[CrippledCruiser]

Removing the starter on 2007 was not simple, once disconnected, getting it out was the problem. It appeared as though it couldn't be done without removing other components.

Also this post was a follow-up to this post which had pictures posted for how to get it out, there were no indications within the posts that a 2010 had a different set-up. I assume you didn't bother to read the entire thread. http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...s.com/forums/engine-performance/36665-starter-removal-repair-2.html#post1917663

I suggest contacting a dealer if this is beyond your ability.

And thats why I call all my friends from there Masshole. Cheer up mate - life is to short.

 

[nickbike]

Thanks for the write up on this. I was starting to get the click and no start, so I figured it was time to do something.

I did the plunger and contact replacement today in my '07 FJ. I used a Victory Lap ND-36SOL kit, however it does not have both of the contacts that are needed. The one that came out of the starter looks to be the mirror image of the one that came in the kit. Luckily that contact was barely worn, so I just cleaned it up a bit and replaced the other contact and the plunger.

Inside the solenoid box. Contact on the left is thin and only has one little dot of clean copper left.

Here's the contact on the right side in the picture above and all the contacts that came in the Victory Lap ND-36SOL kit. None matched. But it was barely worn so I just cleaned it up and left it.

Old and new plunger.

Old and new contact. You can see how thin it has gotten.

 

[Slavik Fed]

Thanks for this thread. I fixed my problem because of the clear instruction. I am adding pics and How To for unhooking it from the bottom and removal from the top bc I found that easier and some people asked about it. Mainly bc the two bolts that hold the starter were easier to remove this way for me. I didn't want to risk stripping them. Also working under the rig is easier in the Arizona 110 if ur under it. THE PROBLEM was a warped bearing seal under the pinion. The electrodes were fine. So I got a new starter for $140.

My 2007 FJ was making a clacking sound when it started up. It wasn't consistent though. Sometimes it was there. Sometimes not at all. The truck started just fine. It sounded like a pulley in that it went faster with acceleration. I turned the AC on/off and no change so unlikely the AC compressor pulley. It just didn't seem the noise was coming from the front where the pulleys are. It was coming from the driver's side. I remembered that the truck wasn't starting right a few weeks prior and I found a ground cable under the starter and on the same wiring harness had come off. I may have fried the starter a bit back then. I reattached the ground and things were OK until two weeks had passed. I started looking up starter problems and found this write up and some on Tacoma forums. I looked up starter sounds and there it was in a Dodge Neon on YouTube. The starter pushes out a rod w a gear on it called a pinion and that starts turning and then engages the flywheel of the transmission/engine which moves the cylinders and valves to get air/gas going. Once the engine fires the pinion is supposed to retract but mine wasn't and would get stuck in there engaging the flywheel making the clacking sound. Using this forum and pics from ferguson and others I went at it from the bottom. Pics r below. Essentially, I disconnected the front of the front driveshaft (Toyota calls it a propeller shaft), and one exhaust bracket. That gave me easy access to the two bolts and wiring holding the starter in place. I pulled the starter out the top of the engine bay. I took the starter apart and it was full of black crap grease powder. But all of it spun easily. Then I saw the issue. There is a bearing under the pinion. It was sealed w a thin disc that had popped off, likely due to mud buildup, and was rattling around not letting the pinion back in to retract after the engine started. You could actually see where the pinion gear had scraped curves into it. The bearing seal must have popped in and out and that's why the clacking would be there inconsistently. I'm guessing the mud caked up the bearings and they bounced around in there until they pushed it off.

I started the pics with disconnect your battery and the location of the starter from the top in the engine bay (one way to work on it) and the driver front wheel well (which I saw people do at a Tacoma forum). This is for us nonmechanics so we know where it is located.

 

[Slavik Fed]

I went underneath front driver's side from this spot.

Looking up and right to the front of the engine you can see the starter up in there and you can easily see the two bolts to take off. First I'm pointing at the bottom bolt then the top. You can see the front of the front driveshaft to the right and orange mud covered exhaust to the left.

