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Hey Autobots, Thanks for the feedback. You're not wrong. I considered it, but I've personally had bad luck printing ABS so shy'd away from it.
ABS is finicky for sure. The shrinkage rates make it very essential to use a wide skirt with something super tacky to keep it attached to the build plate. It also helps to have an enclosure to keep the environment warm while printing. It off-gasses some not so healthy fumes while printing and ventilation or printing in a room that is a ways away from humans and pets is recommended. But, it is super strong and holds up well in high heat and high UV environments, so it is a trade-off. For a long time I printed exclusively with MakerGeeks ABS since it printed better than any other ABS, had less shrinkage, and much less fume generation. Then MakerGeeks had a bunch of supply issues and closed their doors. I bought a bunch of their Raptor PLA while they were on their way out and still have probably 30 or more pounds of it in various colors. I have attempted to find another ABS that prints as nice, and the closest I have come is Hatchbox, but it doesn't hold a candle to the MG in terms of ease of printing. It has been awhile since I have printed anything - my printer needs maintenance repairs to get rid of the ringing and over/under extrusion issues I was having. It is probably 12 years old and has had around 300 or more pounds of filament run through it so I am looking to upgrade. Tech has come a long way in 10 years, and I want a build volume of at least 610mm cubed (2 cubic feet). Lots of large project ideas, and I hate gluing parts together, lol.

I am glad you have had good luck with the PLA, maybe it is the particular brand you print with? I have done temp tests in a car in the middle of summer and rigidity has always been less than stellar with PLA, but that was a few years ago so maybe formulations these days have better results.
 
Discussion starter · #202 ·
ABS is finicky for sure. The shrinkage rates make it very essential to use a wide skirt with something super tacky to keep it attached to the build plate. It also helps to have an enclosure to keep the environment warm while printing. It off-gasses some not so healthy fumes while printing and ventilation or printing in a room that is a ways away from humans and pets is recommended. But, it is super strong and holds up well in high heat and high UV environments, so it is a trade-off. For a long time I printed exclusively with MakerGeeks ABS since it printed better than any other ABS, had less shrinkage, and much less fume generation. Then MakerGeeks had a bunch of supply issues and closed their doors. I bought a bunch of their Raptor PLA while they were on their way out and still have probably 30 or more pounds of it in various colors. I have attempted to find another ABS that prints as nice, and the closest I have come is Hatchbox, but it doesn't hold a candle to the MG in terms of ease of printing. It has been awhile since I have printed anything - my printer needs maintenance repairs to get rid of the ringing and over/under extrusion issues I was having. It is probably 12 years old and has had around 300 or more pounds of filament run through it so I am looking to upgrade. Tech has come a long way in 10 years, and I want a build volume of at least 610mm cubed (2 cubic feet). Lots of large project ideas, and I hate gluing parts together, lol.

I am glad you have had good luck with the PLA, maybe it is the particular brand you print with? I have done temp tests in a car in the middle of summer and rigidity has always been less than stellar with PLA, but that was a few years ago so maybe formulations these days have better results.
I'm using Duramic PLA-Plus. I don't think I would use it for something that goes on the dash, but sunk inside a door seems to be fine.
 
I've printed ABS/ASA for over 8 years, and a "heated" chamber is a must. ABS/ASA parts printed on an open-air printer may look good, but layer adhesion is usually poor and they will perform far worse in this regard than a PLA part printed on an open air printer.

You don't need a heated chamber really, a simple insulated box is more than enough. As long as the interior is kept above ~95°F (from my experience) you should expect pretty good quality high strength prints with minimal warping. Hotter is better of course but with an insulated box the heated bed itself should be able to keep the interior temp above 100°F easily. With proper printing conditions, a part should be able to adhere to the build plate without a skirt and not have any lifting at the edges.

I wouldn't use PLA for automotive applications for a variety of reasons. PLA parts lose structural integrity far sooner than they actually melt, in hot conditions they will droop and permanently deform under load. PLA degrades pretty quickly under sunlight too. I would use ASA for exterior components, but I've had ABS parts be exposed to direct sunlight for 5+ years and be perfectly fine aside from a little discoloration.
 
Hey everybody.

I just popped up to Yosemite to sleep in my truck and try out my latch and came back to this. I'm flattered. I'm pretty busy, but I'm going to try to make these for everyone if you don't mind being a little patient. If all of you who are interested in a set don't mind sending me a PM with your specific colors listed that would be helpful for me to organize this. Please specify if you would like the Handle. It's the longest part to print, so if it's not desired it'll speed up the process for me significantly. So let's format the request like this:

Handle - Yes/No. If yes, Black, Grey, Red, Orange, Blue, or White?
Port color - Black, Grey, Red, Orange, Blue, or White?
Button color - Black, Grey, Red, Orange, Blue, or White?

