This is very easy to do. I just did this install with PIAA fog lights and the OEM switch.

Give me a second to post up some information.

First off, if you want the OEM button and Harness, you need to order one from a dealership. I got mine at Toyota of Dallas.
http://www.trdparts4u.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=-7001

Next, I utilized the OEM instructions on routing the wires in the engine bay and within the cab. It is very helpful in taking apart your lower dash components and console.
http://lastgreatroadtrip.com/myFiles/litefj71AUX.pdf

I assume your KCs are pre-wired the same as my PIAAs. You should be able to wire everything from the Relay (provided by KC) to the lights as per instructions. (see page 4 of linked PDF for wiring diagram)
http://www.piaa.com/Lamps/install/520.pdf

From the relay you should have wires running to the KC switch. (on my PIAAs I had 2 from the relay...power and ground, and one more coming off the PIAA switch to go to a 12v power source.)

Cut the KC switch off, and discard the loose third wire and KC switch. Now you should have only 2 wires coming from the relay to route through the firewall and into the cab. you can route them through the rubber boot at the drivers side under the hood hinge.

now you are ready to wire the OEM switch. See link for wiring info. this is what I used.
http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/how-technical-articles/49978-oem-aux-light-switch-diagram-schematic.html You will need to cut the connector at the non-switch end of the OEM harness off.

I routed the harness and grounded it as shown in the OEM instructions (link above). This put me right under the fuse panel to come up and plug my switch power into an add-a-circuit (pick one up at any auto store)...more on this below. It also puts you close to the rubber boot in the firewall to tie in the power and ground to the relay.

You will have to choose a power source for the switch. The Relay (under the hood) power is directly tied to the battery the way they come. Now you need to choose power for the switch. It can be constant/ key switched/ or tied into High beams or low beams (so that it can only be on with that light.)

I chose to use an "add-a-circuit" in a 'key-switched' blank inside fuse panel (or you could use an aftermarket fuse panel as some do for many accessories.) I chose this because I don't want them to stay on when the key is turned off. See picture below i grabbed from another thread:

"This picture came from another thread from our esteemed colleague SwissArmy.
The blue shows switched fuses and the black shows always hot fuses. You can see in the picture he has used several of them and I believe at least some of these were for fog lights."

my finished product...

 

This is very easy to do. I just did this install with PIAA fog lights and the OEM switch.

Give me a second to post up some information.

First off, if you want the OEM button and Harness, you need to order one from a dealership. I got mine at Toyota of Dallas.
FOG LIGHT SWITCH / HARNESS PT297-35070-SH-AS

Next, I utilized the OEM instructions on routing the wires in the engine bay and within the cab. It is very helpful in taking apart your lower dash components and console.
http://lastgreatroadtrip.com/myFiles/litefj71AUX.pdf

I assume your KCs are pre-wired the same as my PIAAs. You should be able to wire everything from the Relay (provided by KC) to the lights as per instructions. (see page 4 of linked PDF for wiring diagram)
http://www.piaa.com/Lamps/install/520.pdf

From the relay you should have wires running to the KC switch. (on my PIAAs I had 2 from the relay...power and ground, and one more coming off the PIAA switch to go to a 12v power source.)

Cut the KC switch off, and discard the loose third wire and KC switch. Now you should have only 2 wires coming from the relay to route through the firewall and into the cab. you can route them through the rubber boot at the drivers side under the hood hinge.

now you are ready to wire the OEM switch. See link for wiring info. this is what I used.
http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/how-technical-articles/49978-oem-aux-light-switch-diagram-schematic.html You will need to cut the connector at the non-switch end of the OEM harness off.

I routed the harness and grounded it as shown in the OEM instructions (link above). This put me right under the fuse panel to come up and plug my switch power into an add-a-circuit (pick one up at any auto store)...more on this below. It also puts you close to the rubber boot in the firewall to tie in the power and ground to the relay.

You will have to choose a power source for the switch. The Relay (under the hood) power is directly tied to the battery the way they come. Now you need to choose power for the switch. It can be constant/ key switched/ or tied into High beams or low beams (so that it can only be on with that light.)

I chose to use an "add-a-circuit" in a 'key-switched' blank inside fuse panel (or you could use an aftermarket fuse panel as some do for many accessories.) I chose this because I don't want them to stay on when the key is turned off. See picture below i grabbed from another thread:

"This picture came from another thread from our esteemed colleague SwissArmy.
The blue shows switched fuses and the black shows always hot fuses. You can see in the picture he has used several of them and I believe at least some of these were for fog lights."

my finished product...

Now that I have my parts on the way( lights should be here next week and switch will be here tomorrow), i was reading the steps more closely. I dont think i completely understand what is going on in the first picture with the fuses. I get that we need to determine what is going to power the switch. I dont see the black and blue. Do you mean black or blue fuses? I would want mine to turn on and off with the switch and not always be on.

I dont fully understand the switch re-wiring but it may be come more clear when im actually looking at the harnesses.

 

Whoa that take apart looks intense. But maybe just cause its on paper. Ive taken apart the dash and console of my honda before and it was so easy after the first time. Thanks so much for your help. This is gonna be fun.

 

If you use the factory wiring harness you can just plug and play. Fuse and relay plug into the fuse block under the hood. The under dash harness plugs into the switch and wiring harness.

 

the interior stuff is not hard or time consuming to take apart. its worth it to wire it cleanly in my opinion.

any more questions, just post up!

 

OEM FJ Cruiser fog light switch w/ correct icon
PT297-35061-AS

trdsource.com
$42.01

 

Awsome info guys. I do think doing a clean install is a better way to go as well. I had to cancel my order for the lights cause it turns out I ordered driving lights instead of fog lights but I am going to put in the correct order now.

I read online that some people have used the fog light switch from a tacoma instead of the fj cause it is cheaper and still oem. They mount it to the left of the steering wheel. Anyone do or hear about that?

 

Yes... this 4 pin switch. It has no light up when activated, but it does have back light.

FJ Cruiser fog light switch conversion FJ-FOGSW

 

I was actually thinking about the one that is pictured in this post.
http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru.../forums/problems-dealer-service/47304-why-wont-dealer-sell-me-light-switch.html

 

For the 'old-school' look! Yep, it will work, as with any switch...just doesn't look as OEM in the FJ.

 

I have a question that I've been wanting to ask and this thread gives me the perfect opportunity. Maybe someone has a simple answer for me.

Currently I have 2 PIAA 520's on my rack tied to a factory relay and 2 fog's on my bumper tied to a simple toggle. These lights were on my rig when I bought it.

I'm planning on ordering 2 more lights for the top roof rack, and 2 rear facing lights for backup/flood.

Can I install the 2 extra driving lights on the same circuit or do I need another one?

Furthermore, how many "oem" fog light switches/harnesses can I install in the panel? I'd like to have one for each set of lights (driving, fog, and backup) I have room on the panel with blanks in most of the holes currently.

Thanks in advance.

 

Second question first: You can install as many OEM switches as you have blanks. That easy.

As for adding more lights...I assume they each come with a relay (per pair of lights) so I would keep each set of lights on a seperate switch AND circuit. That way you have the most control over what is on when and if a fuse blows, your not out all of your lights.

That said - you very well could use one switch for 4 rooftop lights. I would think one switch could activate 2 relays (= 4 lights). So that one switch would be on one circuit. I'm sure others have done it this way...I have not, as I have only 2 rooftop lights using the OEM wiring harness and switch.

 

Yeah i know its not exactly fj looking but it would be a cleaner look that what comes with the lights. And it would only be a temp solution until i can save enough to get the real switch

 

I was able to score the fj switch for 48 bucks with harness. Where would be the best place to mount the switch? Left of steering wheel or under the radio in a blank spot? I am thinking left of steering wheel so I can separate it from the other switches i am going to install for roof lights later on.

Thanks for all your input bc, its going to make this install so much easier.

 

The black and blue being referred to is the permanent marker written on the white fuse block around the openings where the fuses are to be plugged in. The black marker indicates circuits that are hot no matter if the vehicle is running or not. The blue is showing the circuits that will only be hot when the vehicle is running. Your lights will turn on with the switch no matter which one of these you plug your add-a-circuit into. The only difference is that if you plug them into one of the blue circuits, they will turn off when the vehicle is turned off and will not turn on while the vehicle is off, not matter if the switch for the lights is in the "on" position. If plugged into the black, the lights will work just like your factory headlights, you will be able to turn the fogs on no matter if the vehicle is running. Hope that all makes sense.

 

I think I get it. The black and blue refer to the entire row next to the black and blue. Cool, if that's it it makes total sense. It's starting to come together now

 

No the writing to the left of all of the fuses is the owner's key to the colors marked on the individual openings. Look closely at some of the blanks that don't hold fuses and you can see where certain ones are marked either black, blue or no markings. It does not refer to the entire row.

