replacing the oil pan and gasket on my FJ a rock put a nice dent in it. No leaks from that but I have the replacement waiting to go on. tried to get the original one off with no luck, what's the trick? it's cemented on, at least it feels like that. Should I RTV both sides of the gasket and locktite the bolts? thanks
TJ Cruiser
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9,301 Posts
There are two oil pan sub-assemblies, the bigger main one and the smaller sump pan (with the drain plug in it) that bolts to the bottom of the main one. You pry them off with a pry bar or a big screwdriver, very carefully, so as not to gouge the gasket surface. They're glued on with Toyota FIPG black seal packing, the finest silicone sealer known to mankind. Use a chisel if you have to to open a space to get a wide pry bar in, but be very careful.
Clean off all the old FIPG seal packing surgically clean, finishing with brake cleaner.
there are no gaskets; use Toyota Genuine Seal Packing Black FIPG in a continuous bead. This stuff costs $25 for a small tube at the dealer. It's worth it, don't skimp and use cheap RTV from VatoZone unless you want to do this all over again when it leaks later.
You will need a new o-ring for the oil pump and a gasket for the oil pump strainer.
No Loctite needed, since there is no cork gasket to crush as with older Land Cruisers and min-trucks. It's really a much better design, but a lot depends on the seal packing and getting everything on before it sets completely.
The main sub-assembly pan has 17 bolts and two nuts. The bolts have different lengths, so hopefully you paid attention which came from where when you took them off. Tighten them in several even stages, the 10mm bolts to 7.4 ft. lbs. (89 in. lbs.), the 12mm bolts to 16 ft. lbs., and the nuts to 16 ft. lbs. All the tightening to final torque has to be done within 15 minutes, before the seal packing FIPG completely sets.
The "No. 2" (smaller sump) pan goes on similarly; a bead of seal packing black FIPG on surgically sterile surfaces, there are ten bolts and two nuts. Again, tighten them evenly in several stages. Bolts go to 80 in. lbs., and the two nuts take 7.4 ft. lbs. (= 89 in. lbs.). As before, get all the stages done and final torque reached within 15 minutes.
Clean off all the old FIPG seal packing surgically clean, finishing with brake cleaner.
there are no gaskets; use Toyota Genuine Seal Packing Black FIPG in a continuous bead. This stuff costs $25 for a small tube at the dealer. It's worth it, don't skimp and use cheap RTV from VatoZone unless you want to do this all over again when it leaks later.
You will need a new o-ring for the oil pump and a gasket for the oil pump strainer.
No Loctite needed, since there is no cork gasket to crush as with older Land Cruisers and min-trucks. It's really a much better design, but a lot depends on the seal packing and getting everything on before it sets completely.
The main sub-assembly pan has 17 bolts and two nuts. The bolts have different lengths, so hopefully you paid attention which came from where when you took them off. Tighten them in several even stages, the 10mm bolts to 7.4 ft. lbs. (89 in. lbs.), the 12mm bolts to 16 ft. lbs., and the nuts to 16 ft. lbs. All the tightening to final torque has to be done within 15 minutes, before the seal packing FIPG completely sets.
The "No. 2" (smaller sump) pan goes on similarly; a bead of seal packing black FIPG on surgically sterile surfaces, there are ten bolts and two nuts. Again, tighten them evenly in several stages. Bolts go to 80 in. lbs., and the two nuts take 7.4 ft. lbs. (= 89 in. lbs.). As before, get all the stages done and final torque reached within 15 minutes.
Joined
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9,301 Posts
What year is your FJC? Mine is a 2007 (4/06 build) and it does not have a gasket, and the 2007 FSM does not show one at all for either oil pan.
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