This is for a 2011. Should be the same.......



BLEED BRAKE LINE

(a) Turn the ignition switch on (IG).
(b) Remove the brake master cylinder reservoir filler cap assembly.
(c) Add brake fluid until the fluid level is between the MIN and MAX lines of the reservoir.
(d) Repeatedly depress the brake pedal and bleed air from the bleeder plug of the front disc brake cylinder RH.
(e) Repeat the step above until the air is completely bled, and then tighten the bleeder plug while depressing the brake pedal.

Torque : 11 Nm (110 kgf-cm, 8 ft-lbf)

(f) Bleed the air from the bleeder plug of the front disc brake cylinder LH using the same procedure as for the RH side.
(g) With the brake pedal depressed, loosen the bleeder plug of the rear disc brake cylinder RH, continue to hold the brake pedal and allow brake fluid to be drained from the bleeder plug while the pump motor operates.

HINT
* Air is bled as the pump motor operates while the brake pedal is being depressed.
* Be sure to release the brake pedal to stop the motor after approximately 100 seconds of continuous operation.
* As brake fluid is continuously drained while the pump operates, it is not necessary to repeatedly depress the brake pedal.
(h) When there is no more air in the brake fluid, tighten the bleeder plug, and then release the brake pedal.

Torque : 11 Nm (110 kgf-cm, 8 ft-lbf)

(i) Bleed the air from the bleeder plug of the rear disc brake cylinder LH using the same procedure as for the RH side.
(j) Turn the ignition switch off (IG).
(k) Inspect for brake fluid leaks.
(l) Check and adjust the brake fluid level

 

thanks for so detailed info

but I wonder why the sequence: RF, LF, RR, LR

normally bleeding sequence is start with the wheel farthest from reservoir?

 

Nice write up.


Sent from my iPhone using Autoguide.com App

 

Usually you start bleeding from the wheel that is farthest from the brake master cylinder and work your way to the closest one. RR to FL

 

I stole (without regret) the procedure directly form my "data base" at work. They "bought" the info directly from Toyota.....

Since each wheel has it's own brake line, what with ABS and VSC, these days the order in which you bleed them out probably isn't as important as it used to be....

Like I said, this is Toyota's procedure. I'll defer to their wisdom.

YMMV RON

 

thanks again, I 100% agree with you, so I will stick to manufacturer's instruction

 

I highly recommend a pressure bleeder for changing brake fluid. It makes all the difference in the world and is not very expensive. There's no chance of getting air in the system and it's a one person job and.... only takes a few minutes. The first time you use one, you'll be sold on it.

DEWFPO

 

^^^You can't spell it out any clearer than that Jimmie.:wave:

 

Here's the toyota procedure out of the 07' repair manual. This is just for the front and rear lines. It's a good idea to put the top on the master to prevent splashing. Do not let the master get low. Always tighten the bleeder before letting the pedal up. If you let the pedal up air will be sucked into the system. I would buy 2 quarts of fluid. You can probably take the second quart back but it's best to have more than enough on hand just in case. OK here's the Toyota process:

BLEED BRAKE LINE
(a) Turn the ignition switch to ON, and wait until the
pump motor has stopped.
HINT:
Pump operating sound can be heard.
(b) Front brake line.
(1) Connect the vinyl tube to the brake caliper.
(2) Depress the brake pedal several times, then
loosen the bleeder plug with the pedal held
down (step D).
(3) At the point when the fluid stops coming out,
tighten the bleeder plug, then release the brake
pedal (step E).
(4) Repeat steps D and E until all the air in the fluid
has been bled out.
Torque: 11 N*m (110 kgf*cm, 8 ft.*lbf)
(5) Repeat the above procedures to bleed the
other brake line.
(c) Rear brake line.
(1) Connect the vinyl tube to the brake caliper.
(2) Depress the brake pedal, hold it, and then
loosen the bleeder plug.
HINT:
Brake fluid is pumped out automatically.
(3) Loosen the bleeder plug and release the air.
NOTICE:
Keep the brake fluid in the reservoir tank
above the MIN line during the above
procedures.
(4) When the air is completely bled out of the brake
fluid through the bleeder plug, tighten the
bleeder plug.
Torque: 11 N*m (110 kgf*cm, 8 ft.*lbf)
(5) Repeat the above procedures to bleed the
other brake line.

:cheers:

 

Thanks so much for the quick reply. I think I am tracking now. So this really needs to be a two person job, one behind the wheel pressing down the brake pedal and one tightening and opening the bleeder valve accordingly? -Jeremy

 

So this really needs to be a two person job, one behind the wheel pressing down the brake pedal and one tightening and opening the bleeder valve accordingly? -Jeremy

Or install Speed Bleeders. Makes the job real fast and one person - two is still better for checking the fluid level while pumping.

 

Great thread.

Do you guys have any pictures for a quick how - to?

 

seems like different ideas for bleed pattern....does anyone have a sure fire answer,please?

 

There's always more than one way to skin a cat. There is no wrong way in this thread so take your pick. The easiest way is with a pressure bleeder but if you don't have one it's just a little more time consuming. The one way bleeders are very helpful if you don't have a helper. The easiest way is to take your truck to Toyota and pay them $199.00 :lol::lol::lol:

 

I installed speed bleeders and they make bleeding brakes a one person job.

 

I was thinking of using these but I wasn`t sure if they were good.....guess they are

 

What about performing a vacuum bleeding procedure? Anyone done it that way? If you have, did you have to turn on the key to get it done?

 

I just bled my brakes this last weekend. I had my son pump the brake pedal while I used a 10 mm wrench to open the bleeder valve. Flushed out all the old fluid. Brakes work a lot better now

 

Anyone got anything to comment on about the vacuum bleeding method?

Something I also noticed in my 2011 FJ manual about bleeding the brakes. They said that only when bleeding the rear brakes does the motor come on during the procedure and that the pedal doesn't need to be pumped then, only held down so that the motor will run and push out the old fluid and to not let the motor run for more than 100 seconds at a time. According the the manual, the motor apparently doesn't activate while doing the front set, and they also warn about having to reset any trouble codes that get thrown. Has anyone noticed this while doing their brake bleeding using the 2 person pedal method and have you had any TDC's been thrown?

 

I`ve never had a code thrown for bleeding the brakes. This is the simplest project in the world to do. It takes a total of 10 minutes to do all 4 brake lines. I think some people over think these procedures. Just do it

 

Just bleed the farthest line first and work your way to the shortest, replenish the fluid in the reservoir before it drains it's cavity (there is a cavity for front and rear divided in the single reservoir). This way you wont get air introduced into the circuit, which could be much more difficult to remove. This method is safe and plenty effective and can be done all by your lonesome. You can hang a small 1 quart bottle or so at each caliper as I make my rounds and use clear tubing to fit tightly over the bleeder screw. Place the hose down in the bottle with about an inch of fluid. Open the bleeder and then slowly push the brake pedal down until it stops, let off slowly and repeat. With the hose in the fluid it will not suck air back into the system. Cycle 5 or so times, tighten the bleeder, refill the reservoir and move on. It will take 15 minutes and your done. I generally drain most of each circuits fluid (one front, one rear) on the first cycle, that keeps the new fluid from being contaminated by the old. Alternatively you could pump the fluid from the reservoir, full with fresh and then begin the bleed cycle. The only time you should have to bleed a master cylinder is if you replace it. GL

 

Well, that's the way to go it sounds like. :cheers:

 

Kaiju,

I never put anything on the bleeder threads myself. I know what you're referring to but that only happens if you opened the bleeder too much. In the end to be sure you have all the air out you can crack the bleeder slightly until it drips brake fluid which is known as "gravity bleed". :cheers:

 

Thanks. I just wondered if anyone else using this method had a better solution. I've experimented around because those little bubbles always bothered me and found that putting a particularly thick silicone plumber's grease spread around the top of the thread area really helps cut that issue down. The darn stuff has the consistency of molasses which keeps it around the threads. A small amount of it will get drawn into the thread area, which then blocks any air from being in. On the plus side, once it's worked it's way into the threads, it helps to keep corrosion of the threads at bay since it's waterproof.