I started by putting the truck in 4 wheel drive to lock the front driveshaft, which lets me unbolt it without it turning. I put the truck in Park w the E brake on. 2 of the 4 bolts are shown. I unbolted it and set it to the right. This gave me more leverage for a breaker bar to undo the two starter bolts. There's the bottom bolt w a finger on it and the top w a breaker bar handle pointing at it.

 

[Slavik Fed]

I removed the two wires from the wiring harness attached to the starter and a ground to the engine for ease of removal of the starter later.

Here is ground with a breaker bar handle pointing at it's general location and a closeup of the bolt.

Then I removed the larger wire to the starter attached w a bolt and the smaller wire attached w a clip. The clip is a push button type. Push the little button down hard and it will come off. Don't yank too hard bc you might tear off the small wires it attaches to.

 

[Slavik Fed]

I removed the exhaust bracket. This took 15 minutes and was worth it for better access to the starter. It was held in w three bolts. With the exhaust bracket out of the way, undo the two bolts holding the starter. Upper and Lower. Wiggle the starter a bit. It sorta falls downward and out to the driver wheel well. Then I walked it up and front through the driver front wheel well. I unbolted and moved the oil drip bracket and breather tubes for more clearance after tucking away the wiring harness into the wheel well. Starter is out.

 

[Slavik Fed]

Looking at the starter, the pinion gear teeth looked OK. Not worn or chipped. This is usually a softer metal than the flywheel bc if that chips you have to crack into the engine.

I popped the top off the electrode bay and it looked clean. The electrodes weren't worn down.

So I cracked the motor where the copper coils are and it was full of black crap grease. I could see where one of the two rubber breather nipples had let water in. But all that spun freely.

The final pic was the culprit. The bearings had likely gotten jammed w mud and popped their bearing seal off. The bearing seal is very thin. It was warped with several circular metal on metal grind marks on it where the pinion gear was grinding it. I was able to pop the bearing seal back in pretty easily and it just fell right out. In the field I think I could have snipped it out and driven home. Since I couldn't find that bearing, I got a new starter but kept the old one for the electrodes. Thanks everyone for this stellar site and all the work you guys and gals do here. Thanks to my lady Spring. Helps to have a gear head woman. See you on the trail.

 

[chriskrossapplesauce]

This thread was awesome! After about 4 hours of work (3 hours were just removal time) I got my truck to start again without having to spend $100+ on a new starter motor!

 

[slymoan]

Great thread! Thanks for the pic!

I did this job last night. I understand and respect that there is more than one way to skin a cat, so for me, this job was made WAY easier by taking off the front driver tire and removing the starter through wheelwell as opposed to trying to get it out the top or the bottom of the engine bay. I went in from underneath to access the top and lower starter bolt. I left the exhaust completely intact and found enough wiggle room to undo the two bolts albeit it a 1/4 turn at a time. I accessed the electric clip and the ground wire nut through the sidewall. Simply undid the bolt holding the brake lines in place in the wheelwell, gently moved the brake lines off to the side and out pops the starter.

Time to get the starter out including jacking up the FJC and removing tire etc, 20 mins. Got it all back together in the same time as well.

 

[Blown383]

Has anyone found the correct banana shaped contact to rebuild the starter? The Victory Lap ND-36SOL kit is missing one correct contact.

-B

 

[Blown383]

So I found the correct contact parts and while trying to take off the bottom 14mm bolt it rounded off like a hot knife through butter!



Gotta pick up a bolt extractor kit tomorrow and try again. In my case I will have to pull the starter through the top since I have the Icon S2 system in the way.

 

[ROMAD]

Old thread post but this seemed like the best place to share the information.

I found a source for the Denso starter rebuild parts for the 07-08 starters. These may fit the other models but I do not know for sure.

Source: https://www.aspwholesale.com/starters/denso/osgr/starter-p10016.html

Thats the whole brand new starter but if you click on the Parts List tab below the picture of the starter you will find that they list an entire rebuild kit as well as all the individual parts and part numbers.

If all you want is the contacts and some of the other small parts then the indiviual parts are probably the way to go. They do require a $10 minimum to ship so keep that in mind.

