I keep a few on hand but between the Tacoma and the FJ I rarely change them out. Look at them before you reinstall, looks good use , dont over torque.

 

technically speaking, yes, and I`m sure that`s to cover their butt, but if you are in a pinch you could reuse it... I don`t!!!
they are cheap enough to buy by the bag of 10.
I get my OEM fiolters and all the drain plug gaskets for the engine, and diffs from Sarks, a forum vendor here...


so you would have to inspect the condition of the drain plug gasket and determine if it has another life in it, and use a torque wrench to the proper spec!!!

 

I also picked up a 10 pack of these copper ones. Planning on doing oil change today & plan on using a new one anyway, like you said "there cheap & come in packs of 10". No reason to reuse it.

 

I always stop at dealer and pick up Toyota filter and new washer they told me oh you only have to change it every other oil change but figured why not. Ones they have been giving me are what looks like two stuck together the copper crush side on top.

 

I change it every time. I've used fiber, nylon, aluminum and all seem to work. One thing I also do is put a thin coat of Hylomar on the washer, both sides.

Last time the plug was a bit loose when I took it out, still no drips.

 

My experienced has been like pop above. I bought a bag of washers but never really needed to used them. I reuse the old washer which stays stuck to the pan. I just check it with my finger every oil change that it's still there and that there's no debris on it. Never had a problem with it leaking.

 

I bought a bag of oem and change it each time.

About to switch to a fuelmoto valve and no more drain plug and washers.

 

About to switch to a fuelmoto valve and no more drain plug and washers.

I've been using a Fujimoto (Quik Valve) for over three years. it's great, no more oil on your hands when you drain, no washer to mess with. :clap:

 

cheap enough to stock up on, buy a bag of em, and replace every other oil change

 

The Fumoto Valve is an excellent solution.

No more need to change washers, ever.

 

What F number for the drain?


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What F number for the drain?

http://www.qwikvalve.com/fumoto-f-103-valve-p-16147.html

http://www.qwikvalve.com/fumoto-f103s-valve.html

http://www.qwikvalve.com/fumoto-f103n-valve.html

 

Like others, I replace every time on the FJ and the wife's 4Runner. They are cheap.

 

normal copper/aluminum washer should be good for 2-3 times. after that it should be changed.

 

^^^Those look great and once installed you never have to worry about damaging the threads on the oil pan. I failed to mention before that I went a different route by purchasing a magnet drain plug off of ebay and also installed The Bear Trap magnetic oil filter wrap for my rig. Never hurts to add that kind of protection.:cheers: Hydraulic Filters, Filtration for Oil, Chemicals and Water - Motorsports - Flow Ezy Filters, Inc.

 

Is it bad that i've used the same plastic one for at least 4 or so oil changes? :lol:

Dang thing is stuck to the oil pan and I never took it off :shrug03:

 

Changed my oil for the first time this past weekend and either there was no washer or it is still stuck to the oil pan. I believe it is the latter because I see what appears to be a washer with ridge surrounding the oil pan drain opening that has some blue substance on it (possibly Lok-tite) which apparently was installed at the factory or whenever the drain plug was initially installed.

I could not remove this, so had to just place a new Toyota washer over it. I was wondering if you or a dealership was ever able to remove the original washer without damaging the oil pan?

Toyota talks about all kinds of torque specifications and precautionary procedures in the owner's manual, but apparently their own employees do not follow any instructions at all.

 

Fumoto on mine for over 2 years ( probably 6 to 7 oil changes ) = no problems, just get that oil good and hot as the puca is less than 1/4" and it takes a good 10 minutes to fully drain. ( yes, fill cap is off)

 

Re: Oil Pan Drain Plug Washer, Do it Right!

It really is important that drain plug gaskets be changed every oil change. We need to remember that the compression pressure will compact the washer media. Once that happens it will not expand outward, back to it's original thickness or shape. Secondly, it will not compress additionally if you use it a second or third time. Of more importance is the fact that torque will be different when you try to tighten during a reuse, that can lead to leaks and possible thread damage. :mecry:

Come on guys, we are talking .20 cents here! Think about the cost to replace an oil pan when threads strip. What about a new engine if the plugs falls out and the oil runs out while your heading down the highway.

