Have you checked the linkage? At 300k the bushings may be shot causing it to bind up.

 

No linkage used, just a cable.

Disconnect the cable from the lever on the side of the transmission and see if it now shifts easily. If nothing changes, the friction is in either the cable or the console shifter mechanism.

Most likely it's the cable, disconnect it from the console shifter and spray some motorcycle control cable lube into both ends of the cable and work the center cable back and forth to distribute the lube.

If the cable is severely corroded or has broken strands, just replace it.

 

I disconnected the cable from the transmission but left it connected to the shifter. Sadly the shifter and cable move freely, I say sadly because that sounds like it leads to internal tranny problems. Does anybody have any thoughts?

 

To continue from above, the shifting has gotten so bad I’m afraid to move the lever for fear of bending something. But once again the actual gear shifting while driving is fine. Should I be able to move the transmissions lever which the cable attaches by hand? I don’t think I can.

 

The question is what actually moves when the shift lever in the cab is moved?
1. The shift cable would be my first suspect, but you stated when the cable is disconnected from the shift lever on the side of the transmission, the shift lever in the cab with cable attached moves freely. In that case, there is no load on the cable ... would the cable start to show binding if it were to actually need to apply force to the lever on the transmission? At 300K miles, I would just replace the cable as a first step.

2. The transmission gear position switch on the RH side of the transmission. This is potentially exposed to sand, road salt, etc. and could possibly corrode internally and start to bind. Remove the switch and see if the shift stiffness disappears.

3. The internal shifter detent mechanism, a spring-loaded lever with a roller on the end that engages a notched detent sector. This mechanism is constantly bathed in ATF so should be well lubricated. It looks like the ends of the shaft pass through oil seals in the transmission housing, so if the ends of this shaft get corroded, they might bind in the housing. Dropping the transmission pan will allow you to inspect this mechanism.

Here's the internal detent mechanism, with the detent notches on the lower part of the valve lever sub-assembly

Shifter detent mechanism seen from inside the transmission.

 

Wow! Thanks for the info. I’ve always handled all maintenance myself with the exception of changing the trans fluid, I’ve taken it to the dealer at about every 75k. The sealed case and no dipstick made me hesitant. If i drop the pan, will I be able to refill myself? Corrosion seems the likely culprit, like I said earlier in the thread, I only put a couple thousand miles a year on it now, with the exception of going out west. I’ve always said just sitting is hard on them also. I started noticing it last fall when I would drive it instead of my 4Runner, and it would loosen up. It suddenly has gotten much worse and I’m through driving it until repaired.

 

The question is what actually moves when the shift lever in the cab is moved?
1. The shift cable would be my first suspect, but you stated when the cable is disconnected from the shift lever on the side of the transmission, the shift lever in the cab with cable attached moves freely. In that case, there is no load on the cable ... would the cable start to show binding if it were to actually need to apply force to the lever on the transmission? At 300K miles, I would just replace the cable as a first step.

2. The transmission gear position switch on the RH side of the transmission. This is potentially exposed to sand, road salt, etc. and could possibly corrode internally and start to bind. Remove the switch and see if the shift stiffness disappears.

3. The internal shifter detent mechanism, a spring-loaded lever with a roller on the end that engages a notched detent sector. This mechanism is constantly bathed in ATF so should be well lubricated. It looks like the ends of the shaft pass through oil seals in the transmission housing, so if the ends of this shaft get corroded, they might bind in the housing. Dropping the transmission pan will allow you to inspect this mechanism.

Here's the internal detent mechanism, with the detent notches on the lower part of the valve lever sub-assembly

View attachment 1210857


Shifter detent mechanism seen from inside the transmission.
View attachment 1210861

The question is what actually moves when the shift lever in the cab is moved?
1. The shift cable would be my first suspect, but you stated when the cable is disconnected from the shift lever on the side of the transmission, the shift lever in the cab with cable attached moves freely. In that case, there is no load on the cable ... would the cable start to show binding if it were to actually need to apply force to the lever on the transmission? At 300K miles, I would just replace the cable as a first step.

2. The transmission gear position switch on the RH side of the transmission. This is potentially exposed to sand, road salt, etc. and could possibly corrode internally and start to bind. Remove the switch and see if the shift stiffness disappears.

3. The internal shifter detent mechanism, a spring-loaded lever with a roller on the end that engages a notched detent sector. This mechanism is constantly bathed in ATF so should be well lubricated. It looks like the ends of the shaft pass through oil seals in the transmission housing, so if the ends of this shaft get corroded, they might bind in the housing. Dropping the transmission pan will allow you to inspect this mechanism.

Here's the internal detent mechanism, with the detent notches on the lower part of the valve lever sub-assembly

View attachment 1210857


Shifter detent mechanism seen from inside the transmission.
View attachment 1210861

Hey FJ Test, I know this is an old thread but hoping you could give your opinion.

The shifter arm on the tranny in my '07 has become extremely stiff. Only shifts smoothly when I let it warm up for about 30 mins or spray it with a penetrant (only did that once but felt smooth as butter after, i know its probably not a great idea.) Wondering if you have any advice on replacing or somehow breaking it free repentantly?

 

If after you disconnect the cable the shifter and cable move easily, then it sounds like both of you have got some corrosion or dirt in the lever/joint where the cable attaches to the side of the transmission, that is making it stiff.

Remove the switch for access to that lever, and use more penetrant to loosen that up, and then once loose use some spray grease to lube it back up (the penetrant may rinse out the original lube as it cleans the joint, so you want to re-lube once it is loosened up).

 

When you say “remove the switch” what do you mean? I can’t imagine that lever wouldn’t have some sort of cover or boot on it. Mine doesn’t, I can see it clearly from the underside. I did hit it with some penetrator and it loosened right up but it still gets stiff when the tranny is cold. EDIT: also you got a rec on lube? Don’t wanna have to keep hitting every drive

 

Sorry, I don't know much about AT, all my vehicles have always been MT. From FJTest's post above I thought there was a switch that your shift cable attached to, on the side of the transmission and if so, then behind that would be where it goes inside to operate the "manual lever shaft" in his exploded view. From your description of spraying penetrating fluid on something and that making a huge difference, my advice is to do that until the shaft moves easily and then apply some thicker lube to help maintain that result over long term. The idea being that penetrating fluid is very thin (to penetrate) and so it tends to evaporate quickly. What you have found is that is effective and now you need to get something that will last in there to maintain that benefit.

Perhaps if you post some photos of where you have applied your penetrating fluid it will help.