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Replacing the rear door weatherstrip

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14K views 17 replies 12 participants last post by  DailyDriven  
#1 ·
My back door weather strip had gotten torn up over the years. Just replaced it with an OEM one today, put a bead of waterproof silicone seal around the metal it pushes onto. Took awhile to get it seated all around.

Question is now the door is tougher to close, a light close like before it won't close all the way, needs a hard close to latch. And when I pull on the door opener lightly like before it won't unlatch. I have to pull hard and the latch releases with a hard pop.

Is this normal with a new seal and just needs to break in a bit? I've gone around it quite a few times getting it pushed on.
 
#2 ·
My back door weather strip had gotten torn up over the years. Just replaced it with an OEM one today, put a bead of waterproof silicone seal around the metal it pushes onto. Took awhile to get it seated all around.

Question is now the door is tougher to close, a light close like before it won't close all the way, needs a hard close to latch. And when I pull on the door opener lightly like before it won't unlatch. I have to pull hard and the latch releases with a hard pop.

Is this normal with a new seal and just needs to break in a bit? I've gone around it quite a few times getting it pushed on.
Your silicon probably makes it stick out further than before, you arent supposed to add that. Even 1/8th of an inch makes a drastic difference in how your door opens and closes. With that said, over time your seal will form to the door. Or, for just a couple of bucks, any body shop can adjust the door now to your liking.

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#5 · (Edited)
Its been on there an hour or so now and its already noticably better. I had to stop by a Toyota dealship to return a part since the sent me the wrong weather seal for the suicide door and one of their techs said that it didn't seem to be an issue.

The thin seam of seal I put on would push around the metal and shouldn't make it stick out since its just a very thin piece of metal the seal is pushing onto, the sealant would just go to the sides.

There was some remnants of a sealant on there from the original install (13 years ago), but a lot of it had worn of. I figured it needed something to hold the weather strip on. I first fit it on without anything but it would just peel off at the corners. Now with the flexible silicone sealant it should cure and hold it on.

I also was reading other threads on here before doing this that said to put on a bead of silicone seal (not the caulking strips). I used some waterproof silicone sealant marine grade I had left over from working on a boat.
 
#8 ·
Yeah a silicone grease (like Dow Corning 1,1,1) is pretty tacky stuff and will definitely make it harder to open the door. At work we use it to hold pump gaskets and seals in place for assembly.

I had an issue on a new truck years ago where the rubber door seal was rubbing and it seemed like maybe the door was misaligned, almost looked like it was getting chaffed by the door opening and closing. Took it back to the dealer to see what they thought and they said it just needed to be greased. They wiped a very light film of lithium grease on it and took care of the problem for a long time. I think I redid it myself maybe 5 or 6 years later. No issues with the door being hard to open or close.
 
#9 ·
Ian,
FWIW, I've had good results w/ Armor All / Black Magic type silicone sprays to lubricate/PM my weather-stripping. (I just bought the Walmart brand one: Auto Drive Protectant, 10 oz $2-$3; seems to work fine)
HTH,
D ? ?
 
#10 ·
Just to tag on to this thread because this was the thread I found when looking to replace my 2007 rear weather strip. And it felt a bit unfinished with the details...

These are my notes:

To access this, I removed the bottom plastic plate in the rear threshold. Removed screws and then used plastic pry tool to pop up at the screw openings. May not have been required, but it gave me a chance to clean underneath that too. (it was nasty and I am nearly OCD)

OEM Replacement Rear Door Opening Weather Strip Part# 67881-35051

Before removing old weatherstrip, note there are paint dots on INNER rim (just under the head liner and the plastic side pieces) of the original weatherstrip about 4 inches from the radius in each corner. There are two on the sides above the bottom radius (white) and two on the top straight-part toward center from the radius (one pink and one white). The pink was on the top right and white was top left, when installed on the FJ. The new OEM weatherstrip will have the same paint dots for alignment. BUT as long as you pay attention that the seam (there is only one seam on the whole thing) is in the bottom center, you are gonna be pretty close.

To remove old weather strip, just find a place to start that pulls easy and start yanking a little at a time all the way around. I took care to place my old one on ground maintaining original orientation for additional alignment reference.

New weather stripping attachment channel was not 'opened' very much where it slides on to the metal surrounding the opening. I did open it up manually enough to see an adhesive already sitting in the bottom of the channel opening on the weatherstrip. I did NOT add anything to the new weatherstripping. I did clean some of the remaining adhesive on the metal before installing new, but not all. I essentially left what previous non-dirty/still tacky adhesive I could. This is the best time ever to clean the areas near the weather strip, and maybe even polish the paint and protect it with wax or ceramic.

Basically just get the new one positioned correctly and start pushing it on lightly and work your way around. Once in place and aligned correctly, go around entire opening pushing it on with strong force until it 'seats'. Put a little spray silicone or wd40 (a whole long debate which is best for rubber), your choice, on a rag and wipe a little on the new rubber after install. Make sure the door is clean where it will seat against the new rubber. (I cleaned and ceramic-waxed mine) Carefully close the door to insure nothing moves and push hard on door until it latches. Leave for a couple of minutes. Open door and verify all stayed in place (fix it now if not) and then close again and let door stay closed for 24 hours or so. So be good to go from there on.

Old weatherstrip looked like dogs had totally torn the heck out of it. New one is super nice! So nice to be able to get new parts for the 13 y/o vehicle with 192k miles...

I think the issues Ian Lauder ran into were because I think he put his on mis-aligned. See the photo above, there are lots of wrinkles in the corners. The new one is pre-shaped for the corners. There should be no wrinkles, or at most a couple extremely slight ones. It is also possible his is flipped or something weird, but I can say cause I don't know where his pink paint dot is sitting. My guess is that the seam isn't in the bottom center, or maybe somehow his is inside-out? Is that even possible? But he'd have to chime in again to let us know.

Hopefully this gives more confidence to others that this will turn out ok if you try it yourself. Good luck!