[RomaBoy]

I stole (without regret) the procedure directly form my "data base" at work. They "bought" the info directly from Toyota.....

Since each wheel has it's own brake line, what with ABS and VSC, these days the order in which you bleed them out probably isn't as important as it used to be....

Like I said, this is Toyota's procedure. I'll defer to their wisdom.

YMMV RON

Thanks for posting that info. FWIW, I had always started from the R/R myself but now I know better.:thinkerg:

 

[RomaBoy]

^^^You can't spell it out any clearer than that Jimmie.:wave:

 

[RomaBoy]

Anyone got anything to comment on about the vacuum bleeding method?

Something I also noticed in my 2011 FJ manual about bleeding the brakes. They said that only when bleeding the rear brakes does the motor come on during the procedure and that the pedal doesn't need to be pumped then, only held down so that the motor will run and push out the old fluid and to not let the motor run for more than 100 seconds at a time. According the the manual, the motor apparently doesn't activate while doing the front set, and they also warn about having to reset any trouble codes that get thrown. Has anyone noticed this while doing their brake bleeding using the 2 person pedal method and have you had any TDC's been thrown?

This is what I've used for years making it a one man job.
https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV80...eding/dp/B00265M9SS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466141260&sr=8-1&keywords=mitty+vac

 

[RomaBoy]

Kaiju,

I never put anything on the bleeder threads myself. I know what you're referring to but that only happens if you opened the bleeder too much. In the end to be sure you have all the air out you can crack the bleeder slightly until it drips brake fluid which is known as "gravity bleed". :cheers: