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Rides great. Doesn't wander a bit. I drive 32 miles highway each way to and from work (current odometer is about 19K) and she tracks great through traffic. In fact it rides so good it makes me wonder if the alignment was done correctly after I first put on my lift (about 14K ago).

-Norm
Thanks for answering. I will be going in for my 4th alignment adjustment in 5 weeks after I get my front lift installed this weekend. I'm experiencing quite a bit of bump steer with my newest alignment....gonna need to crank down the Caster.

Here’s my latest alignment specs:

Caster (left) 4.0 (right) 4.3
Camber (left) 0.1 (right)0.1
Toe (left) .05 (right) .05
Total Toe .10
 
Thanks for answering. I will be going in for my 4th alignment adjustment in 5 weeks after I get my front lift installed this weekend. I'm experiencing quite a bit of bump steer with my newest alignment....gonna need to crank down the Caster.

Here’s my latest alignment specs:

Caster (left) 4.0 (right) 4.3
Camber (left) 0.1 (right)0.1
Toe (left) .05 (right) .05
Total Toe .10
You cant "Crank down" the caster it is not adjustable unless you have aftermarket UCA's
 
How does it ride on the highway? Looking at your caster spec it looks like it would pull?
Actually all the specs look good. We try and get Camber at zero, and toe at .04 and the caster will end up slightly higher than what he has, but he is still within factory specs, I think the min Caster spec is 1.1 max is 2.6.
 
Actually all the specs look good. We try and get Camber at zero, and toe at .04 and the caster will end up slightly higher than what he has, but he is still within factory specs, I think the min Caster spec is 1.1 max is 2.6.
Doug,

I'm running 285/75-16's with no lift and the alignment shop said that if I wanted Camber close to 0 then my caster will be out of spec (+4.0). By cranking down caster I meant by installing my lift I will lose some Caster which will hopefully drop it back down into spec range.
 
Doug,

I'm running 285/75-16's with no lift and the alignment shop said that if I wanted Camber close to 0 then my caster will be out of spec (+4.0). By cranking down caster I meant by installing my lift I will lose some Caster which will hopefully drop it back down into spec range.
What was camber on your first alignment? I would not think it would be that high.
 
What was camber on your first alignment? I would not think it would be that high.

Here’s the prior alignment specs. (Loose/Wandering feel at highway speed)

Caster (left) 2.7 (right) 3.1
Camber (left) 0.2 (right)0.4
Toe (left) .05 (right) .05
Total Toe .10

Here’s the new alignment specs. (Bumpsteer)

Caster (left) 4.0 (right) 4.3
Camber (left) 0.1 (right)0.1
Toe (left) .05 (right) .05
Total Toe .10
 
Specs on alignment after visit to dealership:

Camber Front L 0.6 R 0.4
Caster Front L 0.7 R 0.7
Toe Front L .03in R .03in
SAI L 11.2 R 12.4
INC. Angle L 11.8 R 12.8

Cross Camber 0.1
Cross Caster 0.0
Cross SAI -1.1
Total Toe .06in

Camber Rear left -0.1
Toe Rear left -.03in

Camber Rear right -0.3
Toe Rear right .11in

Before the adjustment the FJ had a pull to the right. The steering wheel even set a little to the right. Now the steering wheel sits straight. Also from the checks I have done it seems to drive straight. So hopefully if I rotate the tires often they will not wear out to fast. This is with a 3in lift and stock bfg A/T ko's.
 
I never could read that spec sheet so how about this:

FJ Alignment Specs

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
2007

Code:
FJ Cruiser 4X2

FRONT		Specification	Neg. Tolerance	Pos. Tolerance
Left Camber	-0.57°		0.50°		0.50°
Right Camber	-0.57°		0.50°		0.50°

Cross Camber
Left Caster	3.57°		0.50°		0.50°
Right Caster	3.57°		0.50°		0.50°

Cross Caster
Total Toe	0.08°		0.17°		0.17°
Left SAI	12.92°		0.50°		0.50°
Right SAI	12.92°		0.50°		0.50°

2007 

FJ Cruiser 4X4

FRONT		Specification	Neg. Tolerance	Pos. Tolerance
Left Camber	0.15°		0.50°		0.50°
Right Camber	0.15°		0.50°		0.50°

Cross Camber
Left Caster	2.82°		0.50°		0.50°
Right Caster	2.82°		0.50°		0.50°

Cross Caster
Total Toe	0.08°		0.17°		0.17°
Left SAI	12.35°		0.50°		0.50°
Right SAI	12.35°		0.50°		0.50°
That doesn't hurt my eyes so much :)
 
