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Slip yoke greasing question....

7.8K views 3 replies 4 participants last post by  Kaiju  
#1 ·
Had my rear slip yoke greased yesterday. My mechanic pumped grease in there until the the yoke moved, pushed back slightly and he stopped. I am concerned because I always read here the it should only be like five squirts ( he did like 20 squirts) and done. I am concerned about the possibility of the slip yolk hydro locked. I did go underneath and had some body push the rear of the truck up and down and saw the slip yoke moving in and out as the truck went up and down. Question is if the yolk is moving than there should be no concern for the hydro lock scenerio right?

It did fix the thump at stop
 
#2 ·
I would remove the grease zirt. Move the rear suspension around.
If there is pressure in there it will squirt back out.
Replace the grease zirt.

Too much can hydro lock or blow the spline seal or ruin your pinion bearing or your output bearing on your TC case if it hydro locks.
 
#4 ·
I found that jumping up and down on the bumper doesn't give enough travel movement to purge out enough extra grease to do any good. The best way to get out the maximum amount of extra grease and leave a large air pocket is to remove the zerk, unbolt the drive shaft at the transmission flange and collapse it to it's fully collapsed position. It'll take a lot of pushing, prying and swearing, but that grease will get forced out. It's about a 2 to 3 inch travel as best as I can remember. You'll have to support the shaft with a jack stand while doing this.

Then with the zerk still out, pull it back into engagement with the transmission flange, which will suck air back in through the zerk's empty hole, bolt it back up and re-torque the 4 nuts to 65 ft/lbs and reinstall the zerk. This is similar to the way I greased my drive shaft. But what I did was all the the above, but I actually forced in the grease into the yoke while the shaft was still unbolted and fully compressed and supported by a jack stand, with a block of wood jammed between the 2 flanges to keep the grease from re-expanding the slip joint. Once grease was oozing through the seal, which took a lot of force by the way, I stopped, re-expanded the slip yoke, bolted it back up and reinstalled the zerk. That was the only way I could force grease into the spline area and still leave that nice large air pocket in the slip yoke. It was a pain, but the "thunk" went away and hasn't returned since. Since these slip yoke joints are so tight, I might have to do the same thing to the front driveshaft to ensure the splines are full of grease there too.:bigthumb: