My new lift has developed a clunking noise. I notice it when I go over speed bumps and the front end seems to drop fast. If I go slow and allow the front tires to ride over the back of the speed bump it does not happen. The condition also exists offroad on bumpy or washboard trails. There is no feedback on the pedals or steering when this happens but I don't know what potential damage I may encounter in the long run. Any ideas?
Clunk noise from front end w/OME lift
808Moshin
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Okay...the clunk is still there. It occurs while going up and down my driveway and over speed bumps, during full droop of the front suspension. The driveway is a disaster that only Idaho can deliver. More or less 30 yards of speed bumps/stair steps going up an incline, thanks to Mother Nature and a '78 Ford plow truck. This thing is test track material.
It goes away if speed/front tire droop are decreased. It really feels like my suspension is bottoming out and the front tires are losing contact. Prior to the addition of an OME Heavy/Medium, ARB bumper and winch, it took a lot more speed to to cause the front wheels to loose traction. Is this just the result of a stiffer suspension or have I installed something wrong?
It goes in for a front end alingment tomorrow AM and I don't want to get the alignment if something is wrong. I will be requesting an alignment per the sticky.
The front coils are clocked correctly, the cups face up to cradle the coils. The upper front strut bushings are compressed nicely. No extra hardware is evident. Everything tight and torqued appropriately. No sway bar rub. Bumper and winch are tight and torqued. Jacked up front end and no contact between springs and UCA's during full extension of the suspension. Am I missing something?
My Jeep TJ did the same thing after repacing the stock suspension with med OME all around. The see-saw would start swinging and the front end would clunck during droop and lose traction.
Am I bottoming out the suspension and I just need to slow down or AM I MISSING SOMETHING?
It goes away if speed/front tire droop are decreased. It really feels like my suspension is bottoming out and the front tires are losing contact. Prior to the addition of an OME Heavy/Medium, ARB bumper and winch, it took a lot more speed to to cause the front wheels to loose traction. Is this just the result of a stiffer suspension or have I installed something wrong?
It goes in for a front end alingment tomorrow AM and I don't want to get the alignment if something is wrong. I will be requesting an alignment per the sticky.
The front coils are clocked correctly, the cups face up to cradle the coils. The upper front strut bushings are compressed nicely. No extra hardware is evident. Everything tight and torqued appropriately. No sway bar rub. Bumper and winch are tight and torqued. Jacked up front end and no contact between springs and UCA's during full extension of the suspension. Am I missing something?
My Jeep TJ did the same thing after repacing the stock suspension with med OME all around. The see-saw would start swinging and the front end would clunck during droop and lose traction.
Am I bottoming out the suspension and I just need to slow down or AM I MISSING SOMETHING?
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1,522 Posts
I have DR's up front freshly installed...went offroading and now here a clunking noise up front on the drivers side when I hit bumps at moderate speed. Sounds like somethings hitting the bottom of my floor (from underneath) I can feel it on my feet.
Taking to dealer on Friday.
Taking to dealer on Friday.
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3,628 Posts
This may be a trivial (but maybe obvious) thing to check:
If you're using the stock wheels, double-check the torque on your lug nuts. Mine worked their way loose after working on the suspension, and made a clunking sound when running over speed bumps. I didn't check the torque, and relied upon the air impact to snug them down (shoulda known better; always check the torque!)...
Anyway, just another obvious thing to rule out...
If you're using the stock wheels, double-check the torque on your lug nuts. Mine worked their way loose after working on the suspension, and made a clunking sound when running over speed bumps. I didn't check the torque, and relied upon the air impact to snug them down (shoulda known better; always check the torque!)...
Anyway, just another obvious thing to rule out...
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77 Posts
this is happening to my fj also. just did the lift last sunday...didn't notice anything on the initinial test drive, but when i took it out the second time to get dinner it was really bad. i can hear it on every bump.
i'm running 883's/spacer with the orginal "all-terrain packages" bilstein shocks. Been afaid to drive it since and is park at my friends house now. Will examine the suspenssion tommorow. I'll let you know what I find.
Does anybody have the same setup and could you take a picture of it so i could verify the installation was done correctly. had to take the struts and springs over to pepboys to had it swap out (didn't have a spring compresso)r.
thanks,
Tony
2008 4x4
i'm running 883's/spacer with the orginal "all-terrain packages" bilstein shocks. Been afaid to drive it since and is park at my friends house now. Will examine the suspenssion tommorow. I'll let you know what I find.
Does anybody have the same setup and could you take a picture of it so i could verify the installation was done correctly. had to take the struts and springs over to pepboys to had it swap out (didn't have a spring compresso)r.
thanks,
Tony
2008 4x4
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580 Posts
inspect your inner tie rods. i have the same symptoms and mine are clunkin...
