What mileage are you getting? What mods are on it now?

Larger tires, more weight, and additional aero drag all have an impact.

For reference, my 2012 is stock with no roof rack and p metric mild all terrains in the stock size. I get high 18s mpg in the winter and high 19s in the summer; over 20 on long interstate trips. 70 percent big city freeway use (occasional stop and go) and 30 percent surface streets.

 

I haven't even had it a week , maybe learning to drive it will make a big difference. But I drove it home on a 300 mile interstate trip and all I got was Hi sixteens. I thought maybe the gears were changed to make it absurdly low ( the previous owner did tow a lot with it) but the speedometer is spot on. It's a 07 manual with crazy high miles... and in response to other posts... I knew the mileage would be bad, I did not know it would be this bad. Any thoughts at all are appreciated!

 

You don`t buy an FJ for MPG.

 

kind of a popular subject here, do a search and read up

summary (as already stated most succinctly by Sanderhawk above): people have proposed all sorts of ideas, but none have resulted in anything meaningful, the FJ is a brick

And the more you mod, the more your mpg drops. Sad, but true, the most fun things in life come at a cost.

 

But the national gas price avg is 2.59 (2.21 Missouri, 3.55 Cali). Never been a better time to have an FJ.
And you’ll probably find yearly maintenance and repair is low and resale high.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

It's the smiles per gallon.....

 

High 16's, your close to the rated mpg for a 6MT - 17 mpg.

Your doing pretty well I'd say.

 

Yeah, the smiles per gallon are awesome, but all interstate I would have liked to be 20. Thanks to all.

 

2012 TT, 223,000 miles, running KO2 tires. Average 20,5 mpg in mixed driving. Long freeway trips to lower desert for hunting will get up to 23 per gallon. Live in So. Cal.

 

Yeah, I'm jealous! Run airplane fuel or something?

 

I have a 2008 auto with a rtt, 3 inch lift, and 285/70/17 wildpeak mt tires(about 64 pounds each) and I'm getting about 13 mpg highway... and it's my daily

 

Yikes!

 

I've had my 2010 4x4 auto FJ for a little over a year. Whatever lift Icon 2.5 front coilovers and OME springs in the back give it (previous owner installed, I'm thinking 2" or 3"). Tracking every gallon I've bought, mostly city driving, and adjusting for GPS readings, I get a bit over 15mpg.

I had 60+ pound BFG KO2's on it when I got it, dropped to 45# DuraTracs (slightly shorter), and saw ZERO change in actual gas mileage. By the odometer the MPG's got better, but the odometer read short with the taller BFG's, so using GPS readings to compensate, the MPG's are virtually the same.

 

TT = Trail Teams
Option package

 

Regardless of single or dual VVTi engine or auto/manual driveline, the following will maximize MPG:

1. Run tire pressure at the high end of the tire's rating. I run 46 PSI in my "E" load range K02s, stock size while on the road.

2. Upshift at no higher than 2000 or 2200 RPM. This will force you to drive like a grandmother, but will provide a measurable improvement in MPG.

3. Set a max speed limit of 65 MPH. Depending on where you are this will typically force you to spend 90% of your time in the far RH lane, but given the horrendously poor aerodynamics of the FJ drag increases dramatically with speed.

4. As far as possible, minimize the use of the brakes on anything but downgrades.. Watch far ahead for traffic lights, stop signs, slowing traffic, etc. and slowly COAST to a stop whenever possible. Anytime you are actively braking, think of it as trickling a constant stream of pennies out the window. You burned fuel to put forward momentum into the vehicle, and anytime you are braking (on the flat) you are totally wasting that momentum, converting it into heat rather than forward motion.

5. Possibly most valuable is to get an means of monitoring real-time fuel consumption. An inexpensive Bluetooth OBD-II dongle ($25) plugged into the OBD port plus some Android device (phone, small tablet, etc) running the Torque Pro app ($5) will give you instantaneous, long-term, and "trip" fuel consumption data, along with dozens of other parameters like exact coolant temperature, transmission temperature, alternator output voltage, timing advance, etc., etc.

This will allow you to see EXACTLY, in real time, how throttle opening, gear selection, engine speed, load, and vehicle speed affect fuel consumption.

 

#2 for the MT is not a good point. I get better mpg shifting around the 2,500 rpm mark. 2,000 is to low for the MT FJ.

 

I’m in an 09 with 85k and getting 15/16 at best with KO2s. They are a size bigger which contributes to the reading. Used to get much better mileage when I got the FJ I feel; 275 miles to the tank vs 235 nowadays. Was up in the 18/20 range back then. Maybe have a sensor going bad but haven’t had any lights come on. Figure it’s just part of driving an FJ!

 

I can pretty much guarantee that you'll see an immediate improvement in fuel consumption if you replace the two air/fuel sensors in the exhaust system.
The air-fuel sensors have a useful life span of about 7-8 years or 75-100K miles. They don't die suddenly, they slowly degrade and don't provide accurate information to the engine ECU, and fuel economy suffers. They won't trigger the CEL unless the heater burns out, or the response time gets so slow that it fails to meet some stored reference value.

Also, have you cleaned the mass airflow sensor in the intake tract? A dirty MAF sensor will also adversely affect mixture control.

 

I have an '07 MT6, owned since new, relatively low miles, stock size Michelins, OEM roof rack. 17 to 18 is the best I ever average on the highway unless I'm driving 60 mph or less. Around town is closer to 16. Towing my 6x12 enclosed motorcycle trailer it drops to 13. Ouch! All the normally mentioned driving techniques will help keep you above 15 but I think 20 is an optimistic target for one of these vehicles in normal use. Make sure your air cleaner is in good shape and you are not carrying hundreds of pounds of unused gear around. Using ethanol free gas can get you an extra 1 or 2 mpg but won't save you any money.

 

Jade (2013 auto). Bone stock I never saw above much above 18mpg and I have a light RH foot. Combined always seemed to be in the 17's. As I added weight I'm down in the 14-15's. I try not to drive over 60 even on the freeways, more for the wind noise.

Jade is not a daily driver since I've been retired and only sees 50-55 when going to/from our off road rides.

I took @FJtest advice and got a Samsung Tab E, Torque Pro and BAFX dongle for the reasons he stated.

My Dodge Dakota (stock) only averaged 16 mpg combined. An older one with 390 gears did worse.

edit: Both Dakotas were 4.7L

Enjoy your FJ, smiles per mile ?

 

I've got a '13 TT with 285/75/16 trail grapplers, and I get 14 no matter what I do, how fast I drive, or how slow. I'm rocking on 115k miles, thinking a tune up may be in short order to help.

 

2008 MT6AWD - it gets 15mpg no matter how we drive it. City, highway, 2 track, 15mpg is what it does, basically since new. I think we got 22 once with a 20mph tailwind for 200 miles but other than no better.

 

2014 4WD auto ... after initial 6K mile break-in, on stock Dunlop tires, without roof-rack or any other mods, driven conservatively (65 max on freeway, gentle starts, etc.) was able to consistently achieve mid-23 MPG.

With substantial mods (aluminum roof-rack, hard-shell RTT, aluminum armor, fridge, load range E KO2 tires, on-board air compressor, etc.) I can still consistently achieve slightly over 21 MPG on flat So. California freeways, again with very conservative driving technique. Any head-wind, on-ramp acceleration contests, etc. will affect fuel consumption pretty dramatically.

With a real-time display of instantaneous fuel consumption (through the OBD interface), you will very quickly learn what combinations of engine RPM, throttle position, engine load, and gear will push fuel consumption down into the single-digit range, and how to avoid those conditions.

I kept close track of fuel consumption during the '19 FJ Summit (So. California to Ouray), and got an on-highway average of 20.66 MPG, with the AC on for 90% of the trip. I weighed the rig In Cortez, CO and was shocked to see 5540 lbs. ( 2 people & a dog) with a full fuel tank.

 

 

I’ve been driving Landcruisers since 1980 and have owned 6 in the 40-years driving them (three were FJs, last one a 2014). NO Landcruiser 4-door or two-door variant will ever get “good” gas mileage whatever you do period. These vehicles are NOT designed for gas economy. The best mileage I ever got was with my 2008 FJ. I got 20 mpg with a 6MT with 275-75 BF KOs, driving at 63mph for 300 mi on one tank of gas. The driving was at night on a dry crisp cool night. I love Landcruisers despite their poor fuel economy.

 

I have a 2008 my wife complains about mpg, my response is as long as we can purchase fuel without lines don't worry about mpg. It's a safe comfortable off road vehicle. I weight the F-350 7.3 liter loaded with fuel in Cortez, Co. 8300 lbs, fiver 13940lbs loaded 22240lbs we smile at 9.5 mpg with the RV, Clark. lol Oh btw nice scales in Cortez no wait time.

 

I've owned my rwd 07 since Jan of 2009. It's by far the best vehicle I've ever owned. I bought it with 20k miles on it. It now has 198k miles, plus I've towed it 4 down behind a motorhome for an additional 30-40k miles. It always gets 20 mpg, ALWAYS. I have never run anything but regular unleaded in it. Had I known before I bought it that Toyota recommended running super unleaded I wouldn't have bought it. It has the original O2 sensors and the original MAP. A couple of months ago I changed the PCV valve and cleaned the throttle body for the first time. The alternator gave up last month. Almost nothing else has failed. I've changed the headlight bulbs and spark plugs 4 times. I did a complete brake job(rotor, calipers, pads, hoses) at 135k and they still had some meat left.
Mods? Bilstein 5100 front shocks, brush guard, Pareto Point Industries Topdog V engine oil bypass filtration system, remote mount spin-on trans filter. I've never changed the oil in less than 10k miles, and I've gone as long as 18k miles. I've run many types of synthetic engine oil. I always run Amsoil ATF and rear gear oil. I have no plan to get rid of it.