Here are the two contacts:
Part Number 66-82756 ($0.72) https://www.aspwholesale.com/contact-nd-p6980.html
Part Number 66-82780 ($1.29) https://www.aspwholesale.com/contact-nd-p8800.html

The plunger pn# listed in the rebuild kit (66-82609) doesnt appear to be available from ASP. I believe I may have found the correct one listed under a different pn# as it is listed for Denso OSGR 2.0kW starter and the OAL is very similar. I am not 100% sure that what I found is the correct plunger but it appears to be very close. Only thing I am not sure of is if the width of the plunger contact is the same. This one is listed at 34.8mm wide but I dont know how wide the OEM one is. Maybe someone will see this and measure the width at the contact ring?

Here is a soucre that lists the same plunger pn# (66-82609) as the rebuild kit and details including a 97mm OAL but they dont sell to the public.

This plunger is listed by ASP as fitting the Denso OSGR 2.0kW starter and is 96.7mm OAL with 34.8mm diameter
https://www.aspwholesale.com/plunger-nd-p5861.html

The complete Denso rebuilt kit is linked here: https://www.aspwholesale.com/starter-rebuild-kits/denso/osgr/repair-kit-p13358.html
The parts list for the kit is detailed on the specifications tab under the picture of the starter and appears to be very comprehensive.

For historical sake, here are the parts list and Denso part numbers for the 07-08 starter rebuilt kit

1, 6-102-4 ~ BALL BEARING, ARMATURE
2, 6-104-4W ~ BALL BEARING, DRIVE
1, 62-82801 ~ BUSHING, DRIVE
1, 6-638-4W ~ BALL BEARING, ARMATURE
1, 66-82350 ~ SOLENOID TERMINAL
1, 66-82352 ~ SOLENOID TERMINAL
1, 66-82410 ~ GASKET, SOLENOID COVER
1, 66-82550 ~ SPRING, PLUNGER
1, 66-82609 ~ PLUNGER
1, 66-82756 ~ CONTACT, SOLENOID
1, 66-82780 ~ CONTACT, SOLENOID
2, 68-8225 ~ BRUSH, GROUND
2, 68-8226 ~ BRUSH, FIELD
1, 71-82301 ~ BOOT, MOTOR LEAD
1, 71-82307 ~ GROMMET, MOTOR LEAD
1, 71-82312 ~ DRAIN TUBE
1, 71-82317 ~ DRAIN TUBE
2, 71-82507 ~ O-RING, BR HLDR SCREW
2, 71-82510 ~ O-RING, FIELD CASE
2, 71-82512 ~ O-RING, SOL TERM POSTS
1, 72-82400 ~ INSULATOR, SOL TERM (EXT.)
2, 72-82409 ~ INSULATOR, SOL TERM (INT.)
1, 72-82415 ~ INSULATOR, SOL TERM (EXT.)
1, 76-82802 ~ STEEL BALL, SOLENOID PLUNGER
1, 76-82806 ~ RETAINER RING, DRIVE
1, 76-82807 ~ STOP COLLAR
2, 85-2402 ~ HEX NUT, SOLENOID TERMINAL
2, 85-4504 ~ CONICAL WASHER, SOLENOID TERMINAL

 

[Gryff]

Thread resurrection.

I have a 2012 FJ. I have followed all the instructions on this forum in an effort to remove the starter. Looked at the couple of Youtube videos about the subject. I have the starter completely disconnected. However I cannot figure out the tetris required to actually remove the started from the vehicle.

I have rotated, twisted and fiddled with it to get it in a position compatible for removal. I do not see a method I can get it out without either removing the exhaust manifold or the steering column.

Does anyone have some advice for me on this?

Here are a couple of photos that show my plight:

 

[Blown383]

You can fish out the starter via the top by loosing that 10mm bolt that holds down the brake line tee.

-B

Thread resurrection.

I have a 2012 FJ. I have followed all the instructions on this forum in an effort to remove the starter. Looked at the couple of Youtube videos about the subject. I have the starter completely disconnected. However I cannot figure out the tetris required to actually remove the started from the vehicle.

I have rotated, twisted and fiddled with it to get it in a position compatible for removal. I do not see a method I can get it out without either removing the exhaust manifold or the steering column.

Does anyone have some advice for me on this?

Here are a couple of photos that show my plight:

 

[Gryff]

You can fish out the starter via the top by loosing that 10mm bolt that holds down the brake line tee.

-B

Thanks for the tip.

I have all the brake line mounts loose; on top and in the wheel well. The location of that is where it happened to be when I took the photo (no bolt head visible in the photo). There simply does not appear to be enough room between the steering column and the upper control arm mount to come out the side.

Right now it looks like I need to take the exhaust manifold out to get the starter past that. I'm hoping someone can tell me that they've done this successfully on a 2012 without removing the exhaust manifold or upper control arm.

 

[Blown383]

Oh!! I missed that part! If you have to drop the upper control arm it’s pretty easy. Just remove the battery and pull the long bolt out towards the front end of the car. It’s been a while since I’ve done the starter so my memory is a bit fuzzy.

-B

You can fish out the starter via the top by loosing that 10mm bolt that holds down the brake line tee.

-B

Thanks for the tip.

I have all the brake line mounts loose; on top and in the wheel well. The location of that is where it happened to be when I took the photo (no bolt head visible in the photo). There simply does not appear to be enough room between the steering column and the upper control arm mount to come out the side.

Right now it looks like I need to take the exhaust manifold out to get the starter past that. I'm hoping someone can tell me that they've done this successfully on a 2012 without removing the exhaust manifold or upper control arm.

 

[Gryff]

Oh!! I missed that part! If you have to drop the upper control arm it’s pretty easy. Just remove the battery and pull the long bolt out towards the front end of the car. It’s been a while since I’ve done the starter so my memory is a bit fuzzy.

-B

I used to do a lot of work on my '67 truck many years ago and I'm confident with a wrench. I know what I'm in for with the manifold. However I have never had to do any fancy suspension work like the front is on this vehicle.

Which do you think is easier: Control arm or manifold?

-Gryf

 

[Blown383]

Control arm by far is WAAAAY easier and you have ZERO chances of snapping a stud or coming across seized nuts like you would on the manifold. Plus if you yanked the manifold you'll need new gaskets to replace the old one.

-B

I used to do a lot of work on my '67 truck many years ago and I'm confident with a wrench. I know what I'm in for with the manifold. However I have never had to do any fancy suspension work like the front is on this vehicle.

Which do you think is easier: Control arm or manifold?

-Gryf

 

[FJtest]

B-383 -

Back in Post #51 you mentioned that you found all the component parts required to rebuild the solenoid section of the starter (both contacts, plunger, contact bolt insulators, etc.).

However, you never mentioned the supplier.

Care to share the source? Granted, it was two years ago ...

Also, what was the final solution to the "rounded bolt head" problem?

 

[Blown383]

I purchased the rebuild kit from https://leeautoelectric.com/ and if I recall correctly it was about $20 shipped. Just give them a call or email them for the correct part number.

As for removing the stubborn 14mm bolt I highly suggest hitting it with some PB blaster and using a 6 point socket with a breaker bar to bust it loose. Once my bolt started to round off I had to use a bolt extractor and made the mistake of using one of those bolt extractors that supposedly bite into the rounded bolt head as you tightened it. What it did was completely shave off the edges of the bolt. :frown So I ended up using the Lisle 19250 bolt extractor that had to be hammered on. That gave a firm bite on the head and I was able to take it off with a long-handled ratchet and a long pipe. It was a royal pain in the ass!

Here's the offending bolt:


The bolt extractor I used


What the bolt looked like after I beat the extractor on with a small sledgehammer


and how the extractor fit over the rounded off bolt head.


Hopefully, that helps!


-B

B-383 -

Back in Post #51 you mentioned that you found all the component parts required to rebuild the solenoid section of the starter (both contacts, plunger, contact bolt insulators, etc.).

However, you never mentioned the supplier.

Care to share the source? Granted, it was two years ago ...

Also, what was the final solution to the "rounded bolt head" problem?