Re: Battery heat sheild wrap advice needed

I assume the extra piece is to adhere the blanket to the battery itself so it doesn't shift around. I could be wrong. I don't think they consider you'd be removing. If that's the case, I'd consider ditching the adhesive and getting a sewing machine and putting some velcro on there so you can remove it periodically. And if you want to go all in, build a 90* bent aluminum plate surround and stick that blanket to it so you can run it year round!

 

Re: Battery heat sheild wrap advice needed

Hmmmm Velcro...might it melt? The whole silver layer is sticky backed so i assume it’ll adhere to the felt ok. And I like having the plug in bat heater for winter...-20 to -30 not uncommon! Was extremely happy with what it did for the bat over this past endless winter, so planning to keep using it. I guess maybe the manufacturers of these heat shields just assume you’ll remove it maybe once, not annually :thinkerg:

 

Re: Battery heat sheild wrap advice needed

Hmmmm Velcro...might it melt?

Upon searching: "a Nomex (fire retardant) base Velcro with nylon or polyester hooks will have a slightly higher temperature rating (350°F / 177°C) than a**polyester‐based Velcro (280°F /*138°C)"

You can check your battery temps with a laser thermo gun. So if you used a poly/nylon velcro in the application between the reflective blanket, it's not directly on the heat source. It should yield a higher temp use rating because polyester doesn't have the same protective insulation. You really only need it to shield heat from surrounding the battery (I think you had bad luck with that previous battery overheating, ie. could have been manufacturer's defect or on the way out... Batteries tend to bulge and crack and your extreme offroading put it over the edge.

 

Re: Battery heat sheild wrap advice needed

I was going to suggest swapping out for velcro too. Or you could just use cable ties around it.

 

Re: Battery heat sheild wrap advice needed

I was going to suggest swapping out for velcro too. Or you could just use cable ties around it.

The only problem with cable ties I can think of is there would be gaps to let heat in, and areas where the felt lining would be compressed (may not be an issue). Also finding super long ones lol

 

Re: Battery heat sheild wrap advice needed

Could you run the battery blanket inside the heat shield?
That way you can leave both on.

 

Re: Battery heat sheild wrap advice needed

Could you run the battery blanket inside the heat shield?
That way you can leave both on.

I considered that but not sure there’s enough room under the bat clamp for both. And being unsure how the heat shield “actually” works, feel I should try to install it in as close to intended way (even tho there’s no directions any where).

 

Re: Battery heat sheild wrap advice needed

I’ve been running this heat shielding for about 8 months now, it’s basically a heat reflecting shield with internal matting that creates a bit of an airspace which is the actual insulating space separation space. If you look up actual duct tape or wrap you can see it’s actual metal with a very sticky adhesive backing that’s peeled back then applied. This is used in heater ducting for it’s extreme heat reflectivity.

 

Re: Battery heat sheild wrap advice needed

I’ve been running this heat shielding for about 8 months now, it’s basically a heat reflecting shield with internal matting that creates a bit of an airspace which is the actual insulating space separation space. If you look up actual duct tape or wrap you can see it’s actual metal with a very sticky adhesive backing that’s peeled back then applied. This is used in heater ducting for it’s extreme heat reflectivity.

Great to hear! So the air trapped in the felt is an insulator, and metallic/plastic layer reflects heat away...and it works for you? Do you plan to keep it on year round?

 

Re: Battery heat sheild wrap advice needed

Here’s a pic of the aluminum HVAC adhesive tape. Stuff’s freakin awesome.

 

Re: Battery heat sheild wrap advice needed

Hey Deb tell me what you think, yay or nay for Moab? I want the thing but the damn thing is unpainted.

What ya think hideous or freaky awesome?

 

Re: Battery heat sheild wrap advice needed

Hey Deb tell me what you think, yay or nay for Moab? I want the thing but the damn thing is unpainted.

What ya think hideous or freaky awesome?

G'Day Mate,
Wikid fitted one to his last J, once painted etc.... looked awesome.
There should be pixs some where in here showing it...
Cheers
Baz
:blueblob:

 

Re: Battery heat sheild wrap advice needed

@Thorn661 Paint matched, I think it would look cool!! It clearly would do an awesome job circulating air with BOTH scoop and side vents. Do you have room for an additional fan?

 

Re: Battery heat sheild wrap advice needed

Oh yea if you’re talking about in front of the radiator absolutely I’ve got room, as a person who has to listen to large electric fans on my FJ40 and my F150 I just don’t wanna think about it!

Seriously I could do it but if I get that hood or add the vents you’ve got I could put my rubber engine guards back on and wouldn’t need the electric fan.

 

Re: Battery heat sheild wrap advice needed

Oh yea if you’re talking about in front of the radiator absolutely I’ve got room, as a person who has to listen to large electric fans on my FJ40 and my F150 I just don’t wanna think about it!

Seriously I could do it but if I get that hood or add the vents you’ve got I could put my rubber engine guards back on and wouldn’t need the electric fan.

haha,
I fitted an extra fan in front of the RAD, manually switched, to help push air thru when sitting ..waiting ..on the trail etc...
worth doing if you run with large groups ....
Funny, i must be deeef, as i don't hear it....

Cheers
Baz
:blueblob:

 

Re: Battery heat sheild wrap advice needed

Lol hadn’t thought about the noise...yes with vented hood or just vents you’ll be a lot better off, I can tell you for sure. Really made a huge difference for me!

 

Just have a Aluminum box made . The thermo wrap just protects from
Radiant heat . I use something similar but it’s gold for under my gas tank so my fuel does not boil
On my race bikes . Convection heat under your hood will still course your batt to get warm but it’s not 300 plus deg warm . Our Helmets start melting at 350. Trust me that is warmer than you like to be .

 

Re: Battery heat sheild wrap advice needed



Def something in that... remember the old safari roof on Series Land Rovers?? I have an Aluminium dog crate. The temp inside the crate is always lower that inside the car. A sort of heat sink effect, the metal absorbs and reflects the heat and doesn't transmit it across the air gap.

 

Re: Battery heat sheild wrap advice needed

Think of it like the heat shields for your exhaust . Or The Crash Rescue guys at the airports wear the baked potato suits . even Fire shelters are just this very thin almost like Aluminum foil material . Its the air gap that You need . Just do not make a sealed box for a battery . Batteries off gas and that would end up giving your FJ a whole new type of ventilation .

 

Re: Battery heat sheild wrap advice needed

Group 27/31 AL battery box

 

Re: Battery heat sheild wrap advice needed

Batteries - Golf Cart - Marine - Deep Cycle - Motorcycle - RV - Powerstride

Working from iPad, so a bit clunky....but the above image comes from this site..one of many...also on Amazon....
Cheers
Baz
:blueblob:

 

Re: Battery heat sheild wrap advice needed

So how about this....get box made up with a vented (louvred) lid (or no lid) that has enough space between it and the battery for you to be able to slide the blanket into the gap in winter.

 

Re: Battery heat sheild wrap advice needed

So how about this....get box made up with a vented (louvred) lid (or no lid) that has enough space between it and the battery for you to be able to slide the blanket into the gap in winter.

Possible...as long as the actual mounting for the bat inside the box isn’t a pain to remove to slip on the heat wrap. My son just got a TIG welder for his graduation :grin and wants projects, but not sure I want to point him in that direction - yet...he’s been talking to me about titanium skids :browsmiley:

 

Deb try one of those marine battery boxes should be able to just set your battery right inside it . I think the Gold wrap stuff i use is the same stuff NASA uses or at least they charge enough for it that it could Fuel the space shuttle . I have never had a battery Cook so i have never really thought to much about this . Being that you run a Gel battery should help also .

 

I am certainly not expert but it seems that heat build up under the hood would affect batteries in a convection manner and not so much radiated heat that a reflective surface would help with. So insulation I can’t see being long lasting help in extended hot trips. I would imagine the key is engine bay heat removal is where action needs to take place and Deb you have helped facilitate that with louvers.
I really wish our fake hood scoop was real... or at least easy to convert but threads I see on it deter me from the effort as I would likely end up with a hack job.
That aftermarket hood looks cool but would I be able color match well enough not to look funky? Who knows...

Mike

 

I am certainly not expert but it seems that heat build up under the hood would affect batteries in a convection manner and not so much radiated heat that a reflective surface would help with. So insulation I can’t see being long lasting help in extended hot trips. I would imagine the key is engine bay heat removal is where action needs to take place and Deb you have helped facilitate that with louvers.
I really with our fake hood scoop was real... or at least easy to convert but threads I see on it deter me from the effort as I would likely end up with a hack job.
That aftermarket hood looks cool but would I be able color match well enough not to look funky? Who knows...

Mike

Yes it’s the extended hot trips I’m most concerned about, especially at crawling speed where very little air moves in through the vent louvres....at least I know for certain hot air is moving out - last year in Moab you could put your hand over them and feel them actively venting - felt like space heaters! In that scenario it’s hard to imagine any reflective heat shield really doing much good...when it’s that hot for that long (we’re talking 12 hr days on the trail) but as long as it’s doing no harm, I’m going ahead with it. I think the next step, if needed, will have to be a fan - if I can find a place for it!

 

Put the heat shield on the outside of the plastic battery box - glue some space blanket on for the silver effect - that will reflect radiant heat, and the box will keep the contact with hot air straight out of your radiators to a minimum.
Liken it to being in a car with the heating on - it's warmest next to the vent, and putting a barrier between you and the vent means you don't get anywhere near as warm!
The box is the barrier. The space blanket will help with radiant heat.

 

That would work if I could fit a box in there....got a lot of wiring in the way and would have to clean that up first, and relo the solenoid to the box exterior. Your idea makes good logical sense and will become step 2 if I have issues in Moab this year with the current plan. Thank you for the info!

 

Yea would’ve installed a box if it would fit also, I think I need to look into a set of those louvers you have Deb. Do you remember the site?

 

Not much room there! Yes it’s RodLouvres in SoCal. Let me know if you can’t find the site. Awesome guy....tell him you’re looking for the the FJ vents like mine...he’ll remember!

