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New Stereo Install Dash Tweeters to Rear Channel?

4.4K views 14 replies 5 participants last post by  ZoSoIV  
#1 ·
Hello All,

FJ is a 2008 with base 6 speaker system. I have been reading every stereo post on these forums, and nothing quite answers what I am looking to do...

Here is my purchase list from Crutchfield:

HU: Clarion CX505 - 22wx4 channel RMS 50w peak
Door Speakers: Rockford Fosgate Punch P1692 6x9 2-Way
Dash Speakers: Rockford Fosgate Prime R1T-S 1" Tweeters

Here is some background:

I know the stock door and dash speakers are wired parallel, with the stock dash speakers being 8 Ohm units, the doors are 4 Ohm. The exciter speakers are the only thing on the rear channel.

Here is what I want to do:

Install RF 6x9's using the Crutchfield cable into stock wiring.

Disconnect the stock wiring to the dash speakers.

Run the 1" RF tweeters to the Clarion HU with new speaker wire, and attach them to the right rear and left rear channel leads coming straight off the deck.

Disconnect the headliner exciter speakers.

This should theoretically work as the front channel 6x9's will see full wattage at the correct impedance (4 Ohms), and the 1" tweeters will see full wattage at the correct impedance (4 Ohms). In this scenario, I would simply not use the second Toyota harness for the rear channel, the tweeters would be hooked directly to the rear channel leads off the Clarion (would this work?). This way, I could use the fader to "adjust" the balance between the door and tweeters.

I am doing this because I am afraid that hooking up the 1" tweeters to the stock dash wiring means that in the upper frequencies, the impedance could dip to 2 Ohms as the 1" tweets are 4 Ohm.

Am I crazy?

Thank you in advance.
 
#3 ·
Hey ZoSo,

Thanks for advice! I decided to order enough 14 gauge OFC wire to run to the doors, but quick question... I have been researching the best way to get the wires through the stock grommet, so I have fish tape. I am planning to take of the two bolts attached to the wire loom on the door, then pull the wires aside to allow access. The question is this, I am assuming the wires will come out on the other side inside the cabin behind the floor kick panels? From there, is there a direct pathway to behind the head unit? No post I have found actually shows the entire route the wires would take from the door to the cabin and to the HU, and from the dash speaker location to the HU. I have heard it is easy, but I am a visual person, and I am hoping for some direction before I tear everything off. I am also going to Dynamat the door panel and behind the speaker opening.

Thanks for taking time out, I really appreciate it!
 
#4 ·
there is plenty of space under there to get it though all right heck its been a while since i fished it though so can't remember for sure , make sure you use the crossover that came with the tweeters so there not running at full range , great on the sound deadening thats a must
 
#5 · (Edited)
Removing those 2 bolts will make it very easy to run the wires through, and yes, they will pop out right behind the kick panels. From there, you should be able to run the wires up under the dash to the HU. Use zip ties to hide the wire under the dash as you dont want it hanging down. Just make sure to avoid running your new speaker wires near any other wires because that might cause some unwanted noise in your speakers (alternator whine).
 
#6 ·
Hello All,

This worked out really well, took me 6 hours to do the total install, including tint felt protectors, and sound deadening. It is amazing how the sound deadening reduced the road noise as well. The sound is very dynamic, the tweeters bring the sound stage up to ear level, and the 6x9's give great lows and mids. Listening to Rap does distort on the bass level that sounds best for other types of music, but that is because I am not using an amp, so that will be down the road. For now, this is an excellent setup for around $300 dollars.

Thanks for everyone's help!
 
#7 ·
cool man anything over stock is a huge improvement and a guy doesn't have to spend a small fortune on it , yes a amp will help lots look at the Alpine 4 channel power pack when you get the extra money

https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-KTP-445U-4-channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B003VVYL46

on the distortion your source is important via mp3 files etc won't sound as good as a CD or HD Radio, also play with your EQ and tune it as good as possible
 
#8 ·
Hey ZoSo,

Thanks for the info! I tweaked the EQ on the deck, it sounds awesome with all types of music, save for rap. I can crank a country song with full sounding bass that you can feel, and then Rap seems over driven, so I have to take the bass down. This is through aptX bluetooth source. HD Radio sounds amazing as well. After looking at all the specs again, perhaps I should have went with a 6x9 that was rated at 6-45 watt RMS instead of the Fosgates that are 6 - 75 RMS to get them closer to the deck output.
 
#10 ·
Hey ZoSo,

Yeah, this was my bad on the rap "issue". I finally ended up running a real time analyzer tool with pink noise, then trying to flatten the spectrum, and I found that I was way over boosted (gain) on the EQ for bass, mids and treble. I ended up cutting instead of boosting, then setting the pass filter to only send 60 Hz and above to the doors because I have no sub. The lower sub frequencies were over driving the 6x9's along with the boosted bass level. Everything is sounding good, and I can switch from rap to country with no adjustments.

Thanks!
 
#11 · (Edited)
ok yeah those 6x9s are rated down to 60Hz so yes thats where you want them ...on the RTA yes you want to flatten the spectrum and adjust it from there depending on your taste (wich varies from person the person) BUT to much gain over driving the speakers isn't good (shorten the life of the speaker) and or sounds crappy drivin hard so you did the right thing ...using the Media Xpander is ok at lower to mid volumes NOT and loud levels...thats where an amp comes in handy for listening at louder volumes ...from here out now you can adjust the EQ to what your listening to....full range speakers are always more challenging to EQ correctly than component speakers thats why i lean more toward component speakers but that depends on budget via good component system runs lots more money