[FJP 2k10]

Does anyone know what needs to be removed to be able to replace a broken rear wheel stud? Is it just the caliper and rotor? Is there enough room behind the axle flange to push the new stud through?

Regards,

jp

Any pics would be greatly appreciated.

 

[wickedpsi]

caliper, rotor and parking brake shoe assembly. yes, there is enough room to fit a new stud through.

 

[FJP 2k10]

Do you remove the whole parking brake assembly, or just the shoes? Do both shoes have to be removed.?

Thx,

jp

 

[wickedpsi]

well it all sorta comes out together, so yes, both shoes get removed. i dont think you can remove just one shoe since theyre connected with springs.

 

[Datajockeys]

Shoes = Pads?

 

[iwashmycar]

Shoes = Pads?

No. there is a drum brake inside the rear disk

 

[FJP 2k10]

anybody have pics of that area?

jp

 

[Layonnn]

IIRC,
Unbolt the two bolts attaching the brake caliper.
Remove the brake disc
You then have access to the lug studs and can easily replace.

 

[iwashmycar]

Should look something like this once you pull off the rotor

 

[FJP 2k10]

Thanks for the pic, looks like I can push whats left of the stud out (in) without having to remove the parking brake shoes. Possibly from the 12 or 6 o'clock position...

jp

 

[KamelBerries]

I actually had to do this myself and I can say it is not that hard to do. You just need to have an idea of what to do. The dealership wanted $150 to install this. I already have a torque drill so I was able to do it fairly easily. The hard part is getting everything off like the rotor, but once you have everything off it's fairly simple. I can confidently say you do NOT need to take the shoes off at all. You can leave them on. Mind you I have only done it for the rear but park the stud around the 7 to 8 o'clock position (lower left corner of the wheel) and then remove all the parts. You will see that if you slide the shoe around you have enough room to knock out the broken stud as well as insert the new one. You will need plyers and possibly a couple screwdrivers to try and move it around so you can slide the stud through the back but it really isn't as hard as it sounds. Personally I think it surely beats the heck out of taking off your shoes and trying to put all that mess back together. Then once the stud is through you pull it though and use a spacer with a sacrificial lug nut to torque it all down and pull the stud all the way in. You will see it slowly seat itself in the back as it pulls closer and closer slowly. Just wanted to share my experience in case anyone else broke a rear stud like I did. Cost me $10 for the stud from the dealer.

 

[Eos@Dawn]

I actually had to do this myself and I can say it is not that hard to do. You just need to have an idea of what to do. The dealership wanted $150 to install this. I already have a torque drill so I was able to do it fairly easily. The hard part is getting everything off like the rotor, but once you have everything off it's fairly simple. I can confidently say you do NOT need to take the shoes off at all. You can leave them on. Mind you I have only done it for the rear but park the stud around the 7 to 8 o'clock position (lower left corner of the wheel) and then remove all the parts. You will see that if you slide the shoe around you have enough room to knock out the broken stud as well as insert the new one. You will need plyers and possibly a couple screwdrivers to try and move it around so you can slide the stud through the back but it really isn't as hard as it sounds. Personally I think it surely beats the heck out of taking off your shoes and trying to put all that mess back together. Then once the stud is through you pull it though and use a spacer with a sacrificial lug nut to torque it all down and pull the stud all the way in. You will see it slowly seat itself in the back as it pulls closer and closer slowly. Just wanted to share my experience in case anyone else broke a rear stud like I did. Cost me $10 for the stud from the dealer.

It doesn't look possible at first glance but the above is 100% doable.
Thank you!

 

[Kaiju]

Remove the front shoe if you don't have the space to push out the stud. The rear shoe is connected to the parking brake cable, which requires removing the front shoe anyway.

 

[FJtest]

And DO NOT pound the broken stud out with a hammer, or pound the new stud in, or there is a high probability of damaging the wheel bearing and the possibility of bending the axle flange.

Use a C-clamp type stud removal/installation tool to press the remains of the old stud out without applying impact to anything. These tools can usually be 'borrowed' from most auto parts stores.

 

[Shadetree0815]

Should look something like this once you pull off the rotor

Should look something like this once you pull off the rotor

Currently replacing my wheel studs and the thinner shroud covers one of the access holes no matter how I rotate it. Does it matter which one it covers? Can't find any information about it anywhere

 

[FJtest]

Trying to understand ... "Thinner shroud" ... do you mean the brake backing plate?

And which "access holes" do you mean?

 

[maxatlof]

I had a bolt on the back left tire break the other day as I was driving 50 mph down the interstate. By the grace of God the wheel stayed in the wheel hub and I was able to drift over to the shoulder and come to a screeching stop. Could have been so much worse, incredibly lucky.

Anyway, I've got everything stripped down to just the e-brake assembly still in place. I was able to knock out the broken stud but how in the world are you getting the new one back there to put it through the hole? I saw someone mentioned put the hole at like the 7-8 o'clock position but that doesn't work at all. I'm stumped on how I get the new ones in there without removing the e-brake shoes which sounds like a nightmare. Thanks.

 

[iwashmycar]

I had a bolt on the back left tire break the other day as I was driving 50 mph down the interstate. By the grace of God the wheel stayed in the wheel hub and I was able to drift over to the shoulder and come to a screeching stop. Could have been so much worse, incredibly lucky.

Anyway, I've got everything stripped down to just the e-brake assembly still in place. I was able to knock out the broken stud but how in the world are you getting the new one back there to put it through the hole? I saw someone mentioned put the hole at like the 7-8 o'clock position but that doesn't work at all. I'm stumped on how I get the new ones in there without removing the e-brake shoes which sounds like a nightmare. Thanks.

Read this again.... it sounds like you need to probably try and pry/shift the brake shoe over some to get enough space to get the stud through.

I actually had to do this myself and I can say it is not that hard to do. You just need to have an idea of what to do. The dealership wanted $150 to install this. I already have a torque drill so I was able to do it fairly easily. The hard part is getting everything off like the rotor, but once you have everything off it's fairly simple. I can confidently say you do NOT need to take the shoes off at all. You can leave them on. Mind you I have only done it for the rear but park the stud around the 7 to 8 o'clock position (lower left corner of the wheel) and then remove all the parts. You will see that if you slide the shoe around you have enough room to knock out the broken stud as well as insert the new one. You will need plyers and possibly a couple screwdrivers to try and move it around so you can slide the stud through the back but it really isn't as hard as it sounds. Personally I think it surely beats the heck out of taking off your shoes and trying to put all that mess back together. Then once the stud is through you pull it though and use a spacer with a sacrificial lug nut to torque it all down and pull the stud all the way in. You will see it slowly seat itself in the back as it pulls closer and closer slowly. Just wanted to share my experience in case anyone else broke a rear stud like I did. Cost me $10 for the stud from the dealer.

🤷‍♂️