Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum banner

Trying to get Demello Rock Sliders mounted

5.5K views 21 replies 8 participants last post by  Iceboy  
#1 ·
So I picked up these sliders from another local FJ owner and just coated them with the Rustoleum earlier today. I should have looked earlier at the FJ but it looks like there's a cable (brake line? I'm super new to this whole car thing so excuse my ignorance) running where I'd screw in the slider. What can I do? It looks pretty immovable. And if it is the break I'm scared to touch it.

Slightly related question - Im not sure which one is left and right. It's hard to tell from the product photos on the Demello site.

Thanks for the help!
Image
Image
Image
Image


Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 
#2 · (Edited)
Just finished installing my sliders from a different manufacturer.
But the brackets start at the front and do not mount over the brake line in the rear. The rear trails behind not being directly attached by a bracket.
Your brackets have a gusset to the plate, which might need to either be removed or relieved on the last bracket to allow the plate to fit up and behind the brake line. Or you might be able to angle the line upward slightly to miss the gusset.
The first photo is the rear and second is the front bracket directly behind wheel opening. When I mounted mine I bedded the bracket plates in water proof grease (green) to help fill any voids and hopefully keep moisture and road salts out.
Hope this helps.
 

Attachments

#4 ·
I just mounted the All Pro sliders and they came with a relocation bracket for those lines.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RocketRob
#5 ·
I don't think you use the mounting holes in your first photo. On mine the front of the slider has a bracket but the rear is cantelevered out w/o a bracket directly underneath. The piece of metal on your bracket I referred to as a gusset in my original post. Worse case you should be able to relocate your cable bracket to another hole in the frame?
 
#6 · (Edited)
Yeah I think I can just move the brake line to a different hole? I've never done this and hope it's fairly straightforward. I'll try tonight

Edit update: those bolts are pretty stuck. I just have a handheld wrench. I think I need to get some penetrating spray stuff.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 
#9 ·
Yes, sorry. let the chemical spray do its work - overnight. Heat can help but not advisable here since the rubber hose. Can you angle the clip a bit up leaving it in the same hole? That might give you enough to ride the hose/line upward to just miss the gusset on the bracket. If it is still against the gusset, you could pad it w/ some rubber hose split and put over the edge of the bracket secured with some black silicone.
 
#14 ·
Yeah we tried a good amount of the Spray stuff and tapping it a bit. My handy friend said he thinks we should try an impact wrench. Maybe home depot rents them? Would it help?

But yeah might have to call in the air strikes! I'll also look into local shops..

Thanks for all the tips!

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 
#16 · (Edited)
@AUStriker, if after using the penetrating oil, you're still having trouble with those bolts, you might try a bolt-grip extractor set like this one. I've had great luck with these. Just make sure whatever set you buy includes sizes you'll need.

Also, these extractors will chew up your bolt head, so you'll need a replacement bolt.
 
#18 ·
So I've got a Milwaukee Impact Driver with a max torque of 1,000 lbs but the bolt still won't budge. Perhaps it's because the driver won't sit perfectly flush against the bolt head because of the plastic lip underneath the doors.

Guess I gotta find a shop to do some thing although I have no idea what they could try.

These suckers won't budge!

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
Image
 
#19 · (Edited)
Dang, I might be here too late.

I'd caution against using impact tools on bolts in the threaded frame holes. They're actually un-threaded holes in the frame with a nut welded on the backside, inside the frame. At least twice on my FJ, seized bolts in those holes resulted in the nuts breaking loose inside the frame while still seized to the bolt... and now you have a bolt that can spin but you can't un-screw! One of them I managed to grab with pliers and unscrew, the other I had to take to a shop to get cut off. My "small" impact driver didn't make a difference, and my "I wasn't asking" impact driver broke the nut off.

I'd vote definitely patience, penetrating oil, and no impact tools! Go for the extractor as last-resort, not impact. Also, if you don't already have some anti-seize coating, order or buy some now and put it on all the bolts that you put into the frame so you won't have to worry about this next time!

You could either try an extension with a bigger impact driver (to get a good seat on the head), and if that fails (or if it breaks the captive nut off the frame), a shop can melt or drill out the stuck bolt.
 
#20 · (Edited)
Thanks for chiming in!

Appreciate the insight! I just tried the impact wrench earlier but it didn't work to get the bolts out.

I've tried spraying several seconds of Blaster oil at least 5 times, with it sitting overnight on 2 different occasions. Using a hand wrench doesn't seem to make any progress at all even after the spray. But is that the only way??

So if I end up getting the bolt off, won't the nut in the backside fall off in the frame and I can't get to it there?

EDIT: yes I've definitely got some anti-seize stuff for the new bolts [emoji16]

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk