This happened to me this past month. I cleaned the MAFS, put some additives in the tank, removed the grounding and cleaned up the area where the grounding was. Turns out the gas station I got gas from had a leak in the underground tank and I pumped some bad gas into my FJ. Dealership drained the tank and the gas station took care of the invoice.

I would check with your nextdoor app (that's how I found out about the bad gas) to see if anyone posted similar or go ask the gas station you pumped at. Just throwing it out in case.

 

Thank you. I will try that. I was having this issue on the previous gas in the tank. Currently the gas that’s in the tank is from a different gas station.

 

Does the engine crank at a normal speed or more slowly? Has the alternator output been checked once the engine gets running?

 

 

It cranks at normal speed. Alternator hasn’t been checked. Will add that to the list. I did try jumping the new battery but it still wouldn’t start.

 

Have any computer codes been thrown or dash lights illuminated? Have you made sure there are no blown fuses anywhere? First try to clean the MAF sensor and check the air filter. Make sure the throttle body interior and plate look clean. When you clean the sensor, use the proper spray cleaner and make sure you clean the main wire element inside, not just the smaller temp sensor that's easier to see off to the side. If it's still no start, the easiest thing to check first is for spark. Unbolt one of the coils, pop it out and have someone crank the engine while holding it to ground. You could also get one of those spark plug shaped testers and plug it into one of the coils as well to look for spark. If there's spark, then it's a fuel problem. Check to make sure rodents haven't been up under the engine intake manifold munching on the wiring too. That damage can be hard to see unfortunately since the coolant pipe and manifold cover everything up on top.

 

Another item for the check list is if there’s a clicking sound when you try to turn it over - that would be the solenoid/starter. Lots of videos on it with a simple search.

 

With the US on its way to becoming a 3rd world country, I’m looking at an octane, water and ethanol monitoring system. I get the feeling that contamination in our fuel supply chain is going to be more problematic.

 

No Check engine light or codes.

All fuses checked.

MAF cleaned.

Fuel pump checked and is operational.

No “clicking sound” when turning engine over or any unusual sound. The engine wants to start but won’t.

 

No Check engine light or codes.

All fuses checked.

MAF cleaned.

Fuel pump checked and is operational.

No “clicking sound” when turning engine over or any unusual sound. The engine wants to start but won’t.

Is there actually gasoline in the tank, and not just a stuck gauge suggesting that there is fuel while actually empty?

 

Probably unrelated but I recently got a replacement key for my 08 FJ that uses a transponder key system. I got the key cut and tested it in the ignition lock cylinder. Turned it and to my surprise, the engine cranked but would not start. I then programmed the key transponder and it fired to life.

Anyway, it got me thinking, what is the transponder system cutting? Fuel? Ignition? Both? And what happens if this system malfunctions? You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle obviously.

So me thinks you have a fuel, ignition, or transponder key problem - Capt. Obvious here . I know that doesn’t narrow it down. But for shits and giggles, I’d try a different key if you have one.

 

Thank you. I will try that. The key unlocks and lock the car remotely. I’d think that wouldn’t work if that was the issue?

 

The immobilizer system will deactivate either the fuel pump or the ignition, but I'm not sure which engine system it disables on the FJ. I also believe a warning light comes on in the dash, but don't quote me on that. That light is usually flashing slowly when the engine is off and the key is away from the vehicle. I'm guessing the light illuminates fully if the system sees a problem with the key and then prevents the engine from starting as a warning. Since you can unlock the doors, there's enough power to make the immobilizer chip functional. However, the chip could be damaged and not communicating anymore with the system in the vehicle. That's why if you have a second key to give that a try.

Did you check to see if there's spark? Something else quickie you can try is to spray starting fluid into the intake (not hitting the MAF sensor) and see if the engine fires on that stuff. It would only be for a second or 2, but that would eliminate an ignition problem.

 

Did you check to see if there's spark? Something else quickie you can try is to spray starting fluid into the intake (not hitting the MAF sensor) and see if the engine fires on that stuff. It would only be for a second or 2, but that would eliminate an ignition problem.

This is the plan for tomorrow! I will report back with the findings.

 

As far as the immobilizer goes, that's completely separate from the fob function and use of the key in the doors etc. The immobilizer chip that Toyota uses is the black type on the left and it's embedded in the plastic of the key. As Kaiju said, the red light flashing next to the stereo should offer some clue as to the status of the immobilizer system. Is it recognizing your key? I believe the light will flash until you insert it in the ignition and then it should go out. But I need to double-check.