You can get all your supplies at this wholesale site at prices the shops pay for them... So no excuse for not doing it right.

Oil Drain Plugs and Washers for cars, trucks and industrial applications. (Full coverage, including oversize, piggybacks, specials, magnetic)

Hope this helps...

P.S. RomaBoy mentioned a magnet system that wraps around the outside of an oil filter. Please read the warning about these types of programs, they can restrict the flow of oil and even cause engine damage.

Oil Filter Magnet by GWR saves fuel, increases enging life, reduces wear, reduces oil change intervals. Patented magnet fit inside oil filter and saves fuel.

 

Welcome Aboard thepartsman, You're right about changing that drain plug gasket but I'm lazy I guess. I do have a half a dozen of them in my tool box draw though just in case. In all the years I've changed oil I never have strip a drain plug. You develop a feel about how tight it should be. As far as that type of magnet you posted for the oil filter I would never use that. Mine sticks to the outside of the oil filter. :cheers: Hydraulic Filters, Filtration for Oil, Chemicals and Water - Motorsports - Flow Ezy Filters, Inc.

 

I wouldn`t stack sealing washers...

 

Did not exactly like the idea of doubling the washers either, but what else could be done. It would have taken a chisel and hammer to remove the old washer (if that is what it is) stuck to the oil pan. Perhaps someone can enlighten me as to whether or not there is a discernable outer ridge (the size of a washer) surrounding the 2014 model drain plug opening or is the opening just flat and smooth? I found no washer on my drain plug or submerged in the used oil that was drained, so I have to assume the washer is stuck to the pan. I did not think it would be a good idea to use any metal tools to attempt removal and there is very little room to work in that area. Will definitely be switching to a Fumoto valve if the washers can be removed on the next oil change.

In any case the Toyota oil pan looks like a cheap piece of painted stamped steel compared to the ones in all the German cars I have had that could easily survive a smack with a sledgehammer or a land mine detonation. Even the Toyota drain plug itself seems like it is made out of pot metal with threads that can easily strip. The German plugs look and feel like they are CNC machined using solid steel similar to gun parts.

No wonder Japanese Zeroes practically fell out of the sky on their own during WWII, while the Messerschmitts could take a beating and keep on flying...at least until they met up with an American made P-51 Mustang anyway.

 

Invisibleempire, Next time you change your oil try picking off the gasket with your finger nail. It should come off that easy. I have the older motor in my FJ so I'm going by that.

 

I actually tried knocking it off with the edge of a screwdriver and it did not budge. It is made of metal, not fiber on the 2014.

 

I bought the Fumoto valve and put it on for my first oil change a few weeks ago. I also had the stuck washer. I'll be double checking that seal real soon!
The fumoto valve is great though!
I bought one for my wife's Corolla too.

 

Were you able to remove the washer before installing the Fumoto valve, or did you have to leave it on? Thanks for your reply.

 

I have maybe 35 to 40 (engine) oil changes to date on 9-Ball. I haven't noticed a crush washer at that location. I have never leaked a drop from there.

 

I change my crush washers every oil change. Some guys flip em once. for thirty cents I'll use a new one each time. Used to use copper only but my Honda dealer started using aluminum so tried them. They work just fine.

Thanks for the links thepartsman. Kinda scary putting a large object in my oil filter. I'll do some thinking on that. If the magnet stays intact, and none of it becomes de-magnetized, I believe it would be a good idea

If it were to break up for some reason and pieces became de-magnetized it would be curtains for the motor since it is installed on the engine side of the filtering element.

 

I bought a case of 10 filters from TRDParts4U and they came with 10 drain plug washers. They can be a pita to remove....I change it each time I drain & change the oil.

 

Six and a half years, oil changed at 3500 miles every time, never replaced the plug seal. Have had a few seals on hand for many years, have never seen the plug weep or drip. This next oil change I am putting a Fumoto drain valve on.

 

Hey Mags. Just curious, When you install the Fumoto valve, is that going to be more exposed to damage if you are wheeling? (Not rock crawling). Thanks.


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You can use them way more than one time but they do where out sooner or later. I change mine out probly once a year. I have a couple spares if it starts to leak. Same with the crush washers on the diffs. My original lasted 7 yrs. Just changed it about a year ago. I have changed the diff fluids about 10 times so far.