I assume you're referring to relocating the heating and air controls only, not any of the actual equipment, correct? Are you planning on color matching all of the wires, or is that a concern since you're marking everything? Personally, for the small harnesses, I'd buy a larger gauge ribbon cable, and male and female ends to it. Make the ribbon cables with male/female ends. Cut the heating and air harnesses, and splice a male/female end onto the stock harness. Do the same with the other cut end for the controls. This should be easy to route, easy to hide and easily unpluggable if ever needed. As far as the large gauge wires, you're on your own, but I would find something that can also be unpluggable as needed.
The main things I would worry about is the added resistance on the rheostat type controls. I don't have an electrical diagram with me here at work, but I assume the hot/cold control is a rheostat and could be affected by the longer wires. Otherwise, I don't see any issues.

 

Thanks for the detailed reply
I like the thought of a ribbon cable What do you mean by a larger gauge ribbon cable? Can you buy 20 wire ribbon cable that has male female connections, then buy the pigtails to mate to the existing cable? If you a link to some of this I would appreciate it. After my post I will start some google searches.
You are correct I am only moving the controls. My idea is to move the controls to a new fabbed center console panel, in my existing overhead console. I would then cut/ fab the radio console to fit a 10.4 inch Lilliput touch screen. My computer will control radio/sound functions, so I won't need a head unit. Computer is built. monitor is purchased, just need do some wire moving and fab work.
The resistance thing, was why I made this thread. If you come up with any answers for the heater control, I would appreciate it
thanks
Don

 

I'm no electrical whiz, but from renovating some electrical in my house and having various junctions in sequence, I would be sure to keep the harnesses in the original "firing order". Also, keep the length of the new wiring the same as original. I don't know if these suggestions have any real effect on anything in automotive applications. What are you planning on doing exactly? May be easier to add suggestions.

***Now I see what you are doing. Didn't see your second post.

 

I originally looked into ribbon cables when I was researching the ability to remote mount my CB radio's face while it's main body was remotely mounted. Unfortunately I deleted all of the links of cable I'd found when I realized I couldn't take the CB apart to the degree needed. I remember having to dig deep into the internet to find what I was looking for though. The supply houses I was shopping around with would make the ribbon cables to whatever length you wanted with the connections already attached, so that shouldn't be a problem. You can buy ribbon cable with a variety of # of wires and also wire gauge. See if you can find a 20-wire cable with a wire gauge large enough to support your loads.

 

I have done this in the past on another car and it is really important that the cables are the same as the factory wires in size and the length. Also you need to solder all the wires and shrink tube all of them. As far as connectors look into Molex plugs.

 

The length issue is absolutely impossible. The harness is under the dash. I am moving them above the windshield. We are talking about 4 feet. I can use the same size wire, but the length is going to have to be changed.
That's why I have this thread started. I need to be sure this will work, with longer wire runs.

 

http://www.molex.com/molex/products...ribbon_cable_assemblies&channel=products&chanName=family&pageTitle=Introduction


Not sure if this helps or not ?

Sent from my iPhone using Autoguide ramoine

 

Ribbon Cable Assemblies - Molex


Not sure if this helps or not ?

Sent from my iPhone using Autoguide ramoine

Thanks for the link. I looked some stuff over that may help this process. All the different options will help me make a better choice. :bigthumb:

Hey Wikid, I have built some crazy crap in the past like Fiberglass dashes, interiors.. We've had to Relocate alot of features like what your doing. Make sure you stick to the Same wire sizes.. not smaller and dont over kill it. Your connections will be the Critical link in it... Personal pref here... Solder! take the time to slip on a piece of heat shrink, and then solder them together and seal it up with the heat shrink.

Ug now you got me thinking more mods to the ones I already have and dont have time to get completed!:bigthumb:

I'm with you on the real good connections. If I need to hack the harness , solder and shrink wrap, willbe the way I will go. There are a few other challenges with this mod. I really don't want the extra, large e-flasher buttons, seat belt indicator etc. I may try to find another solution for those. I just want the 5 buttons/knobs that operate the a/c controls .
I could eliminate them completely, since I could probably have those functions work through my computer screen but, I don't want to go this route

My thought is. I don't want my computer to operate critical truck functions, because if it fails, I have none of those functions. I will be controlling all the functions, that are not mandatory to get me off the trail. Yes I consider heater a/c functions critical. Defrost and comfort are all important ,as well.
thanks:cheers:

Don, I really think there must be a way to buy the male plug end for the female wire plug end of the wiring harness. This would make the connections very easy and then you could make the extensions easily.... Maybe one of our Toyota parts gurus in the forum could help you find the plugs?

Good luck, my friend! :cheers:

Your words of wisdom, at dinner the other night, have got me shaking branches, on this very subject. If there are any Toyota Tech guru's here that can point me in a direction, I would appreciate the input.
I have to weigh out the feasibility issue, before I decide how it's going to happen. The made up harness, would be the perfect solutions. If I ever wanted to take it back to stock, all I would need is a little afternoon project, to do so. I also would rather not invade the harness, if at all possible.
thanks :cheers:

 

Hey Wikid, I have built some crazy crap in the past like Fiberglass dashes, interiors.. We've had to Relocate alot of features like what your doing. Make sure you stick to the Same wire sizes.. not smaller and dont over kill it. Your connections will be the Critical link in it... Personal pref here... Solder! take the time to slip on a piece of heat shrink, and then solder them together and seal it up with the heat shrink.

Ug now you got me thinking more mods to the ones I already have and dont have time to get completed!:bigthumb:

 

Don, I really think there must be a way to buy the male plug end for the female wire plug end of the wiring harness. This would make the connections very easy and then you could make the extensions easily.... Maybe one of our Toyota parts gurus in the forum could help you find the plugs?

Good luck, my friend! :cheers:

 

Do you have the wiring diagram for your FJ? Is it a 2007? Pages 270-288 give the connectors and their respective part numbers. You should be able to buy the connectors, and wires with pins to go into the connectors and make your own removable harness. I know they sell the wires with pins for the Aux. light switch (part # 82998-12340), so I'm sure they sell more that would work with your connectors. Let me know if you don't have the wiring diagram and I'll email it to you.

 

PM sent
Thanks for the offer. that will help a lot .
Don