Now, if there's a problem with the immobilizer system, it could be on the vehicle side and not the key.

Sadly, this could all be a total goose chase... it's just one possible cause for a no-start.

 

As @FJ-6MT suggested (and I have seen) it could be your fuel gauge and you’re actually empty. Easy enough to pour in a few gallons and give it a try.

 

Thank you all for the help. I tried my spare key and it still wouldn’t start.

Got it towed to a local shop I trust. Here are the codes they were able to pull.

They believe the cause is due to a bad camshaft position sensor on bank 1.

This part will be replaced with an OEM part. Will report back with results.

Prior to the engine not starting I would have days where it would take longer to crank and start the engine so it may have been the sensor slowly dying.

 

Thanks. Keep us updated!

 

Will do!

Here is what they sent me:

“The vehicle arrived with a crank no start condition. Vehicle had camshaft position sensor bank 1 codes and crankshaft position sensor codes. Toyota strategy for ignition timing and fueling first utilizes the camshaft position sensors and then the crankshaft position sensor. Use a lab scope to probe the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensors. Due to the initial values from the cam sensors, the crank sensor did not have an output pulse. The bank one camshaft position sensor had an intermittent square wave. Recommend to start by replacing the bank one camshaft position sensor. If the issue persists or happens again, replace the remaining camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor.”

 

At least it looks like replacing the cam position sensor is a 10 minute job - although I suspect they will charge for more than that . Would be nice if that's it.

 

Solved

So it fired right up with the new sensor.

You are unfortunately correct. It wasn’t cheap and I could have done this myself had I not been so busy with work. Going to have to take the L on this one. On the other hand, it’s been nice not having a monthly car payment for the past two years. Hopefully I can get another 100k miles off this FJ.

Thanks again for everyone’s help.

 

It sounds like they may have found the issue. Good. However, it would've been more helpful if you'd actually used an OBD II code reader to find at least one code before we all started diagnosing the problem. Thrown codes are always the first place to begin. You initially claimed no codes. Good to know it's back running again.

 

That is correct. Initially I ran it and no codes were found. Once at the shop they used their computer and found the codes. I’m not sure why my code reader was unable to identify them. Going to purchase a better unit.

 

Changed the spark plugs today. These were the factory plugs with 150k miles. Definitely runs better now.

 

Changed the spark plugs today. These were the factory plugs with 150k miles. Definitely runs better now. View attachment 1225280

It looks from the picture that the Denso spark plugs are a little less worn than the NGK spark plugs. It would seem that Denso is the best choice.

 

Worn out does not even begin to describe those spark plugs. Wow!

 

I'm convinced you could stuff a twig in the spark plug hole and these trucks would run

 

Wow! You sure got your money's worth out of that set of plugs.

 

Yeah definitely got my money’s worth with these plugs. I read somewhere that the Toyota used Denso and NGK from the factory which leads me to believe these are the original plugs. I purchased the FJ almost two years ago. Dealership told me they did the maintenance for 120k miles. They definitely didn’t check the spark plugs. I honestly don’t think they did crap. I’ve changed the calipers, pads, flushed all the fluids, and now plugs. Basic maintenance. Only issues I’ve had was this camshaft sensor and a crank sensor when I first got it. Love the FJ.

 

Hello,I will add my 2 cents worth.after doing a multitude of work on my 2007 fj,water pump,all new pulleys, new alt,new starter,new power steering hoses,that go from pump to rack,plugs,oil cooler,all new hoses,new pipes, above knick sensors, knock sensors and harness,cam sensors, vvt sensors,....
After all done,it wouldn't start,why,I knocked the camshaft wire off the connector, and in order to get at it,you have to remove alternator....anyway,if you look at your starting schematic, camshaft is essential in the starting of vehicle.

 

Fyi,270k on fj now

 

Well…. tried to start the car this morning and it refused to start. Same symptoms as before. Obviously the problem has not been solved as we thought.

 

Both camshaft sensors were replaced. Crankshaft sensor was replaced.

Still won’t start. Any ideas? Really hope this damn thing doesn’t need a new timing chain at only 140k miles.

 

I gather no more codes are being thrown? Did you rule out any issues with the immobilizer key system? Fuel pressure? I dunno. I would think a timing chain issue is unlikely and would probably make an obvious racket if it has failed right? It’s gotta be spark, or fuel, or something the ECUs not happy with that’s causing it to not fire a spark or inject fuel.