After typing the first post, went to check things out and I could not replicate the issue. It was operating normally, so I am not sure. I did notice the 4 Christmas tree lights were on, they had been mostly off since I replaced the brake light switch about a year ago. And i noticed a leaky boot on the front driver side but there no way a leaky boot could make this happen. I will keep this thread updated.

 

Have you checked all the CV joints on both front axles? Grab each axle and check for extreme side play at eack joint. Since you have a torn boot and you're hearing noises under the dash, the one joint could've dried out and failed. If it's broken, it won't transmit power to that wheel and it will sit there and grind away when you apply power, especially since you're always in 4WD with a manual transmission.

 

Was it an aftermarket half shaft by chance?
I had one fail in which the splines between the shaft and the outer joint stripped. Made lots of strange noises and no movement forward or reverse.

 

The leaky axle does have aome side play but I'm not sure if its severe. I am also not sure if the axle is aftermarket, I've owned this fj for close to 3 years but just now putting some miles on it. Most folks never use toyota dealer parts but until I remove the wheel its hard to say. I will be going back with toyota parts.

I felt this first happen after slowing down from driving 70 for 1.5 miles. I felt something as soon as I slowed down for the turn, I made it 50 feet and that's when the fj refused to go over idle speed.

The grease leaking from the boot is gray and real thick. I also had noticed a grinding sound when going around right hand curves the last week or so but the leaky boot is on the driver side.

My main confusion is if the axle failed so bad that it caused the fj to not move over idle speed, but after sitting 45 minutes or so it ran like nothing was wrong. I will change the axles soon and may go ahead and do the wheel bearing while I'm at it.

Thank you all so much

 

Could anyone tell me if these are still the factory axles? Please see pictures.

 

Impossible to tell. And there's normally a tiny amount of wiggle when trying to shake the axles back and forth. But your inner driver's side CV boot is puking out a lot of grease, so that axle needs to be pulled and the joint inspected asap. If those are the OEM axles, that one may be your issue and at worst case, it may need replacing.

 

I plan on replacing both cv axles and wheel bearings while I'm in there. I was looking at getting axles from cvj reman so I hope my axles are stock and can get the core back. But I have parked the fj for now. Thanks for all your input.

 

Lots more information is needed to make a remote diagnosis.

When you are in gear, the clutch is released, and you depress the accelerator and the vehicle hardly moves, is the engine RPM stuck at some low value or does the RPM respond to throttle movement?

If the RPM increase with accelerator pedal movement but vehicle speed does not increase, then it's most likely that the clutch is slipping, possibly from the throwout bearing binding on the transmission input shaft 'quill', which guides the TO bearing. Do you know if the clutch and TO bearing are the original OEM Toyota parts, or have they been replaced at some point?

A slipping clutch could also be caused by a binding clutch slave cylinder - what does the fluid in the clutch master cylinder reservoir look like? Clear, slightly murky, or black?

The fact that your vehicle does intermittently move normally pretty much eliminates 'broken' CV axles as the cause of not moving forward.

When the vehicle is in the 'not moving normally' mode, what happens if you rapidly pump the clutch pedal multiple times?

If your CV axles are not mechanically worn out, Toyota sells a 're-booting' kit consisting of boots, clamps, and grease packets that allows you to replace torn or cracked boots for about $50.

The 'grinding sound' when turning right may be a disintegrating driver's-side front wheel bearing. When turning right, the load on the driver's side wheel bearing increases due to weight transfer.

 

This is the only time this has happened. The only time its been moved since was for a test to see if the issue was still there, it wasn't. I'm afraid the issue will return and need to be towed. If it ever happens again I will try pumping the clutch to see what happens. I will also take a video if this happens again.

The vehicle moves without restriction when idling in gear, without using the throttle. I was able to get home by just idling in gear(including a steep incline), every time I would press the throttle the vehicle felt like it wanted to accelerate but something internally was holding it back, whatever this maybe. I feel the rpms would go up if I continued accelerating but I would only press the throttle for a couple of seconds before letting off. Afraid of major damage.

I have smelled the clutch one time when trying to back up a really steep incline but never any other time. A couple years ago we had zero degree weather for a few and I noticed the clutch would not pop up off the floor. But that was only in zero degree weather. The clutch seems fine otherwise.

But all I know is that this a very strange situation.

I will post a picture of the color of the clutch fluid.

 

Murky to black

 

By the looks of your clutch fluid, it's old as the hills and thoroughly contaminated. Clutch fluid is just brake fluid. It also attracts water from the atmosphere like brake fluid. Moisture and dirt in the fluid will destroy the aluminum hydraulic components like the actuator piston bores so that the seals no longer hold pressure. So from looking at just the reservoir fluid, you problably need all new hydraulic actuator components.

