For me, I wanted to wire wheel and repaint that "tulip" part left in the transaxle.
I'm sure you will find the process easier with the whole axle out. I jacked up the side I was working on to reduce or eliminate oil spill from the transaxle. A prybar popped the axle out fairly easily. Did one side at a time.

 

Just going off of this video, starting at 9:55:

I don't think he was working on an FJ, but unless I'm mistaken it's a very similar system. It just looks quite easy to get the outer CV joint off and back on, that doing it will the rest of the driveshaft is still attached to the vehicle seems a reasonable approach. But I don't know what I don't know.

 

I just did mine. Easy to do but very messy. Probly would be a real pita to do while still connected to the FJ.

 

Your trying to cut corners and not thinking out of the box.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I don't know think it's about cutting corners so much as finding the most efficient approach. Hypothetically, messing with one CV joint is more efficient than messing with two. But I can currently only speak hypothetically, hence me posting this thread.

For the people who have changed their CV boots and so aren't speaking hypothetically, is an issue the limited space you'd have in the wheel well to swing a hammer when trying to get the outer CV joint off the shaft? Would that make it extremely difficult to get the outer CV joint off?

And it looks like, if you're comparing the removal of the inner CV joint with the removal of the outer, the inner is much easier, since you just need to remove a clip, then it slides off. I think I have that right?

So I guess the "choice" boils down to:

1. Ok you'd save a few steps by not removing the axel or messing with the inner CV joint, but it might be hard to impossible to get the outer CV joint off with the shaft still attached to the vehicle, and you're removing the more difficult of the two CV joints, or

2. Yes, you're having to mess with both CV joints, but it's way easier to replace the boots with the axel off the vehicle, and you're taking off the easier of the two joints.

Does that feel like an accurate description of the "choice" I'm posing? Being new to working on a vehicle, I find it really helps to understand the options, and the whys of why one is clearly the best approach.

 

I did mine a year or so ago and I would recommend pulling the axle but hey give it a try if you want. If you do remove the axle I would go ahead and order 2 seals 90304-A0001. You're likely to mess them up getting the axel out and they don't come with the kit. Good luck! (and careful not to gouge your diff seal)

 

I’ve torn a few outer boots and as I recall, you can’t replace the outer without removing the entire axle. There is a simple tool that helps with removal, essentially a short length of braided rope with loops at the ends so you can use an ax or long handled tool get good pull power when yanking the axle out. Great for trail repairs. I know several overland companies sold them, (such as Southeast Overland) and maybe someone on here will chime in about sources. You could probably make one 😁 The basic idea is getting enough momentum into your swing. GL!

 

I had another vehicle and was trying to get the joint out, it was a real pain. It was front wheel drive and no room to get it out. Many years later I saw the rope technique. I used a come along winch to create some (not too much) tension, tapped it with a rubber mallet and it popped right off.

<>< <>< <>< <*((^(((><

 

The greases you use to fill the new boots are liquid. I needed to stand the axle up straight to pour in grease and them seat the boot before clamping. Trying to do this while the axle is horizonal doesn`t seem possible

 

Just take your time and do it the right way. No need to reinvent the wheel here, and it’s always better to just take a few extra steps so you can access the parts easily than to try and cut corners and fix them in place. This is a common thing for working on stuff yourself, whether it be your car or a model airplane. You will spend more time struggling on your back trying to “save time” than if you just took it off completely the first time. Take the time to do the few extra steps and do it properly, rather than trying to be silly and rebuild the CV under your car on your back upside down in the dark etc etc when it takes an extra 3 minutes to remove the whole dang axle.

 

After wrestling a few CV rebuilds myself. I guarantee you will end up taking it off the vehicle to do. For me the biggest PITA is getting the boot clamped back on while everything is all greasy. Its hard enough to do with the CV shaft clamped in a vice. Impossible to do while installed on a vehicle.

The only thing you gain by leaving it attached to the front diff is about half a quart of gear oil.

 

Pull them and reboot

 

No you can't just separate the outer on the vehicle. The outer joint is not designed to be serviceable. It takes an extreme amount of force to separate the axle shaft from the inner CV race/star. I have serviced, rebuilt and torn apart more FJ and Tacoma axles than I care to think about in the last few year of going long travel. I can safetly tell you from my experiences I would rather pull the axle from the vehicle and tear town the inner tulip joint than even think about messing with the outer joint. Most of the axles I've worked with 70% or so had to have the stock axles cut off at the outer joint and machined to remove them from the race/star. Pulling the front axles is actually pretty easy. With enough practice and proper tools, I think both axles could be removed, completely re booted, greased and back on the ground in less than 4 hours. The first time will take you twice as long. Good Luck!

 

Go to your local 'big brand' parts store with tool rentals. Get the slide hammer.

Then make sure it has this thread on hook:

Then hook it over one of the flat spots on the tulip and BAND CLAMP it to the tulip....slide hammer the SOB right out.

When putting it back in, put the GIANT CV NUT on the threads if you plan to hammer it in....sucks to mushroom the CV shaft...its way easier than you would think to do so


That said, with the right CV clamps / tool, you can easily leave the thing in the differential (and maybe the spindle) and do some grease-olympics and then try and get a good tight clamp back on it....I have done so with other MUCH tighter clearance FWD cars before....Youll just do a better job on the bench....and your front diff probably needs some fluid changed anyway!

