Sounds like you need to take a trip to the dealer.:cheers:

 

I have had the same lights come on for different reasons. They came on for my intake tube maf gasket was leaking air in, and also for the exhaust gasket leaking. I'm starting to think they come on for everything....

 

You need to find out what codes are coming up. Could be any number of things. Get someone to check the codes.

 

Fjamming had a similar issue after a self-induced electrical problem.

Read through this thread and see if any of this helps:

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...rums.com/forums/stereo-electronics-electrical/96705-fuse-relay-help-needed.html

I believe the solution ended up being the "IGN1" fuse - see the second page.

 

All my indicator lights as noted in the earlier in this post came on last week. I went to the dealership....Mechanic pinpointed the problem----bad cat converters, thats what the diagnostic code showed!!! Covered under the warranty...But since I did the JBA shorty header modification then I guess my warranty for the exhausts sysytem is voided!!!! Booooo....So I was wondering how does the computer know that the catalytic converters are bad? Is the information being relayed from the back O2 sensors (between the front cats and the back cats? If anyone knows this information please respond!!!! And if my cat converters are bad, Im thinking of changing out my headers and the stock cats, but does anyone know if there are headers that have the cats welded on (combo)....?????
headers are about a year and a half old, 20,000 miles....Seems weird that it would go bad so soon.......

 

I would talk to Gadget from URD.....:bigthumb:

 

I took mine to the dealer today. Its a 2007 and I had 4 lights on the dash--Check Eng, VSC Off and VSC Traction and one other. They called and said if I had changed the Gas Cap--I had--i'd put on a locking one (after market). They said it's not getting a "good seal" and that's what putting it on...I asked "What about the VSC lights" and he said they are "all connected" or "all related"--it was a little vague. They wanted to charge me the "diagnostic" fee since I had on an aftermarket gas cap. Plus $20 for a new cap. Turned them down cuz I still have my original cap at home....so I went to pick it up. THey didn't charge me but they didn't reset the lights....I put the original cap back on and went to fill it up. So I'll wait a couple of days and take it back--see what happens then.....:boohoo: inklove: :boohoo:

 

If it was indeed the cap, in a few days the lights will reset themselves if all is well (when the system runs the next evap test).

DEWFPO

 

i had the same issue this past week. i just got back from the dealer & its the cats. im at 67k mi. should this be covered under an emissions warranty?

 

Has it been confirmed that the lights are on due to bad cats or just the sensors? I just started having the same issues. If anyone had this fixed, was the repair covered under warranty? Attached is a picture of the lights.

 

No, the VSC, etc lights come on with the check engine for some reason. Makes no sense why that system would be disabled just for an OBD code. So no, the lights all coming on does not directly mean a cat failure. It can mean any number of things. Won't know until you get the code(s) read.

 

hi everybody,

i'm living in poland and toyota does'n sell the fj over here, so i'm probably one of very few fjcruiser owners in europe. for that reason they don't have any solution for this problem so far. they said it's the right cat converter (that's what the computer told them) so they changed the right converter, than the left converter and i'm getting the lights going on again after few days.

i've noticed that after disconnecting the battery the lights are turning off for a while, but only for a while ....

any idea what could be the reason is highly apreciated.

best regards
pawel

 

remember bank 1 is passenger and bank 2 is is driver side, im dealing the problem now!! i changed the o2 sensor for bank 2. That didn't work so gonna do a test to see if my cats are failing. Im gonna use a temp. reader and use it when engine is cold and hot and see if theres a temp differences. If its good then im gonna buy the URD O2 Sim. Thats just gona clear the code and lights. And basically tell the ECU that the O2 sensor are getting the correct reading. URD O2 Sim = $130

my code is P0430

 

You need test the cat when it's hot. Take it for a short drive and then use and IR temperature gun and point it at the pipe going into the cat and coming out of the cat. The 'exit' reading should be noticeably higher than the 'entry' reading if the cat is working. The more spirited the driving the higher the temp differential.

DEWFPO

DEWFPO

 

I'm just curious as to how much new cats cost when not covered by warranty.

Anybody know?

 

i got a price from the dealer about 1000 pre cat
and o'reilly auto parts catalytic converter magnaflow is 350$ pre and
stock about 250$

 

I just got back from the dealership today, My lights all went on last week.

I said all i want them to do was check what the code was.

$ 55.00 (But they didnt charge me )

Heres why, They said that they didnt know for sure what was triggering the code error but they had reason to believe that my LED tail lights were sending spikes to the ABS and triggering the light to come on. Hmm.

 

ahh, lights came back on an hour after the dealership. o well.

 

You need test the cat when it's hot. Take it for a short drive and then use and IR temperature gun and point it at the pipe going into the cat and coming out of the cat. The 'exit' reading should be noticeably higher than the 'entry' reading if the cat is working. The more spirited the driving the higher the temp differential.

DEWFPO

DEWFPO

FRONT CATS:
(Bank2) Driveside before the cat was 625F and after was 465F
(Bank1) Passangerside before the cat was 623F and after was 501F

REAR CATS:
(Bank2) Driverside before the cat was 455F and after was 315F
(Bank1) Passangerside before the cat was 495F and after was 460F!

So to me i think its running HOTTER on (bank 1) due to Bank2.

So do you think it is clogged up? Broken?
Idea's, opinion's, Educated Suggests PLZ.

 

Cats don't often clog up. If they did you'd notice it in the performance.

