[five-by-five]

So i went to do this mod and the plugs i guess were reversed. the male was mounted and the female plug was the free one. so i still removed he female side (blue and yellow) and hooked it to 12v. but when i turned my truck on the abs light, swirving car light, and vsc light came on and would not go off. also i could not engage a-trac. any thoughts?

I'm just making sure, but does your truck require it?

 

[Guest]

I'm just making sure, but does your truck require it?

yes, it was made pre november (i double checked anyway) i have just been waiting for my warranty to end before i did anything.

 

[five-by-five]

November 06 or 07? My build date is 05/06 and I did the "cut the wire under the hood" method and haven't had a single problem.

 

[Guest]

November 06 or 07? My build date is 05/06 and I did the "cut the wire under the hood" method and haven't had a single problem.

pre november 2006

 

[five-by-five]

What you may be thinking is the male (or female or whatever) might have been the opposite. Reverse your work and try it with the other side.

 

[Guest]

What you may be thinking is the male (or female or whatever) might have been the opposite. Reverse your work and try it with the other side.

thats the thing, there isnt a wire opposite, i stuck with the same color. and yes i have the female end free i promise

 

[Guest]

.... just realized my mistake. its the male side that needs the 12v... dur me.. oh well thanks again guys

 

[five-by-five]

:clap:

I'm glad to hear that you fingered it out!

 

[VoltsAndBolts]

I just did the hack, and all the lights are as indicated in the thread, Woo Hoo! :clap:

I will be out testing it on some trails Sunday (or sooner). I can’t tell you how many times I have read this thread waiting for the warranty to run out.

My thanks to those who experimented on there ride to make it easier for me….Thanks! :bigthumb:

 

[355spider]

I have an 07 TRD. When I am in 4 lo with the diff locked and I psuh ATRAC it lights up a;png with diff lock. I guess they are working together? Yes? So no need for a hack?

 

[RoverGGM]

The TRDs all have the feature built in....and the ones built after.

 

[shid_a_liddle28]

I tried forever today to do this hack. I got all the way to where you remove pin 11 from the connector but I couldn't get that darn thing out so I gave up and just opted for the RR Diff on demand hack. Simple snip of a wire and thats it and its easily reversible.

 

[Erik]

I tried forever today to do this hack. I got all the way to where you remove pin 11 from the connector but I couldn't get that darn thing out so I gave up and just opted for the RR Diff on demand hack. Simple snip of a wire and thats it and its easily reversible.

I finally did this today. If anyone is having trouble with the second release to get pin 11 out of the harness, I found it's a lot easier to release it from the pin side, not the wire side. Practice with one of the unused releases, then do the real thing. There's a post from WKAYE earlier in the thread with a picture of how you want to attack this- I'll quote it below. Using this method takes only a few minutes.

I used an Add-A-Circuit from Autozone to make the connection to the fuse panel easier. Here's a link to a picture of one: Bussmann ATM Fuse Add-A-Circuit You will need to purchase an ATM fuse and push it into the Add-A-Circuit in the socket furthest from the the FJ fuse panel. It's a tight fit that requires some muscle- do it slowly so you don't snap the fuse. The smallest spare fuse I has was 5, and it seems to work OK. I think the original poster used a 3.

If your ABS, Slip, VSC OFF lights come on at the same time when you start the FJ after this mod (see attached picture), it means pin 11 is not getting power. For Add-A-Circuits, try turning it upside down. I'm attaching a picture where you can see how the orientation of the Add-A-Circuit varies based on what row it's in. My CB is connected to the top one, and the ATRAC+RR is the bottom.

Good luck!

I don't know how you were able to release the pin this way. I am a big guy and could only get one hand in there but it was easy to undo the plug and seperate it from the blue holder. However after reading your post and using a paper clip on the primary release side of the wire ,it proved frustrating to say the least. After more time than I care to admit , I finally looked at the pin side of the plug where there was an unused holder (#6) and saw the secondary retainer, in the form of a little ramp , on the opposite side from the primary retainer. See here:

[/IMG]

Now that I knew I had to lift the pin over this ramp , it took all of 30 seconds to release it working from the same side as this ramp. I hope this helps someone else to make things go a little easier. A big THANK YOU ! to all who made the hack possible. It works like a charm.inklove:

 

[ruebarb]

I finally did this today. If anyone is having trouble with the second release to get pin 11 out of the harness, I found it's a lot easier to release it from the pin side, not the wire side. Practice with one of the unused releases, then do the real thing. There's a post from WKAYE earlier in the thread with a picture of how you want to attack this- I'll quote it below. Using this method takes only a few minutes.

I used an Add-A-Circuit from Autozone to make the connection to the fuse panel easier. Here's a link to a picture of one: Bussmann ATM Fuse Add-A-Circuit You will need to purchase an ATM fuse and push it into the Add-A-Circuit in the socket furthest from the the FJ fuse panel. It's a tight fit that requires some muscle- do it slowly so you don't snap the fuse. The smallest spare fuse I has was 5, and it seems to work OK. I think the original poster used a 3.

