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Rear FJ utility box with built-in sleeping platform

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37K views 28 replies 16 participants last post by  Southbounder  
#1 · (Edited)
The idea of this box came from LandCruiserSteve’s design of his original “Box”. This one is basically a single storage box that has a space under the roll out drawer for the sleeping platform to fold up and be stored in. Does not require removal of the back seat. Basically butts right up to the back seats when they are folded up. Uses similar hardware as Steve’s original “Box”. It has two storage trays. One behind the roll out (will accommodate a rifle with a 20” barrel or air compressor) and one inside the rear of the roll out (will accommodate a pistol grip shot gun or tire chains). The sleeping trays fold into each other via a piano hinge (one is slightly smaller than the other). The legs unscrew from the pipe flange base and store within the tray when it is closed. The top lid of the storage box then opens from the top via another piano hinge, drawer rolls out and the platform then slides under the roll out for storage. When used as a sleeping platform the two trays have a reinforcing steel plate on the interior/bottom sides. This plate spans the gap between the two trays where the piano hinge to add rigidity. All materials are made out of 10 gauge (1/8) alum. All trays/sleeping platforms are formed boxes built with a press for strength. Roll out slides are rated for 300 lbs and lock. Top surface will be checker plate for traction and the rest is smooth alum, all will be painted grey to match the interior. Calculated weight is around 96 lbs. Construction starts this weekend. Locking mechanism is the only thing left to figure out. So far I’m leaning towards a simple padlocks. Thoughts appreciated :)

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Up date: It's done for now. I need to buy more Dyna matt and remove the cork sound deadner but that Dyna matt stuff is expensive here in PG. I need to find a better source. Its good enough for now. It all works very well and the best suprise is how well the OME heavys ride :). I ended up with 6'4" of sleeping area & 107 lbs of weight. Takes approx. 4 mins to put up the platform and no tools are required. Pic's below:

Front view of box with padlock shackle covered so its not as easy to get bolt cutters on it.
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Rear view of box. Still need to add turn buckles to holder down.
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This pic is just to show how much storage room it still has.
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Sleeping platform storeage area under the drawer.
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Sleeping platform folded up.
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The platform legs inside the folded up sleeping platform.
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Sleeping platform set up.
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Storage space pic's under the platform.
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The whole reason for the box build with sleeping platform was for these two, Kassidy (1.5 yrs on the left and Alexandria 3 yrs on the right).
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All in all it turned out ok. The next one I build will be done slightly diffrent due to lessons learned, but this will work for now. Fishing & camping and hanging with my girls time:)
 
#4 ·
I am thinking about updating my box as well, but I do have some questions...I am not very tall (5'10") and I cannot stretch out comfortably to sleep in the back of my rig...am I doing something wrong?

And now a note on my box...Mine is a full length with a hinge point to allow the box to fold atop itself on the rare occasion I need to use the back seats. I have storage baskets that do not trap moisture or dirt, so clean up is easy...
 

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#6 · (Edited)
Hi Armymedic
My box measurements were made with seats pushed fully forward, bottoms removed, seat backs layed fully forward and a air mattress in the back which puts you level with were the seat bottoms would have protruded into your sleeping area as mentioned by Caddo. You then get about four more inches of head room. I think this is the diffrence for you. It seems squishy to me on my measurements and I'm 5'11". I will be starting this box on Saturday so we shall see. I like your idea of the baskets (actually I love your design)....mine will need to house a air compressor and firearms from time to time and Canadian law requires locks and reasonably secure enclosure for the latter. So i'm restricted to steel or aluminum, plywood is nice but you lose the interior space and I'm worried about the legalitys. It's tuff to build a box that is secure but yet light. I love the ammo box pic. One big reason why I went with 1/8th formed alum. over plywood. Just enough room for ammo box, 20" rifle or air compressor etc. My experince with plywood is poor. On my old BJ 42 Land Cruiser I built a plywood box (I used the best 3/4" 100 % Douglas Fir...yes it was a long wait to get it) with wood screws nails etc....basically a way overbuilt box and with four tire chains bounceing around it came apart. It took years of beating but after time it fell apart. This may of been because it had no top alot of the time and moisture weekend it, but for the price of plywood these days alum. was my choice. In my opinion if you want to carry tire chains 12 months out of the year (and I do) you need steel or alum. Simply because they bounce & beat the s$&t out of your box. My old plywood box had high density foam glued to the top, bottom & sides which was not very noisey but the logging roads and the bouncetook the tole on the box. Your box looks great....if I was going to build a plywood box I would build what you have. If I was not going to carry tire chains yeeeesh....tough decission. What is the weight of that set up? Very nice design easy to build and very....very functional. Those pics my friend should be added to the forum 'Box' sticky (once there is one...hint hint LandCruiser Steve). Thank you for posting your pic's.
 
#9 ·
Runt,
You are quite the craftsman. Wish I knew how to work aluminum like that!
 
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#11 · (Edited)
We'll yes, making them for any one would be great. If testing works out as well as I think you will be able to order one. A good friend of mine has a very successful fab shop and he liked the idea so much he wanted to help me make one just to see if they would be worth producing. So him and I got to work (really Chris did most of the work). They are fairly easy to make due to the amount of forming in the design (which is the key). Really not that much welding and there is zero wastage of a sheet. However materials are expen$ive due to he only uses the best. Shipping would be a high cost as well. I would recommend saving the pictures to your hard drive and visiting a good fab shop. Materials alone so far are about $ 500.00. However the gauge of material or type of material (steel vs aluminum) could easily be reduced therefore greatly reducing the cost. This thing is way over built, but Chris would not make it unless it was perfect. He is a total perfectionist. I think 18 gauge would have been sufficient due to the forming. He said he would make more, but he is all about the quality and not cheep. Any way I’ll keep you posted.
 
#13 ·
Thanks.......I'm still in debt to you for most of the idea. It will be quite functional once it’s done. Hey Steve how useful did you find portioning your drawer into compartments? I’m thinking of just having a couple friction type dividers that can slide in and out just to keep things from sliding around. Once the foam is laid. How do you like the friction lock that you used for your lid? I’m contemplating using a hydraulic/air rod lift type mechanism similar to the rear window but don’t like how it takes up interior space. Which has me leaning towards your set up. I have read your original “THE BOX” build so many times......thanks again for posting it up with all those great pictures.
 
#16 ·
Runt said:
Hey Steve how useful did you find portioning your drawer into compartments? I’m thinking of just having a couple friction type dividers that can slide in and out just to keep things from sliding around.
Click to expand...
Actually, I never got around to putting dividers into the drawers of the original BOX. But, it is being incorporated into the latest version (that's in progress as we speak.)


Runt said:
How do you like the friction lock that you used for your lid? I’m contemplating using a hydraulic/air rod lift type mechanism similar to the rear window but don’t like how it takes up interior space.
Click to expand...
The friction lock hold-ups work just fine. (For additional support, I added a "lock notch" at the base of the hold-up brackets.)

I tried a number of different hydraulic/air rod units myself, but I couldn't find one that properly matched the weight of the lid. (However, I'm sure there must be one out there though.)

The new BOX will have a pair "gull wing" type lids in the forward storage area (each facing outward for easier access from the open suicide doors). So, perhaps the lighter weight of the separate lids can accommodate some easier-to-find pneumatic hold-up struts.
 
#18 ·
Wow, that looks great in metal...unfortunatly I have no expireience with metal fab and lack the tools to even start.

I LOVE the rifle stoarge box...very nice and looks like it satisfies the laws up there. You have me wondering if I can add something like that to mine!

You asked about my dimentions which are 43.75" wide and 24 long for both pieces and the back one (with the baskets) is 8.5" high.

GREAT JOB...makes me jealous!
 
#19 ·
Hey ArmyMedic
24 " long for each surface = 48" total?......the sleeping surface of this unit will be 76" or 6 feet four inches. You would just need to remove your seat bottom (they have bolts with red turn nobs for quick removal) and add another platform. Then you will find that its not so squishy and you would have room for the a box that could accomadate a rifle :) Thanks for the kind words as well.
 
#28 ·
Runt said:
I need to buy more Dyna matt and remove the cork sound deadner but that Dyna matt stuff is expensive here in PG. I need to find a better source. Its good enough for now.
Click to expand...
Try Quietcrap from Cruisercrap.
 
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#29 ·
Nice work! I've been toying with the idea and you've taken it to a great working level using metal!
 
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