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engine bay rust and maintenance

17K views 18 replies 9 participants last post by  norm356  
#1 ·
hi everyone just bought an FJ cruiser happy to be apart of the group! i had the dealer meticulously detail the underbody and special coat rust which was very minimal. should i just request them to bay as well ?

wanting to get feedback about the engine bay of how bad you all think it is and what by the looks should i think of replacing soon. is it smart to replace all bolts or just clean. and also clean the oxidation on aluminum block etc. also if this is just completely normal thanks !!!

i know there are some other forum questions on topic. however wanting to get opinions of my specific FJ ill post pics of engine.
 

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#3 ·
Congrats! That’s a bit more than usual so if the dealer is willing to take care of the rust that’ll save you some work. I wouldn’t be too concerned with some of the mounting brackets, but rusted bolts can be a real pain to remove. Also rust like that on the exposed body (adjacent to fuse box on drivers and just underneath power steering reservoir on passenger) is definitely in need of treatment. I know you said dealer took care of underbody rust but those spots make me curious about what happened/is happening underneath? Living up here in the NE is brutal on our beloved FJs....I’ve just spent the last 3 days underneath mine prepping for winter :crying Glad you’re paying attention to rust, and hope you have many years of enjoyment with yours :wink
 
#8 ·
Congrats! That’s a bit more than usual so if the dealer is willing to take care of the rust that’ll save you some work. I wouldn’t be too concerned with some of the mounting brackets, but rusted bolts can be a real pain to remove. Also rust like that on the exposed body (adjacent to fuse box on drivers and just underneath power steering reservoir on passenger) is definitely in need of treatment. I know you said dealer took care of underbody rust but those spots make me curious about what happened/is happening underneath? Living up here in the NE is brutal on our beloved FJs....I’ve just spent the last 3 days underneath mine prepping for winter /forums/images/FJCruiser2/smilies/tango_face_crying.png Glad you’re paying attention to rust, and hope you have many years of enjoyment with yours /forums/images/FJCruiser2/smilies/tango_face_wink.png
Personally i would replce all brakets you can if not use a good rust killer on it. Also if you can replace the bolts with stainless it keeps them from freezing up so bad. If your in a state with a lot of salt in the winter just think of your FJ as a boat in salt water. You will always need to keep it as clean as possible. And if you pay attention to what bolts the boats use it's stainless.
That would be my advice.

thank you both for the advice!
i guess first i’ll contact dealer and see if they can do a little extra in that area for me and go from there... next

on my side of replacing bolts where we thinking of the ones on the actual block? or like the starter etc or just wait till those items have to be replaced? and just coat things when needed and what spray is recommended? i know wd40 is normal go to though it does catch dirt or cause too much imo.
ive read someone said white vinegar soak cloths with and wrap...
 
#5 ·
Personally i would replce all brakets you can if not use a good rust killer on it. Also if you can replace the bolts with stainless it keeps them from freezing up so bad. If your in a state with a lot of salt in the winter just think of your FJ as a boat in salt water. You will always need to keep it as clean as possible. And if you pay attention to what bolts the boats use it's stainless.
That would be my advice.
 
#10 ·
If the bolts are rated or holding something heavy/structural, Don't replace with stainless...
Replace with stock bolts if necessary, and lube the threads.

Don't touch the aluminium - the oxide protects the metal beneath.
 
#7 ·
Hi Rev_1211, welcome from central Ohio!
Others already posted excellent advice. If the dealer is doing a good job at a good price I'd have them keep going. I'd also be tempted to replace the brackets that attach to the body, but have no idea how big/expensive that rabbit hole might be on your budget.
 
#12 ·
Break Away is an excellent cleaning lubricant spray that does not collect dust. It can be difficult to find but worth the search. For bolts definitely always use OE and coat the threads with Never Seize. Glad you’re escaping the salt zone, but do keep an eye on known rusty spots. GL!
 
#14 ·
Your engine bay looks similar to mine. Most of the exposed metal has been subject to some form of surface rust. I cleaned mine up using a small wire brush. I painted black with rust paint using a brush what I could. Then protect everything with some Fluid Film spray. Hose clamps will require replacement, I haven't done mine yet. Oxidation on exposed aluminum is actually good, but ugly...don't remove it though.
 
#19 ·
Actually, if you wire brush off really cruddy aluminum corrosion, a new protective layer will develop immediately (the thickness needed for protection is incredibly thin, like just a few atoms thick, and it forms so fast that it has been said no truly pure aluminum has ever been seen by the naked eye).

When removing it can be a problem is in the case of chafing, from two parts rubbing, and continually wearing off the top layer, as the oxide works like a grinding compound (which, of course, it is) and eventually saws through the aluminum (with the immediately formed new oxide layer helping it to do so, each time it chafes). But an exposed surface, like the heads, block and intake manifold aren't subjected to rubbing like that.

My concern, when I bought mine, which had a thick layer of really cruddy oxide all over it, was that some very caustic solution was applied to it by someone before I got it, during washing, and I wanted to make sure all of whatever that was, was gone, so a good treatment with wire brushes later, it looks WAY better, and I can rest easy now.


Norm