 

Y'all really are the best. It's one thing to do a deep dive and read every thread you can find on this forum, watch all the youtube videos that come up in a search, but another thing entirely to take part in an active conversation. Everyone's feedback has really clarified this topic for me, so thank you all for taking the time!

So, I will be removing the axel to replace the boots. My future self thanks you all for pushing me to this conclusion now as opposed to while I would be in the middle of the job.

I'm clear on all the tools that I need, just have a few doubts hopefully someone can clarify. Relative to these front axels, I understand there is an outer seal:

Can anyone confirm that this is the correct part number, 90316-A0001:

90316-72001 - Seal Ourisman Toyota Parts

Save Money On Your Seal (9031672001) For Your

toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com

And an inner seal:

Again, can anyone confirm that the correct part number is 43442-35060:

43442-35060 - Cap 2003-2024 Toyota | Ourisman Toyota Parts

Save Money On Your Cap (4344235060) For Your 2003-2024 Toyota When You Shop With Ourisman Toyota Parts!

toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com

And for the gear oil, I assume it's ok to just buy a bottle or two of 75W-85 and replace the correct amount lost? Does it matter if it's synthetic or not?

 

Look up Timmythetoolman on youtube....has VERY detailed vids on how to do this.

 

Here’s the number I have for the axle side of the knuckle seal.

 

Thanks! Did you purchase that part a while ago? From the two Toyota part sites I'm looking at, 90316-72001 is replaced by 90316-A0001, so those seem like equivalent part numbers.

 

Glad we could help - keep us informed as this project continues! I always replace seals whenever possible doing a repair or upgrade, and keep a fair number of common seals in my on-board kit when driving cross country to wheel. As for your question about the gear oil, it’s the same issue as seals - unless you recently changed it, swap it out if you happen to be there…it’s inexpensive and your FJ will thank you in the long run. Good luck with the axles! 👍

 

[

43442-35060 - Cap 2003-2024 Toyota | Ourisman Toyota Parts

Save Money On Your Cap (4344235060) For Your 2003-2024 Toyota When You Shop With Ourisman Toyota Parts!

toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com

And for the gear oil, I assume it's ok to just buy a bottle or two of 75W-85 and replace the correct amount lost? Does it matter if it's synthetic or not?
[/QUOTE]

I think all gear oil now a days is synthetic, and local auto parts stores sell royal purple or Lucas oil I believe, Amsoil is a good choice too. Might as well just drain it and refill, the drain bolt is cake to get too, the refill hole is the difficult one. Not too bad though. And I think the front dif only uses a few quarts if that.

 

Be very careful seating the seal on the diff. if you replace it. Otherwise, you'll get it all back together only to find a little puddle the next day.... trust me I know. I had my machinist friend turn me down a piece of hard plastic/nylon that fit the seal inside and set the depth with a long rod to tap it in with a hammer. Some people say and I'm tempted to agree, if that diff seal looks fine and you don't have to, don't change it.

 

I went and got a cast iron pipe cap at the local home store to tap mine in. Just take the seal in with you and match it up....can be ever so slightly smaller in diameter than the seal as it needs to set slightly in the diff - TAKE NOTE OF THAT DISTANCE before you yank it out. (i used that rental slide hammer and one of the other attachments to yank the seal out!)

 

1.5-2mm inset? I'd confirm that if I were you.

 

This is from the service manual, just to have all the info in one place for future searchers:

Since I have not yet looked at these seals in person, I have a hard time visually understanding that diagram. I also have a hard time understanding the -.45 to .45 mm depth for the LH side. "-.45mm" would mean that it's partially sticking out of the front diff?

 

Great information. Makes me nervous, but great information. I guess I'll have a new seal on hand, but inspect the one in there and only replace if damaged.

For the people that replaced the seal in the diff, could you please let me know the correct part number of that seal.

It seems like 90316-A0001 is the correct seal for the knuckle, but I'm not sure of the seal for the diff.

 

Great information. Makes me nervous, but great information. I guess I'll have a new seal on hand, but inspect the one in there and only replace if damaged.

For the people that replaced the seal in the diff, could you please let me know the correct part number of that seal.

It seems like 90316-A0001 is the correct seal for the knuckle, but I'm not sure of the seal for the diff.

If memory serves the driver and passenger are different, there are a lot of threads on it.

 

Hello,

I have 2012 Fj cruiser, when I drive it normal driving, it is going very well, however when I kick it down, it gets misfire. check it and I got the code P2109 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor A Minimum Stop Performance. Anybody knows the place of this sensor?

regards

 

I believe its on the actual throttle body. This thread might help with first steps if you'll scroll down in it : Weird Rough Idle

 

Can you confirm that these are the right part numbers for those seals: Pass Side Is 90311-47013, Dr Side Is 90311-47012 ?

 

I've replaced boots on a CV axle while still attached to the vehicle. It was not on the FJ. It's doable, but a messy Royal PITA. I hope I never do it that way again.

 

Go ahead and change the lube in the differential while your in there.