If your ABS, Slip, VSC OFF lights come on at the same time when you start the FJ after this mod (see attached picture), it means pin 11 is not getting power. For Add-A-Circuits, try turning it upside down. I'm attaching a picture where you can see how the orientation of the Add-A-Circuit varies based on what row it's in. My CB is connected to the top one, and the ATRAC+RR is the bottom.

Good luck!

Nice, still on my list. Maybe I'll get to this in the spring.

 

[CactusJK]

Can you just cut the wire from pin 11 and spice on the add a fuse wire? i.e., leave the pin in place.

How does this mod differ from the "cut" hack?

 

[Erik]

Can you just cut the wire from pin 11 and spice on the add a fuse wire? i.e., leave the pin in place.

How does this mod differ from the "cut" hack?

Yes, as long as you cut and splice it on the correct side of the harness, it will work fine.

Using the method in this thread, there are no cuts, so you could more easily revert to the original configuration. I think there was originally some hope that Toyota would release a flash upgrade for the computer to enable this feature. If that happened, you could revert your pin 11 to its original location, install the update, and run like the newer FJs. However, that has not happened, and I doubt it ever will, so value of the no-cut method today is primarily to keep the factory wiring "clean."

If you cut here, as opposed to the cut method posted elsewhere, the only real difference is that the cut happens inside the cab instead of under the hood. I suppose if the cut wires were not properly protected, the connection might last longer inside the cab.

I was very tempted to simply cut inside the cab until I figured out how easy it is to get pin 11 out of the harness. It's the same amount of time to pull out the pin and tape or to cut, strip, and splice, so I would do whatever you feel will get you the best connection. People have been doing this hack long enough that we know it works with no ill effects, and I have a hard time imagining a scenario where you would want to reverse it without a trace. Even if you sell the FJ in a couple years (crazy talk!), what buyer or dealer is going to crawl under there to check for this mod and care about it?

 

[Swingshiftworker]

I did the "cut" hack: Rear Locker + ATRAC - Write up - TTORA Forum.

My impression from the instructions was that it was much easier to do that than the "no cut" hack. All you have to do is cut one wire and tap one end of the cut wire to another. It was very easy. Just wrapped it all up after completion and you can't even tell it's been done. I made it easily "reversible" by adding plug ends to the cut wire and tap.

As a result, I used ATAC & the Rear Diff Lock simultaneously quiet often on some very steep and slippery hills recently in Death Valley and the hack worked like a charm.

 

[CactusJK]

Okay I am doing this today. Can someone help explain how to remove from the "pin" side. Do I pull on the pin while lifting up and then push it back once over the latch?

I finally did this today. If anyone is having trouble with the second release to get pin 11 out of the harness, I found it's a lot easier to release it from the pin side, not the wire side. Practice with one of the unused releases, then do the real thing. There's a post from WKAYE earlier in the thread with a picture of how you want to attack this- I'll quote it below. Using this method takes only a few minutes.

I used an Add-A-Circuit from Autozone to make the connection to the fuse panel easier. Here's a link to a picture of one: Bussmann ATM Fuse Add-A-Circuit You will need to purchase an ATM fuse and push it into the Add-A-Circuit in the socket furthest from the the FJ fuse panel. It's a tight fit that requires some muscle- do it slowly so you don't snap the fuse. The smallest spare fuse I has was 5, and it seems to work OK. I think the original poster used a 3.

If your ABS, Slip, VSC OFF lights come on at the same time when you start the FJ after this mod (see attached picture), it means pin 11 is not getting power. For Add-A-Circuits, try turning it upside down. I'm attaching a picture where you can see how the orientation of the Add-A-Circuit varies based on what row it's in. My CB is connected to the top one, and the ATRAC+RR is the bottom.

Good luck!

 

[CactusJK]

Need Help releasing this pin!!! it is clearly not obvious after reading these posts over and over and spending too much time on it. Any help is greatly appreciated!!

I finally did this today. If anyone is having trouble with the second release to get pin 11 out of the harness, I found it's a lot easier to release it from the pin side, not the wire side. Practice with one of the unused releases, then do the real thing. There's a post from WKAYE earlier in the thread with a picture of how you want to attack this- I'll quote it below. Using this method takes only a few minutes.

I used an Add-A-Circuit from Autozone to make the connection to the fuse panel easier. Here's a link to a picture of one: Bussmann ATM Fuse Add-A-Circuit You will need to purchase an ATM fuse and push it into the Add-A-Circuit in the socket furthest from the the FJ fuse panel. It's a tight fit that requires some muscle- do it slowly so you don't snap the fuse. The smallest spare fuse I has was 5, and it seems to work OK. I think the original poster used a 3.

If your ABS, Slip, VSC OFF lights come on at the same time when you start the FJ after this mod (see attached picture), it means pin 11 is not getting power. For Add-A-Circuits, try turning it upside down. I'm attaching a picture where you can see how the orientation of the Add-A-Circuit varies based on what row it's in. My CB is connected to the top one, and the ATRAC+RR is the bottom.

Good luck!

 

[CactusJK]

I got it!