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How I Installed the Second Horn on 2011 FJ

20K views 18 replies 13 participants last post by  bcr1983  
#1 · (Edited)
This is a list of tools, materials, and steps I followed to install the second Toyota factory horn in my 2011 FJ Cruiser. Everyone who reads this will not necessarily need to follow as many steps as I did, because almost everyone who reads this will know more about this sort of thing than I do. I have only a vague notion of electrical principles, I hate to work in confined spaces, and I have a lot of tools. With that as background, here goes:

Tools:
  • Wire cutter, for cutting wire.
  • Wire stripper for stripping 14 gauge wire, or sufficient skill to use a knife for this purpose.
  • Pliers, for installing tap splice connector.
  • Crimping tool, for crimping female quick connector.
  • 10 mm wrench (socket or combination), for installing second horn.
  • 12 mm wrench (socket or combination), for removing and reinstalling first horn.
  • Nylon zip-ties, for tidying up the wiring after you’re done.

Materials:
  • 3 feet of 14-gauge wire. I got white wire. Get any color other than gray.
  • Tap Splice connector for 18-14 AWG (Ace Hardware product 34566): these are available in small (6-count) packages. This is a blue part.
  • Insulated female quick connectors, size 14-16 gauge. This is another blue part. Commonly found in hardware stores, Ace will have them. I’d get a couple, just to be safe. You’ll have enough wire to fail to make the connector crimp correctly a few times, and start over.
  • Toyota high-pitched horn for the FJ Cruiser, part number 86510-60240, I paid $68.65 for the part, description is “HORN ASSY, HIGH”.
  • Toyota official factory bolt with washer, part number 90080-11545, I paid $1.88 for the part, description is “BOLT, W/WASHER”.

Steps:
1. Open the hood.
2. Locate the primary horn; I call it Horn Number 1. It’s on a cross brace in front of the radiator on the left hand side of the car.
3. Using the 12 mm wrench, remove the bolt holding the horn in place to give yourself some room to work on the wires.
4. With the bolt removed, the horn will be hanging by wires. It is all right.
5. There is one gray wire going into the horn. Unplug the connector on this wire from the horn so that the wire is accessible.
6. Remove the electrical tape around the gray wire where it enters the black spiral sheathing to get more access to the wire. They don’t assemble these things with any thought that we might actually be working on them in the future, so there is not much wire available.
7. Cut about ¼” off the end of the white 14 gauge wire that you bought so that you have a clean end, where you can see the wire and the insulator.
8. Get the Tap Splice connector.
9. Insert the gray wire to be tapped through the hollow side of the connector, so that the connector is about in the middle of the exposed gray wire. Hold it in place.
10. Insert the end of the white wire that you bought (and just cut for a nice clean end) into the other side of the connector up to the internal stop. The internal stop is located off to one side of the metal tap in the connector, so that you can push the wire under the tap, up to that stop. Hold the two wires in place on the connector.
11. Using pliers, squeeze the metal tap through both wires to complete the connection.
12. Snap the retaining clip into position and the tap is complete.
12a. Plug the end of the gray wire with the black connector back into the socket in Horn Number 1.
13. The hardest part is done.
14. Wrap some electrical tape around the area where the gray wire enters the black spiral sheathing.
15. Using the 12 mm wrench, bolt Horn Number 1 back into position.
16. Taking the other end of the white wire that you bought, strip about ¼” of the insulation off the end using the 14 gauge wire stripper or a knife. If you’re using a knife, be careful.
17. Using the crimping tool, install an insulated female quick connector on the end of the white wire.
18. Plug the connector into the new horn, Horn Number 2.
19. Find the threaded hole in the cross brace. Your new bolt from Toyota should fit in that hole. If it doesn’t, find someone to help you.
20. Using that new bolt and the 10 mm wrench, install Horn Number 2 on the cross brace, in the threaded hole that you just found.
21. Using a zip tie, secure any loose white wiring from your installation.
22. Close the hood.
23. Toot the horn, noticing the satisfyingly irritating and loud noise that it now makes.

Here are after installation photos of Horn Number 1 and Horn Number 2

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#2 ·
Hi coland,

Like your style...did the same mod. Good spot for it on the 2010+.