After reading all posts possible, what is the best or the most close to perfect specs you guys are getting with a Revtek 3" alignment. I put the Revtek on with stock wheels and tires and the FJ still drove perfect. But when I went back and they put my 33x12.50 Mickey MTZ's on with 17x9 Moto Metals, now its a wonderer. The FJ wants to track left. The installers told me whenever they put on Revteks on the FJ (theyve done like 5 so far), they havent had to realign one yet, even with exact same tires. To me, now that the bigger tires are on i am noticing by eye that my camber might be out. Both the fronts are leaning out more at the top. Of course mudders have more tracking feel to them. But i feel like i am battling them back to the right when driving. All tire pressures are perfect with a digital pressure gauge. Anyone have tips?
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
You do have to re align the vehicle after a revtek kit thats what I put on mine currently running 285-70-17 BFG A/T Fj tracks Straight just go by the suggestions in first post get camber to zero and diff in right caster .4 greater than the left side caster
 
Specs on alignment after visit to dealership:

Camber Front L 0.6 R 0.4
Caster Front L 0.7 R 0.7
Toe Front L .03in R .03in
SAI L 11.2 R 12.4
INC. Angle L 11.8 R 12.8

Cross Camber 0.1
Cross Caster 0.0
Cross SAI -1.1
Total Toe .06in

Camber Rear left -0.1
Toe Rear left -.03in

Camber Rear right -0.3
Toe Rear right .11in

Before the adjustment the FJ had a pull to the right. The steering wheel even set a little to the right. Now the steering wheel sits straight. Also from the checks I have done it seems to drive straight. So hopefully if I rotate the tires often they will not wear out to fast. This is with a 3in lift and stock bfg A/T ko's.
So, im guessing I will get uneven wear with the above specs then? The FJ drives straight. The rear tires seem to angle inward from from top to bottom. Upper portion pointing outward a little more.
 
At stock I had no alignment issues, after the suspension mods, new wheels and tires that changed. I took it to the same alignment guy I have used for many years and no more issues.

My Point is...

A good alignment guy will get it right. Depsite what the specs are supposed to be from the factory, changes to the suspension and geometrics from a lift, coil overs, UCA's etc...may require something other than factory specs.

Set the CAMBER to 0.(ZERO), that's the most critical (tires are Square to the ground surface) then they will make adjustments for road crown, etc...

Find someone that is experienced in alignments, it should not be difficult, its a IFS system.

Just my 2 Cents worth.
 
At stock I had no alignment issues, after the suspension mods, new wheels and tires that changed. I took it to the same alignment guy I have used for many years and no more issues.

My Point is...

A good alignment guy will get it right. Depsite what the specs are supposed to be from the factory, changes to the suspension and geometrics from a lift, coil overs, UCA's etc...may require something other than factory specs.

Set the CAMBER to 0.(ZERO), that's the most critical (tires are Square to the ground surface) then they will make adjustments for road crown, etc...

Find someone that is experienced in alignments, it should not be difficult, its a IFS system.

Just my 2 Cents worth.

So, u set the camber for front and rear at 0? I just don't understand why the dealership can't get it right.
 
So, u set the camber for front and rear at 0? I just don't understand why the dealership can't get it right.
My previous post was regarding the Front only. The Front camber is set at 0.

When it comes to the rear of a vehicle, many things play into it, including spring load, stabilizer bars, link rods, etc... I have not had an issue with my rear set up other than having a good dynamic tire balance. Most dealers are working off of factory specs, if you have modified the suspension in any way, they may not be experienced enough to realize other changes need to be made. Most good alignment techs will know how to adjust the 4 link rear suspension, if you have an adjustable one, to make sure the rear end is Square and perpendicular(SP?) to prevent off tracking.
 
My thoughts exactly. I was really surprised when they said they didnt have to align a Revtek suspension. They are a 4x4 mod specialist, just havent done more than 5 FJ's, which shouldnt matter. Its common sense you have to realign or at least check for realignment after any suspension mod. Was just wondering if any one had numbers. The first few posts didnt specify if they were Revtek or not. Didnt want to use the wrong numbers for an example or a fact sheet when fixing mine and giving them info for the future. Thanks all.
 
It does not matter who the manufacturer of the lift is you will need an alignment with even 1" lift because the camber and toe change. The alignment should be adjusted and set properly after a lift. The specs FJVP listed work great for the front and are what we recommend Zero camber, .04 toe, and caster will end up in the low end of the specs. The rear has no adjustment unless you have adjustable aftermarket links.
 
Thanks Doug.....Im gonna show and tell these specs for my alignment and school them for future modders with these and all lifts for the FJ.
 
So I should get my camber down to 0 then and everything else is all right.
The toe will change when the Camber is brought to zero, but they can set it at .04. The caster wil go up too which will help with driveability.
These are perfered specs that have proven to work best with bigger tires and a lift.
There is a large window that Toyota allows for alignment specs on Camber, Caster, and toe, most alignment techs will get everything in the acceptable range and be done with it unless you specify where you want everything set.
 
Ok, just came back from alignment. Naturally it is a world of difference and worked out well. I explained what i wanted and had excellent service. Here are my final specs:

Camber: Left 0 Right 0
Caster: Left .8 deg Right .8 deg
Toe: Left .01 Right .02 total .03
Steer ahead: -.01 deg

All look good? missed toe by .01
And is caster within spec limits?
Drives way better but still very slightly pulls left on certain roads,
never pulls right.
 
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