It normally should be flushed like brake fluid, every 2 years. You could try flushing it first and see how the clutch then operates, but I think the damage is already done and you need a total clutch job including the hydraulics.

 

yotabearingsandhubs.com for reasonably priced hub/bearing assemblies ready to install, the press work has been done already.

 

You still haven't clearly answered the single most critical question that would confirm a slipping clutch:

When you are in gear, engine idling with the clutch engaged, creeping along at 1-2 MPH and you press the accelerator and the vehicle hardly moves, is the engine RPM stuck at some low value or does the engine RPM instantly respond to throttle movement?

If the RPM increase with accelerator pedal movement but vehicle speed does not instantly increase, then it's guaranteed that the clutch is slipping.

If the engine RPM does NOT increase, then there is some problem with the electronic throttle control system where a command from the accelerator pedal does not instantly result in the throttle butterfly being opened.

 

Tried to empty and add new with the two person method, nothing completely stopped up. So things are leaning towards complete clutch overhaul. I probably still would have purchased this fj anyway but this is a bummer.

 

So you can't even bleed out the old fluid by pressing on the pedal? Does the pedal even move?

 

I didn't press the clutch down with bleeder screw open. I thought that was something your not supposed to do. But I took the bleeder screw completely out and no fluid came out. Should I open the bleeder and press the clutch?

 

Yes the pedal moves.

 

To bleed the fluid you have a helper inside to push and hold down on the pedal while you crack the bleed screw. They tell you when their foot is all of the way down and they hold it there while you bleed and just before the fluid stops you then tighten the bleed screw and then tell them it is ok to lift their foot and start again.

 

Reinstall the bleeder, close it, suck out as much of the old fluid from the reservoir with a clean turkey baster or syringe as possible and pour in new DOT3 brake fluid to the full mark. Then have a helper press down on the pedal AFTER you open the bleeder screw again with a hose attached to drain the fluid into a clear container. But this is important, be sure you don't let them release the pedal until you first close the bleeder again, or you'll draw air back in. Once the pedal returns, open the bleeder and have them press the pedal again. Then repeat until new clean fluid comes out. Make sure you don't run out of fluid in the clutch reservoir, so keep it topped off as you do this procedure.

Edit: The only reason I do it this way is because I hate the loaded clutch releasing when you open the bleeder screw, which squirts out fluid quite forcefully.

 

Did as you said, cracked loose the bleeder screw and had someone depress the clutch, nothing. Did five pumps with the bleeder open and closing the bleeder each time and zero fluid came out.

 

I did notice a creaking noise when the clutch was depressed. I'm sure its been there the whole time, I just didn't pay attention to it. But this don't look good.

 

With no pressure on the clutch pedal, fully remove the bleeder screw.

Poke a piece of stiff wire into the small drillway behind the bleeder screw to make certain that neither the bleeder screw or the drillway are blocked.

 

There may be corrosion in the bleeder screw or the machined passage. If you can't get anything to come out, you'll most definitely need a new slave cylinder. The master cylinder is probably toast as well since it appears regular fluid changes have been neglected.

 

This may be way out in left field. However, after reading the first two posts from Hampston4 I can say the same thing happened to me although my FJ is a 2010 Automatic.

I had been staying with my daughter out in the country at the time. It was getting toward dark and figured to head for home. I got about 1/2 mile down the road and prepared to make a turn when the FJ went into idle mode. Pressing on the accelerator had no effect at all. I was able to turn around and head back to her place. By the time I got back to her place it was dark. Same symptoms: no acceleration, idle only and the traction control light came on.

Next morning went out, started the FJ, put it in gear and drove around her circular driveway a couple of times. Same signs as the 2nd post . . . dash looked like a Christmas tree. It was a 100 mile drive back home via back roads and freeway so I bit the bullet and had it towed to the dealer. Tow driver drove it up on the flatbed with no issues. However, when we got to the dealer the FJ went back into idle mode when he was unloading it off the flatbed.

Turns out it was the Throttle Body Assembly and had thrown the DTC for Throttle Actuator Control Motor. Just saying, symptoms are identical so it might be worth checking to see if there is a DTC. I hated to take it to the dealer but was not going to chance the drive home and get stranded out in the middle of nowhere.

 

What did your throttle feel like when you pressed it? Did it respond or did you have zero throttle response? My throttle was responding but it felt like some was holding it back. Did you have the dash noises under the steering wheel area? Wouldn't be a bad idea to check the computer for codes but I never has a check engine light come on. Thanks gir your input. The symptoms are very similar.

 

You won't feel anything at the pedal since it's drive by wire. If the TB motor had a problem, it should throw a trouble code. I would however, check for codes at the OBD II port with a reader. The connector at the TB should be checked for a loose connector or corrosion. Also pull off the large air tube on the air box side of the TB and see if there's any dirt buildup around the throttle butterfly.