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196 Posts
I'm doing much better on the roller coaster driveway. Slower speed is the way to go. I found that all our vehicles were doing this clunk thing. Seems the amplitude of the driveway waves increased while the FJ was up on stands for a week during install.
It drives great now after the alignment.
It drives great now after the alignment.
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1,522 Posts
Mine clunks after DR install. I am having the dealership inspect my inner tie rods...I will let you know if that's the issue and how much.
$84 for initial look over...since it isn't warranty work.
$84 for initial look over...since it isn't warranty work.
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3,628 Posts
Just one more post, relating to my own OME installation:
1) As mentioned elsewhere in the forum (search for OME installs): Make sure that the coil springs are clocked correctly in the lower cup. If the coil spring's end is facing the tire, then the sway bar end will strike the coil on compression. If this is indeed the case, then the strut will have to be removed and the spring re-aligned correctly and the strut re-installed.
2) My own passenger side coil clunked a couple of times, then stopped within a short while after the install (noticed it when running over speed bumps). It stopped clunking after compression and decompression of the coil springs a few times. I attribute this to the coil spring shifting and settling in the spring cup (which is not fixed in place, and could shift to mate with the spring).
Settling of coil springs can happen, so don't sound the alarm bell immediately after an install, unless the noise is excessive and constant over time. Give your coil springs a chance to settle...
Edit: I should really drink more coffee before posting first thing in the morning. I just re-read where it was stated that the coil springs were clocked correctly. Disregard comments mentioned above pertaining to so.
1) As mentioned elsewhere in the forum (search for OME installs): Make sure that the coil springs are clocked correctly in the lower cup. If the coil spring's end is facing the tire, then the sway bar end will strike the coil on compression. If this is indeed the case, then the strut will have to be removed and the spring re-aligned correctly and the strut re-installed.
2) My own passenger side coil clunked a couple of times, then stopped within a short while after the install (noticed it when running over speed bumps). It stopped clunking after compression and decompression of the coil springs a few times. I attribute this to the coil spring shifting and settling in the spring cup (which is not fixed in place, and could shift to mate with the spring).
Settling of coil springs can happen, so don't sound the alarm bell immediately after an install, unless the noise is excessive and constant over time. Give your coil springs a chance to settle...
Edit: I should really drink more coffee before posting first thing in the morning. I just re-read where it was stated that the coil springs were clocked correctly. Disregard comments mentioned above pertaining to so.
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Not sure if this will help the OME people...but this is what happened when I brought my FJ in for the same "clunk" I was getting with my DR's:
Got the call for the FJ. Absolutely NOTHING wrong with the truck. I had them check the tie rods, inner tie rods, and anything else that could be causing the problem. NOTHING. They referred me to Big Johns Performance for further inquiry.
I went there and they said that the clunk could be from the pivot that is on top of the coil over. The coil over can be "twisted" left and right...so it could be twisting while hitting bumps and hitting the stops.
They also said that a Transfer Case drop kit is a good idea. They said about $150 for me. Is this a good idea?? Any input on the drop?
I am going to bring in the FJ next Friday to Big Johns and they are going to do another check over on the FJ...just incase the dealer missed something. I will be standing right there...so I will know if they actually looked at it or not.
Got the call for the FJ. Absolutely NOTHING wrong with the truck. I had them check the tie rods, inner tie rods, and anything else that could be causing the problem. NOTHING. They referred me to Big Johns Performance for further inquiry.
I went there and they said that the clunk could be from the pivot that is on top of the coil over. The coil over can be "twisted" left and right...so it could be twisting while hitting bumps and hitting the stops.
They also said that a Transfer Case drop kit is a good idea. They said about $150 for me. Is this a good idea?? Any input on the drop?
I am going to bring in the FJ next Friday to Big Johns and they are going to do another check over on the FJ...just incase the dealer missed something. I will be standing right there...so I will know if they actually looked at it or not.
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3,628 Posts
If there's a 'twist' to the coil spring, it will shift and settle on its own (it should, as the only place the spring has a stop is on the lower cup). After a couple of shifts the spring should rest against the stop and go no further (that's what mine did on the passenger side).
As far as the drop kit install, I would hold off and get a second opinion. With a 3" lift I don't think it's necessary. With a 6" lift, yeah, you might consider it, due to the steep angle of the CV-joint alignment. Again, I would seek out opinions of others...
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Thanks for the input! With the DR's it isn't the coils that twist...it is the whole coil over. The mount on the top has a "heim" joint (sp?) and it twists left and right. The guy at Big Johns said that he recommends the kit to all Toyota's with a lift of atleast 2.5 inches. I will seek other opinions...after all I have not heard a thing about a transfercase lowering kit for these until now.
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77 Posts
ok, I'm not sure I had the same issue with everybody else but I'll post my solution anyway.