You might consider tucking the wire up under the upper radiator support so that it's not so exposed. There is a wire bundle there to tye-wrap to.

Also you might consider removing the wire tap and soldering that connection. Remove about 5/8" of insulation on your primary wire. Split open the strands a little. Then strip about 5/8" off the secondary wire, weave it to the split in the first and solder. I find this to be a lot more reliable connection. Just coat with liquid electrical tape and call it good! Less hassles from corrosion down the road too.
 
#3 · (Edited)
...You might consider tucking the wire up under the upper radiator support so that it's not so exposed. There is a wire bundle there to tye-wrap to.

Also you might consider removing the wire tap and soldering that connection. Remove about 5/8" of insulation on your primary wire. Split open the strands a little. Then strip about 5/8" off the secondary wire, weave it to the split in the first and solder. I find this to be a lot more reliable connection. Just coat with liquid electrical tape and call it good! Less hassles from corrosion down the road too.
I'm amazed that I got the thing installed and working with this little effort, but I agree with your suggestions.

Tucking the wires away will be easy, and slightly less ugly (the white wire does show from the front).

There's so little of the gray wire available at Horn Number 1 that I'll have to splice in some wire to make the three-way solder connection, it's in a pretty confined space. I'd never heard of Liquid Electrical Tape until you mentioned it, so I'll go scout up some of that and use it as you suggest.

Out here (in Oregon) we seem to be pretty cavalier about corrosion, but that's because we don't use road salt in the winter, as a rule. Still, your suggestions will no doubt improve long-term reliability.

Thanks!

Chris
 
#7 · (Edited)
If you use a moisture-resistant 3M™ Scotchlok™ connector, you're good, that's what they're designed for.
These look great, so good in fact that I would dismantle what I've done to use this part. I found an online retailer that sells a similar one in small quantities: Platt. Just go to Platt.com, look for "314-BOX" which is the 3M catalog number for a similar 3M item. Shipping will be hefty (UPS), but at $.78 each I'll order several, just to have them around. The one I chose accepts three wires: just snip the gray wire and insert the two ends plus the white wire, and I should be in business.

Thanks,
Chris
 
#8 ·
Toyota made a secondary horn that can be purchased extra. There is already another harness under the hood for another horn. just plug and play.
 
#13 ·
One of the first mods I did to my 2008 FJ was to install the second high 500Hz horn on the passenger's side fender, using the hidden connection on the passenger's side wall. This makes a huge difference in the sound.

Unlike my old 2008 FJ, there is NO hidden secondary horn connector on the 2011-2013 models, so don't bother trying to find it.

I installed my 2nd horn up front on the passenger's side using an existing 6mm threaded hole and a jumper wire.

2nd 500Hz Hi Horn: 86510-60240
6mm Bolt: 90080-11545
2 feet 16 gauge jumper wire
1/4 wire connector
Flexible wire shield (optional)
Black Tie Wrap
Electrical Tape

I stripped back the original gray horn wire insulation about 1/2" (don't cut it), and soldered the jumper wire around it, then covered it with electrical tape. The other end got soldered to a 1/4" connector. I'm not a fan of clip on or clamp on wire connections - only soldered connections for me.

I covered the 16 gauge wire with a black flexible shield, to protect and hide the wire, but that's optional. I tie wrapped the hanging wire under the hood release plastic.
 
#14 ·
I wouldn't mind installing some new horns so I don't get a "that's lame" look from my passengers when I honk it :lol:
 
#15 ·
Just did the mod on my 2014 and it worked great. I installed horn #2 (passenger side) up front with the OEM bolt. I turned it a few degrees so that it does not block access to the A/C port. Many thanks for the detailed instructions. This inexpensive mod only takes about 30 minutes and is a must do in my book :)
 
#17 ·
I installed a complete set of Cadillac 4-note (A, C, D, F) horn set on my ’07 FJ in almost the exact spot as Cohland. It took a bit of spacial wrangling but they fit in nicely with the horn opening facing downward. The Cadillac description of the horn set was “loud train horn sound” and that is an accurate description. My wife’s description was, “Now that’s a horn I can live with”. Unfortunately, Cadillac stopped making the set around 1997.