 

This is my first post, hello everyone! I've been on the forums for a while now, I figure it's time I contribute. I'm a battery technician with AAA, so hopefully I can share a little light on the subject of AGM batteries.

AGM batteries (Odyssey, Optima, etc.) do not have water them. They have lead plates in fiberglass mats. The medium that holds the cells together is a gel. This is why it's called AGM- absorb (gel), glass (fiberglass) mat (the lead plates form either spiral or flat structure referred to as a "mat"). This leads to several advantages of conventional lead-acid batteries.

First off, there is no need for an AGM battery to vent, because the battery does not create gas when it is being charged. Odyssey even says this on their website, that the battery is completely sealed. Quote:

"US Department of Transportation classified as a ‘non-spillable’ battery. No acid spills, no escaping gases"

This means that you can completely enclose whatever shield you decide to put over the battery.

Second, you don't need to worry about the winter weather affecting your battery, unless you're in the negatives for weeks at a time. Because the agm design does not use water, it is far more resistant to extreme temperatures, including the heat issue you're running into. Odessy even makes their own metal shields for their batteries. Another spec from their website:

"Extreme temperature tolerant
Operating temperatures from -40°C (-40°F) to 45°C (113ºF), for models without a metal jacket, and from -40ºC (-40ºF) to 80ºC (176ºF) for models with a metal jacket."

This brings me to my last point. Under no circumstances should you be getting your battery over 175F. If you're engine bay is getting so hot that your battery is reaching an overheat, what is that going to do to your oil, coolant, steering fluid, etc? If you're going to wheel for 8 hours, find opportunities to give your vehicle a break for an hour or two, like eating lunch and making fun of your buddy's Jeep. Do things to help keep the engine cool, like rolling down the windows instead of using AC, use 4-low for the gearing advantage (especially if you have bigger tires and haven't re-geared), and turn the heat on max and leaving the doors open, if you're going to idle for a bit while you walk around (this will remove heat from the coolant).

Hope this helps a little bit. I would recommend watching this video from engineering explained https://youtu.be/99oGcq4-t-4
BTW he is sponsored by Optima in this vid, but I would stay away from Optima batteries. They changed their manufacturing process recently, and their new batteries are trash. Smart choice on getting an Odyssey. I have one as well, and it hasn't let me down yet?

 

Excellent post and great info, welcome to the forum!

 

Not sure you're still looking for adhesive. Noticed this at the hardware store, flexible/high heat applications, automotive use rated.

The heat sink was a great idea and running a vent tube to your front light area is also plausible. We used to use tubing/dryer vent tubing to inlet air to the intake on sport compacts.

 

That’s made an hour north of my home, most badass adhesive made IMO. I’ve repaired CV boots, tail lights, cracked plastic but the best was a busted lower tank on my kubota tractor. I terminated the crack with a drill, drilled 4 holes along the length of the crack then applied the 6000. I left it to set for 72 hours and reinstalled the radiator, that was 4 or 5 years ago and the damn thing has never leaked a drop.

I keep at least one tube in each vehicle for emergencies, this is in my company truck console right now.

 

@BaldAndBearded. Great info and welcome to the forum.

 

Have you considered a fan on the battery? For exampe, a yamaha motorcycle uses 12v 6" radiator fans that are oem tough for long life. Build a box around the battery and run it as a puller fan to draw air around the battery. You could use a thermostatic switch or just a toggle in the cabin. They can be cheaply found on ebay.

 

Have considered a fan on the battery? For exampe, a yamaha motorcycle uses 12v 6" radiator fans that are oem tough for long life. Build a box around the battery and run it as a puller fan to draw air around the battery. You could use a thermostatic switch or just a toggle in the cabin. They can be cheaply found on ebay.

Thanks - will probably go to a box/fan type setup if my current arrangement doesn’t provide good results this summer in Moab.

Yesterday I installed the heat shield blanket but unfortunately not enough room to wrap it over the the heating blanket. Plan to put a thermometer inside the engine bay and keep notes while rockcrawling (max heat condition) and decide. Will post results.

Thank you everyone for so many excellent suggestions!!!

 

Here is another consideration for keeping the underhood temps down. Send your exhaust manifolds to jet hot for ceramic coating. It will dramatically reduce the temps and its no doubt the biggest contributor to underhood heat. They coat both the inside and outside of the headers.

https://www.jet-hot.com

 

Here is another consideration for keeping the underhood temps down. Send your exhaust manifolds to jet hot for ceramic coating. It will dramatically reduce the temps and its no doubt the biggest contributor to underhood heat. They coat both the inside and outside of the headers.

That’s a new one - so the ceramic coating reduces radiating of heat? Any downside to that (besides FJ being out of commission for a while)?

 

It helps produce more hp too by increasing the scavenging effect in the exhaust at the heads, because it keeps the heat in the pipes. Its all good effects using ceramic coating.

IIRC they offer different colors too.

If you are concerned about down time, source a set of used headers and send those to be coated. Then its just a swap out when they come back.

 

They do make colors...just saw that - they also offer Offraod and UltraExtreme coating >. Maybe just go ahead and get short tube headers n have them coated before install :rocker: