and fog lights. I will now be running a relay with the new fog lights so I don’t melt my switch lol.

 

you need a voltmeter to measure voltage from both sides of the relays & switches.
Voltage in should be the same as voltage out
Follow the circuit diagram

 

Looking at the circuit diagram you seem to have two relays running to the lights and none to the fogs?

If the lights are rated at 4.5A each a single 30A relay will power them. Your switch likely not be rated to run the fogs and should power them through a relay.

Here's a simple diagram I found on a search

 

Final report and problem fixed! So what a journey for a simple light bar...I was determined to solve this problem so I finished work early on Friday, grabbed my multimeter and began my search for the short. I was certain that with the multimeter I would solve this problem in no time. I was wrong. According to my multimeter the relays where working perfectly and power was going to all the right places and still nothing! So I checked again and then once more. On the third check I noticed that the voltage reading coming from the wire that powers the roof lights was jumping all over the place. So off came the whole light bar. I followed the wires to each light and ran a circuit while the light bar was off and everything worked. I checked each wire and all were intact. Needless to say I was stumped and considering leaving the light bar off the truck but I refused to give up. In the process of snaking the wires through my oem roof rack and through the roof of my truck I realized that I didn’t put a rubber sleeve in the bracket that bolt the roof rack to the truck (when I originally installed the lights I drilled a hole through the roof in between the two slots where the roof rack bolts so I could snake wires through the oem roof rack). I fitted each hole with a rubber sleeve/plug to seal it from water and ensure my wires weren’t rubbing against metal. Well I didn’t do that with the bracket and on further inspection I noticed a bur of metal that was thin and a little hard to see if you don’t have the right angle. Well it turns out that this bur had puncture the hot wire leading to the lights! I would of never noticed this if I hadn’t taken everything appear and inspected the circuit several times. My assumption is that I put pressure on the wire leading to my roof lights when I installed the fog lights causing that bur to puncture the wire. It was just chance that each time I replaced my relays the lights would work. I’m guessing the drive to Autozone was enough to shake the wire off the bur allowing the lights to work until I applied pressure to the wire again.
Sorry for the long post. I just had to tell my story on this one lol. I want to thank all of you for helping me out!

 

Great that you sorted it, and perservered too. We all try and not do the long winded methods of fault finding, pays off though.

 

Awesome that you found it! Nothing worse than you can't find the actual fault and everthing is installed logically correct. You start to doubt the test equipment and your skills and then the equipment. Thanks for the brain exercise!
Steve