The internal linkage will be whatever color was on the printer last, but won't be visible. Finally, as everyone has suggested, $20 seems reasonable for the effort, so that's what we'll do. But I'll go ahead and include the aluminum rod already bent to match mine so you won't need any additional materials to install. All snap fit for the release parts.

Thanks!
Dallas
Would like latch no handle
Port black button black
Not sure if this is way to dm you dallassterling
mmare
 
Please PM me your request. I'm getting buried trying to track all of this so it makes it easier for me to keep it organized and track the order in which they come. Thanks!!
Hi Dallas, I would love to order one if you still make it. I tried to post a comment but still doesn't give me the PM option. So let me "reply" to this and see if the PM can be activated. Thanks,
 
Discussion starter · #215 ·
Hey everyone,

Just posted my design for my sleeping platform if anyone is interested. It basically was the inspiration for this latch design. Just got around to writing it up. Maybe it'll inspire you, too!


Dallas
 
Hey everyone. First time posting here, but it's been an amazing resource for me so I wanted to give back. There have been several posts about this already and I want to thank especially WESAYSO and SONOF40 for the inspiration. I'm preparing to do more car camping with my FJ cruiser, so in anticipation of sleeping in the cab I needed a way to exit. Here's what I did:

There's already a small access port in the bottom left of the rear door inside panel, so I calipered it and quickly modeled it in Sketchup to form my parts around. I modeled an inset port that has snap fit sides to sink flush into the existing opening. I also modeled a "button" that will gently snap in to the rails on the "port" and keep it traveling vertically, but with a loose fit as to not bind.

View attachment 1163413 View attachment 1163414 View attachment 1163415

I was surprised this worked perfectly on the first try. But no complaints! I located the metal rod that moves vertically from the exterior handle and modeled a snap fit junction to intercept it with my own aluminum rod. The junction snap fits onto the existing rod and has a topside receiver for the aluminum rod I cut and bent to fit. This was a bit of a gut feeling shape. But in general I came up the length of the straight portion of the existing rod, then bent out and up 45 degrees, then back out at 90 degrees to the original rod. Basically targeting the center top of the existing opening. Then cut the excess off to slide into the rear of the button. The "junction' piece's rotation around the rods allows a little fore/aft play for connection, while keeping a rigid connection in the vertical axis.

View attachment 1163418 View attachment 1163419 View attachment 1163420

Next, I designed and printed a pull handle and created it to fit into the top left bolt hole that fastens the door cover on. There were naturally negative spaces on the left and right of the port for placing the snap in hole cover. I utilized these to keep the handle from rotating. Kind of a keyway design. One thing I struggled with was that the receiver for those two bolts is a plastic insert and I felt that yanking on the handle over time could weaken that, so I grabbed a 3" 5/16th carriage bolt from the HD that fit perfectly in the square hole of the door with the threads facing OUT. That way I can tighten the through bolt down from the outside for easy removal later. I had to remove the bracket from the door temporarily to install the carriage bolt.

View attachment 1163421 View attachment 1163422 View attachment 1163424

Lastly, I basically did the exact mod that WESAYSO has posted, but placed the button under the pull handle to protect it from shifting cargo and prying eyes. 10 bucks on amazon for 5 3 position switches with male paddle connectors. Look to their post for details.

View attachment 1163425

Ultimately, I think this recessed button design is the safest when it comes to shifting cargo. It seems very unlikely that anything would poke into a small opening AND push down, so I feel confident I won't lose my cargo all over the freeway. Here's a video of it in operation. Thanks for reading!



Dallas
Love this idea any way I could buy this from you I don't have a 3D printer nor a computer
 
Dallas - I apologize I couldnt figure out how to direct message you. Buddy of mine bought one of your switches and I wanted to get one for my daughters FJ. No rush, but when you have time I would like to buy the black on black switch, no handle. I know she would love it. Thank you for your design, its perfect!
 
Hey everyone,

Just posted my design for my sleeping platform if anyone is interested. It basically was the inspiration for this latch design. Just got around to writing it up. Maybe it'll inspire you, too!


Dallas
Dallas,
First, Both your designs are fantastic !!!! My girlfriend is using my truck next month to camp and I want her to be able to open the rear window. The guy (Lil13Lizzy7) who posted that MOD on YouTube also posted your "rear door latch" design. What a b@d@ss combo. Now I see your rear floor design. Super cool. My GF probably doesn't realize how much sleeping on a sloped floor would suck. I'm gonna take your idea and level mine out too.
Last, I've searched for how to PM on this forum. I feel completely stupid. I would like to purchase the Rear Door Latch and Handle in black (when available) ?

Please advise as to how to pay you ?

Thank you !
Greg
 
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