 

Ok I see that now. Thanks

 

Use the parking lights slot, this way the lights can only be activated if you have atleast the parking lights on, plus they will auto off like factory.

This information has been moved (Click Link) due to the closing of contributing Member’s threads.

 

Nice..that will work great...thanks for that info

 

Ok so my lights finally came in. I have a question on mounting now. I have a bull guard with tabs for lights. Does anyone have any pictures of how the wires are routed on or around the bull guard to the lights?

 

^^ Just wrap them in black wire loom and zip tie them securely as needed. They most likely will just route directly back through the grill. That is how the stock ones I removed did. (See OEM installation PDF link in my early post.)

 

I just looked at my fj. I can prolly go through the bottom grill. My switch just came in. Just waiting on the harness

 

Wow, I have just totally confused myself. I just got my harness and I am planning my install before actually doing it. So opposite end of the harness that goes in the switch, it has a connector with 3 wires and what seems to be a ground with a loop attached. do I just attach those 3 wires to the wires coming from the relay?

 

^^ look this over. http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/how-technical-articles/49978-oem-aux-light-switch-diagram-schematic.html

PIN 3 is what I wired to the 'Add-a-circuit' detailed above. this provides power to the switch only when the key is "on" with the fuse I chose.

Black Ground with Ring Connector- Ground this to same point as shown in the OEM Harness instructions PDF. (under driverside kick plate) OR any ground point you choose.

The remaining 2 wires can attach to the 2 relay wires routed into the cab. (one wire from the relay is discarded when you cut off the PIAA or KC switch) So you should only have 2 wires coming from the relay...a power and a ground. the power has to attach to the power out to the relay...the other to the remaining ground from the OEM switch.

1. Wire up lights and mount relay under the hood first, cut off the switch that came with the lights, route the remaining 2 wires through the firewall to under the drivers dash.

2. Now with the OEM switch tap the A-Trac button wires as spelled out in the OEM Toyota instructions (OEM Switch Harness Instructions),route the rest of the harness to right under the fuse panel, cut off the white connector, Ground your loop, crimp on your "add-a circuit" to pin 3 wire. Now you only have 2 wires left coming from the OEM switch harnes....

These should connect to the 2 from the Relay.

its not that hard...just take it step by step. print out the Switch PIN diagram so you have wire colors and functions handy.

you can do this!

 

My kc relay has 1 wire that comes out of it that has a white wire coupled with it. There is a green wire that says "Load" on the directions. I assume this is power. The white wire is not attached to anything. Both ends are free and it has a fuse on it and is labeled as "Supply". What I am thinking is that the load/green wire will connect to the red/green wire or pin 4. The white free standing wire should connect to the green/purple wire or pin 3 and the other free end of the white wire should be the add a fuse or circuit.This would connect the 2 wires coming from the relay. I still do not know what to connect the red/blue wire that is coming from the harness to. This is pin 1.

 

the white wire can be tossed most likely. I bet that was supposed to be the power for the switch (I assume the KC switch is lighted?...if so that makes sense.)

PIN 1 is the power lead for the Illumination for your OEM switch...look again at the diagram link above...it can just tap the PIN 4 that activates the relay (I used side-by-side splice connector). So when Relay is acivated (lights on) then the Illumination is on for your OEM switch. (when I say Illumination, I mean the light that shows the Aux lights are activated...NOT the Backlight, that is what the short wires T-tap to the A-Trac switch are for.)

PIN 3 - just attach the add-a-circuit directly...it is a fuse attachment that plugs in to the fuse panel (see link)...Hence, no need to re-use that loose white KC wire that has a fuse in line.
EDIT:
Yes...it looks like the white wire was for the switch power...so toss it and use the add-a-circuit on PIN 3.

Can you scan the wiring diagram for your KC's? That would help me make sure I am instructing you correctly. I am just assuming it is the same as the PIAAs. EDIT: KC Wiring Schematic

 

Here is the install guide..Thanks so much for your help

 

^^ OK, looking at that and the one I found and linked to it looks like what I said is valid.

Let us know how it goes!

 

Great...I'll try this out tomorrow...thanks a lot for your help..I really appreciate it.

 

Wait.. But wasn't I supposed to have 2 wires from the relay..now I only have 1 ..