Alloy wheels (usually an alloy of aluminum) are typically lighter and more corrosion resistant than steel wheels.

The wheel and tire together are often referred to as "unsprung weight". Because unsprung weight needs to be rotated up to speed, 1lb of wheel mass equals about 4lbs truck mass (IIRC). Pound for pound, rotating weight will have a much bigger impact on performance and fuel effeciency than "sprung" weight on the rest of the vehicle.

A problem with alloy wheels on OHVs is that they are typically more brittle than steel and will crack under stress rather than bend. Cracks cannot easily be fixed on the trail (or elsewhere). Steel will typically bend first, and bends can be "fixed" on the trail with a hammer. This is more significant off the road because rim damage is more likely when running at low air pressures.

 

two advantages of the steel wheel are:
1. less expensive to replace if damaged
2. no spokes to get scratched up on the rocks

I am curious to know the wt. of the two types of stock wheels for the FJ, sometimes alloy wheels can be very heavy. If someone has the wt. please post up.


:fart:

 

The only wheels that weigh significantly less than steel are forged aluminum, or forged aluminum/magnesium alloy. Cast aluminum wheels are fairly weighty due to the low relative strength of aluminum as compared with steel.
Steel can be pounded back to shape if damaged, cast or forged aluminum cannot. There are some light weight cast wheels out there, but you will be sacrificing strength. Forged are usually high $$$$$$'s (like the wheels on my porsche 911).

 

what about on the road just for daily driving. Is there a disadvantage of steel wheels at higher speeds or during any other daily drive conditions?

 

"Unsprung weight" also includes: axles,brakes,and a portion of the weight of driveshafts,spings,shocks,suspension links.

 

Some of the metals (magnesium, etc.) have different heating/cooling rates, heat retention, etc. This (and weight) made "mags" popular on sports cars years ago... then adopted by the mainstream.

We don't race FJs, so cooling isn't an issue.
The weight difference between the mainstream (cheaper) alum wheels is negligible (in the big scheme) of the unsprung weight.

So, it comes down to use and style - if you don't wheel, it's all style, e.g. go with what you like. If you do wheel, well, the steel wheels get the nod - they don't crack, they can be ground, sanded and painted and comparing the two factory FJ wheels, the alloys seem "designed" to kiss the rocks and the steelies are less prone to scraping the face.

Just another man's opinion

 

A lot of people (at least FJ people I know) buy steel wheels based on the belief that they are going to break the alloys...

I don't think this is at all a legitimate concern. It is definitely true that the geometry of the spokes will lead to them scraping rocks and whatnot if wheeled heavily... but I think people put way too much stock in the notion that they're going to break in half, set on fire, explode, etc. The alloys will withstand an insane amount of thrashing.

My solution to cleaning up the scraping on the spokes -

- was to rattle can them. Now they can be, at least to some extent, 'repaired.'

Bottom line - get whatever kind of rim you like!

 

I was just staring at my scratched up rims and concocted this very plan. Now I'll risk being a copy-cat if I paint them like this.

I don't care "I borrowed" the idea for my bumper hoops from wy otto.

How hard was painting the rims? I have to figure out how to best mask them and all that how much sanding etc...

Sorry to hijack, back to the topic at hand..

 

I sanded them with a fairly coarse (60 grit I think) paper, just by hand, didn't really spend a lot of time on it - just messed it up a little. Used Rustoleum automotive primer, and then Rustoleum flat spray paint.

As far as taping, depends on what look you're going for. A lot of people paint the entire rim. That's sort of tricky because you have to tape the curved line around the edge and answer the question of whether to paint the 'inside' (the surface parrallel with the tire tread) of the rim.

The pattern I taped off is actually a little easier to do (and looks cooler IMO). Just 3 pieces of tape per spoke. Then I just threw some tape down randomly in between the spokes to avoid overspray problems...

Its definitely very easy to do - go for it!

 

There is this thread out there as I have been debating the same thing. I have also thought about powder coating, but the rattle can would be less expensive.

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/how-technical-articles/42894-painting-your-fj-wheels-instructions-w-pics.html

 

Thanks for the quick responses. I had the exact scheme tibaal did in mind.

I was going to ask how it is holding up, but I guess it doesn't matter too much. You can always hit it with the paint again.

 

That's right!

The paint scrapes away easily under contact with rocks or something, which is to be expected... like you said though, super easy to fix if that happens.

As far as holding up to weather and road use, I've had zero problems there. It's been about a year and a half since I painted the first one like this, there is no fading or any other problems.

 

For those of you that stumble onto this thread looking for info on FJ steel wheels. I just purchased some, to put on my 87 4Runner. I was also curious what the weight was, that's how I found this before I bought them. I just weighed one, and it's 29.2 pounds. So, they are kinda heavy, but not terrible for a 17". I had some 16" steels from Wheelers Offroad, on one of my Taco's, and they were in the mid 30's I think. Curious what the alloy 17's weigh.....

Anyway, just and FYI.

Peace

 

.. Curious what the alloy 17's weigh.....

..

Me too. 16" alloy as well.

 

Forged Aluminum - are typically the lightest weight rim and will bend instead of break. Also the most expensive typically. The choice of most off road racers.

Cast Aluminum or Magnesium - will break with a significant impact on the rim such as against a rock. Some cast rims weigh more than steel rims. It all depends on how well they are designed.

Steel - are typically heavier and will bend. Also typically the lowest cost rim option.


Contrary to belief, painted steel rims are the most corrosion resistant rim option IMHO. I've seen enough "alloys" here in the northeast where the outside of the rim looks ok, but the tire has a slow leak. The culprit? Road salt which works its way into the bead and slowly corrodes between the tire bead and rim.