Mine "clunk" noise sounded like the complete strut assembly was loose when going over any kind of bump. The nut on top of the strut was bury down until there wasn't any thread left on the shock. We added another metal washer to tighten it up. That seem to work for me. It drives like it is stock now! me happy.
hope this helps.
tony
2008 fj
Mine "clunk" noise sounded like the complete strut assembly was loose when going over any kind of bump. The nut on top of the strut was bury down until there wasn't any thread left on the shock. We added another metal washer to tighten it up. That seem to work for me. It drives like it is stock now! me happy.
hope this helps.
tony
2008 fj
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270 Posts
I had/have the same problem as well. Originally i got the clunk on the right of the vehicle due to the UCA hitting the spring at full articulation. I went back to the shop and had the springs end's index to face the rear of the vehicle and it stopped doing it on the passenger side...now it does it on the driver side with the springs indexed the right way. Here are my options as i see them:
1. Index the driver side coil incorrectly so that it doesn't hit.
2. Wait to see if the spring settling changes anything
3. Live with the clunk (and have it slow eat away at my UCA and spring)
Any other ideas, starting to look like a flawed lift design in my mind but I'm willing to listen to other ideas....
Front: OME 885s with ToyTec Spacer
Rear: ToyTec Springs
OME shock front and rear
1. Index the driver side coil incorrectly so that it doesn't hit.
2. Wait to see if the spring settling changes anything
3. Live with the clunk (and have it slow eat away at my UCA and spring)
Any other ideas, starting to look like a flawed lift design in my mind but I'm willing to listen to other ideas....
Front: OME 885s with ToyTec Spacer
Rear: ToyTec Springs
OME shock front and rear
Did you figure out what the problem was? I seem to have the same issue. I can feel it on my feet - beneath the floor board.
Thanks!
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1,392 Posts
After reading everyones post, it almost sounds like its a issue of play in the upper strut/shock mount. Or there is physical contact between parts.
Spraying a lubricant over areas after getting it to clunk, then driving back over what caused the clunk, is a good way to eliminate possibilities. I have also installed GO pro cameras in the wheel wells of cars/under cars to diagnose issues before. Somethings not right.
EDIT: another possibility is that your bottoming out the shocks hard due to the excessive spring pressure. Although it seems like people are running different springs and still having the issue.
Spraying a lubricant over areas after getting it to clunk, then driving back over what caused the clunk, is a good way to eliminate possibilities. I have also installed GO pro cameras in the wheel wells of cars/under cars to diagnose issues before. Somethings not right.
EDIT: another possibility is that your bottoming out the shocks hard due to the excessive spring pressure. Although it seems like people are running different springs and still having the issue.
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43 Posts
Mines done this with OME 884's on stock FJ struts. I'm thinking mine in a bottoming out strut, but I'm not sure. It does it on speed bumps, bumpy roads, whatever. To me it seems like my springs unload fast if weight of vehicle is taken off them. Like when going over bumps. Can I run 5100's with OME 884's? Are the extension lengths on 5100's longer than stock FJ shocks (they aren't Bilsteins just plain black Toyota shocks)?
Clark (SupermanWV)
Clark (SupermanWV)
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43 Posts
I think I found my problem. And maybe the answer. I'm looking at my driver side front strut/shock and the end of spring is facing front of FJ. (But the shock cup is shaped to holds ring and its facing that direction). And the front sway-bar is laying tight right up against the spring and spring perch. Which is the problem.
The passenger side is total opposite. End of spring seated in perch is facing the back of the FJ. And in turn the sway-bar at has about 1/4 to 1/2 inch space between it and any part of the spring and perch.
And the other odd thing is.... The driver side shock inside the spring and the bushing above the center of shock look slanted forward towards the sway bar. Which isn't the case on the passenger side.
Could it be this strut was installed backwards from the beginning? Is the end of the spring supposed to face the rear of the FJ, like on the passenger side? If I switch it now will the fact it's been the opposite way since who knows when cause a safety issue. This lift was on the vehicle before we bought it. And like I mentioned before its 884's on stock Tokiko shocks.
Should I unbolt everything and spin it 180 degrees?
The passenger side is total opposite. End of spring seated in perch is facing the back of the FJ. And in turn the sway-bar at has about 1/4 to 1/2 inch space between it and any part of the spring and perch.
And the other odd thing is.... The driver side shock inside the spring and the bushing above the center of shock look slanted forward towards the sway bar. Which isn't the case on the passenger side.
Could it be this strut was installed backwards from the beginning? Is the end of the spring supposed to face the rear of the FJ, like on the passenger side? If I switch it now will the fact it's been the opposite way since who knows when cause a safety issue. This lift was on the vehicle before we bought it. And like I mentioned before its 884's on stock Tokiko shocks.
Should I unbolt everything and spin it 180 degrees?
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43 Posts
Yep! I searched and found this post. My FJ has a problem. Hopefully someone can direct me towards a fix.
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