[BrodieTheDog]

Bump

 

[Greggry]

In the process of buying a house/shop and will get things going again. Winter weather, loss of workspace, and supply issues with parts has bogged things down. don't worry, I haven't forgotten

 

[Dennx]

I have all the wiring done but the alt has to wait due to relocation and the weather. Having lost the garage space I worked in (buying a house shortly with a garage) things got delayed. I have also been on vacation for 14 days out in the woods without a computer so I apoligize about the delay in updating. I should have some pics up soon of the wiring.

Any chance of pics of just what has been done so far? Thanks :cheers:

 

[tsy87]

would you ever be interested in selling premade wiring kits for the FJ? I'm having trouble sourcing 0 gauge wire and the required terminals etc. I guess its kinda like the scuba kit, someone is making their own kits and selling them, but its much easier to me.

 

[Dennx]

I noticed the alt wires have two connections. Do you just replace the wire with the lug on it as part of the big 3 rewiring?

(not my pic)

 

[Dennx]

would you ever be interested in selling premade wiring kits for the FJ? I'm having trouble sourcing 0 gauge wire and the required terminals etc. I guess its kinda like the scuba kit, someone is making their own kits and selling them, but its much easier to me.

Stinger 0AWG by the foot.. 0 Gauge - Darvex.com

 

[Greggry]

I use stinger's cable because its actually the size its sold as (not 4ga cable thats called 1/0).

For the alternator the main power wire to the terminal with the nut is what needs to be replaced. That is what supplies power to the battery directly so by upgrading it (which is a absolute when running a bigger alternator) you will get power to where it needs to go.


Also I have pondered doing kits, but in all honesty I rather install everything myself rather then offer a kit so I can verify its done right. Once I find the right place I will be opening up a shop and I will work with you guys on doing installs (not that it matters since most of you live nowhere near here). I will just keep trying to inform you and get this damn project writeup done so you guys can do it yourself if you choose too.

 

[tsy87]

Stinger 0AWG by the foot.. 0 Gauge - Darvex.com

thanks! :cheers:

I use stinger's cable because its actually the size its sold as (not 4ga cable thats called 1/0).

For the alternator the main power wire to the terminal with the nut is what needs to be replaced. That is what supplies power to the battery directly so by upgrading it (which is a absolute when running a bigger alternator) you will get power to where it needs to go.


Also I have pondered doing kits, but in all honesty I rather install everything myself rather then offer a kit so I can verify its done right. Once I find the right place I will be opening up a shop and I will work with you guys on doing installs (not that it matters since most of you live nowhere near here). I will just keep trying to inform you and get this damn project writeup done so you guys can do it yourself if you choose too.

completely understand... Thanks for even considering doing a write up! When you get it all said and done, could you also help us out with a source for the other parts? I'm not terrible at soldering wires for aux lighting and other small electrical items, but the 0 gauge wire kinda concerns me... any advice on that would be much appreciate as well!

I am looking forward to your final tutorial! :rocker:

 

[Dennx]

thanks! :cheers:

completely understand... Thanks for even considering doing a write up! When you get it all said and done, could you also help us out with a source for the other parts? I'm not terrible at soldering wires for aux lighting and other small electrical items, but the 0 gauge wire kinda concerns me... any advice on that would be much appreciate as well!

I am looking forward to your final tutorial! :rocker:

I found a good video... How to solder battery cables. With solder pellets or slugs it makes it easy. Also use adhesive lined heat shrink tubing.

You can find the parts at delcity.net.

 

[Dennx]

... and get this damn project writeup done so you guys can do it yourself if you choose too.

Patiently waiting. I got a Die Hard 31m and now I want to get my big 3 done.

 

[No-Jeep-Jarrod]

Any updates??? I would like to have info for a higher output ALT. before mine dies. Having recently added a camper trailer to the mix this has been advanced a little closer to the top of my list of things to do. A guy I work with owns a tow business and he recommended a local shop. I have yet to contact them.

 

[bruja blanca]

Here are some suggestions/links based on what we are doing;

Battery #1-> Odyssey 31M-PC2150
ODYSSEY Batteries - Battery Specifications

Battery #2-> Odyssey 34M-PC1500
ODYSSEY Batteries - Battery Specifications

Alternator -> DC Power Engineering 270 XP
https://www.dcpowerinc.com/fit/2008~Toyota~FJ-Cruiser~4.0L-V6-1GR-FE/11139-270-xp.html

Cables -> Sourcing locally, unknown as of yet.

We are going to wire the batteries direct and in parallel without any switching/monitoring devices. The Odyssey battery tech manual shows a correct way to perform this to get maximum life out of the batteries on page 19.

 

[No-Jeep-Jarrod]

Yea I guess I'm in the that won't fit my 2010 boat. Anyway way at that price my boats going to get flipped or sank by the wife. I have no problem hitting the trails and filling the engine compartment with water and mud. With that under the hood, I think I could have a problem. Now I just don't know anymore, I guess I need to price the green one and think about my current set up. I really don't want the weight of the dual battery.

 

[Redeemed]

still waiting on that update ...

but I just received some stinger pro 4 & 8 gauge wire for other fj work and Wow, it's so much better than what I have been buying. By coincidence, I ordered it from darvex.com as suggested by Dennx and it showed up in 2 days, that's pretty darn fast. Thanks for bringing stinger to my attention Greggry.

 

[Blown383]

Subscribed for updates! This can't be too difficult to when swapping out to fatter cables.

-B

 

[DX FJC]

DC Power Inc makes a nice high amp alternator. I have used them before. Many of the advertised units won't do what they say they will do. I have seen Ford and GM alternators that claim to do 300+ amps, yet they still have a 1/4" stud. A 300+ amp neihoff has a 1/2" bolt for the B+. Leece-neville has a very tough unit too. The problem is they won't fit, but the point is to take a look at the beef of those units.
DC power and premier power both will do what they say they will do.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

[FJQue]

This just dead ended? Haha, dang

 

[101Firedog]

This just dead ended? Haha, dang

7 years ago...

I did my battery + cables here: The Electric Upgrade, and alternator to the Toyota OEM 4Runner "Tow Package" alternator (130A, vs the stock FJ 100, exact same form factor so it's a direct fit with no modification) here: 130A Alternator Upgrade

Together, those might be close to what you're looking for if you're looking for a writeup on bolstering the electrical system.

 

[FJQue]

7 years ago...

I did my battery + cables here: The Electric Upgrade, and alternator to the Toyota OEM 4Runner "Tow Package" alternator (130A, vs the stock FJ 100, exact same form factor so it's a direct fit with no modification) here: 130A Alternator Upgrade

Together, those might be close to what you're looking for if you're looking for a writeup on bolstering the electrical system.

Much appreciated!!