Were your numbers immediately after a good hot run or just idling?

How many miles on your FJ and do you have any engine mods?

DEWFPO

 

yeah it was a good hot run, highway/city.
i have 60000K and. just trd intake, trd exhuast, jba headers

 

Older thread although I'd like to share my experience. My sled is a 2007 FJ Crawler with the cat back exhaust from the Crawler option list added by a previous owner before we bought it last year.

There is a switch with connector mounted on the floor behind the brake pedal that is not protected nor very rugged. It senses when the brake pedal is applied. If it is faulty then the dashboard lights up because the VSC, TRAC, etc. are not enabled because the sensors for those systems cannot get brake pedal info.

The problem was intermittent until I put some rubber floor mats in that had no eyelets for the hooks to hold them in place. The driver's side one kept creeping up and hitting this switch until it finally gave out, turning my intermittent problem into a permanent one.

Local independent shop found it, R&R'd it, and now it's all good.

 

Mine is so weird. I have the slippery car vsc and trac lights on only. But they only come on as soon as the car rolls. If i start it and dont move it.. theres nothing. When i run a reader.. nothing. No Codes. Im not sure what it could be.

 

Greetings FJers,

Mine have come on and a search about it brought this thread up. The last post was a year and a half ago?? Maybe we have a solution?

The code comes back as 'catalyst' - should I be checking my gas cap (really?) and or gaskets in the air intake? How about the brake switch?

How about this: if the lights are on does that mean I am driving without traction control, etc?? So many lights:-/ Seems like 'check engine' would be enough for an o2 sensor or cat.

Thanks in advance!

 

I think this is a common issue with all FJ Cruisers. All the lights come on for just a check engine light.

I've been having this issue for years at random moments and it's all tied to the MAF sensor. I've had both TRD intakes, replaced the sensor twice. The only thing I think it can be is the little foam seal between the sensor and the hose. Can't seem to find that part. I'm about ready to take the sensor apart again and just take a picture to the dealership.

 

I had this happen on a recent road trip from Texas to Oregon. Descending into SLC, all these lights came on at once. Took it to a local dealer in Murray, UT. They found codes for the cam gear and oil control valve. They said it would be a three day job to inspect/repair the cam gear and they didn't have a replacement OCV in stock but the computer test showed it to be functioning properly. They reset the lights and advised that it would be safe to drive but to have it checked out when I got to Oregon.

The Bend, OR dealer said if there were no lights on then there were no codes to read and the truck was okay.

4500 rough miles later (80+ mph on the highway and 100 miles of off-roading) the lights have not come back on and the truck is running great.

The dealer charged me $124 for the diagnostic and reset, but I was on the road and had few options.

My advice: have the lights reset and drive it. It there is really a problem then the light will come back on and the codes will show up again.

 

I know the thread is older but I have a 2007 stock 4x4 auto transmission with roughly 67,000 miles and the same thing happened. It has been really cold in the mornings so I've been warming up the car (for my benefit) 5 minutes before I leave for work. After a few days of doing so I went to drive off and realized all the check engine and traction lights were on. I rushed through the manual and it said the brakes would work, googled this forum so got a fresh tank of gas and tightened the gas cap and hoped that solved the issue. Checked the wiring near the brake pedal and didn't see any red flags. It's been about a week and lights are still on and mechanic is looking at it tomorrow.
Before all this happened... the previous day it was incredibly windy and a few days prior I had filled up at a different gas station than I normally do. Only issue my mechanic has seen in the past is an ever so slight oil leak but wasn't too worried about it.
I see everyone is at that mileage... any known recalls? I'll post an update with what the mechanic finds.

 

Nothing you describe should affect your traction control.
How is your alignment?
Any branches or stuff get blown up into your undercarriage or did you drive over anything on that windy day?
How about your tires.... any flat? Lol..... yeah I'm running out of ideas.

 

Mechanic said the same thing others have stated... for some reason the check engine light also triggers the other lights for no rhyme or reason...
Code PO 348 which he said was "Bank 2 cam sensor problem" he said it was a weird code so he hunted down a sensor just in case... in the meanwhile they removed the Cam cover and found wires chewed by rodents... (remember I said it's been cold...) They repaired the wires, cleared the code and all is well. I was grateful the whole ordeal only cost me $99.
He said he's heard of other people pinning dryer sheets up in the corners of the hood (so they don't catch fire) to keep the rodents out... anyone else have experience keeping the critters away? We have lots of cold days ahead and incidentally the last couple of weeks they have been outsmarting my dogs and my husband's traps. (The cat is worthless...)

 

Peppermint oil (the actual concentrated type) has been successful according to some.

 

My 2008 has all the lights on and, according to the dealer who spent 4.5 hrs last time, my ECM is losing communication with the CAN bus.
My ABS is not active
My airbag system is not active
My VSC and traction control are not active
All per the dealer...

Occasionally the ABS light is off, but comes on after driving a while.

For a period of time the brake light was on, but went off.
Yesterday it came on again.

Ive ordered the brake light switch and will replace it today.

Any suggestions?

 

New brake light switch didn't fix anything.

 

After a little research I found this:

https://www.purefjcruiser.com/docs/...Cruiser Repair Manual/Brake Control/Vehicle Stability Control System/028008.pdf

I followed the instructions to reset the DTC and so far have driven about 30 mi without the error lights coming on again. Last time it only lasted 21 miles after the dealer reset it.