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4.88 gears..... Rest of the story

15K views 24 replies 12 participants last post by  DAGORED  
Just say no to crush sleeves. Another thing is, if the installer overtightens the pinion nut, then the sleeve becomes too short, thus more play than needed.

I just completed a re-gear on mine and went 4.56. (315/75/16 KM2's). I got the set from justdifferentials.com and started off with the mini-rebuild kit. Before I was done I wound up getting the master rebuild kit which included the pinion bearings. Their kits come with the solid spacers instead of the crush-sleeve type. Pinion bearings are hard to salvage upon removal and it is recommended that you go ahead and order new ones. Mine were all simply worn out, including the front diff bearings.

My only glitch is that now I have a "VSC Off" dash light permanently. I'm sure it's a sensor wire, but not sure which one. Anyone have some insight on this?
 
No changes in any of my lights, A-track or locker operation after the swap.
Turns out my ADD switch/motor crapped out. It was causing the VSC light to come on because it had "locked" the collar on the front axle connecting the diff to the front drive shaft. The t-case was still in 2HI, so no real damage to anything, but when parts aren't where they should be, the sensors go haywire.

Now I just have to figure out how to fix the ADD and the additional problem of why I'm not getting power at the ADD switch. Ughh.
 
Excellent, thanks Lee! I was not looking forward to dropping the coin on a new ADD after just spending all that $$$ for the gears. Tracing the power interruption will be the next challenge.

[update] my buddy just soldered the connections on his spare "bad" ADD actuator and now we have a good one we can install. I'll pull mine off and do the same thing and see if this fixes it. He's been studying the diagram and thinks that the ECU/tcase won't send 12v power to the ADD if it is not working properly. Thus why we have 12V at the fuse panel but not the wiring connector above the diff. Will keep y'all posted.