[TCao]

Yaesu FT-7800 Radio Update

I've been using the FT-7800 dual-band radio for a little over three years and finally got around to do some minor updates on this installation. I like having the remote head in the driver's side glove box (aka gat box) but don't care too much for the mic being plugged into the remote head. After doing some research, I was able to determine that the mic cable can be extended using a 6P6C data patch cable. I searched on the digikey website and found that Tyco Electronics makes a bulkhead 6P6C connector (Tyco PN 1-1546415-1); Tyco also offers a tethered cap for this connector.

Tyco bulkhead 6P6C connector

Both the Digikey and Tyco website do not specifically state if this connector is the data type (versus telephone/voice type). From the photo, it appears to be the data type (patch cord latches are both on the same side). So, I took a chance and ordered this connector and the tethered cap. I also purchased a 7-foot long data patch cord (at my local Fry's, PN 1639797)which is long enough to locate the mic remote connector down by the console. Well, the Digikey parts showed in three days via USPS. I did a quick check by hooking up the connector and patch cord between the remote radio head and mic and sure enough it works. :rocker:

Tyco connector with heat-shrink tubing (Digikey A34359-ND and A34352-ND)

Following the datasheet (from the Tyco website), I drilled a 1-inch hole and added a notch using a small hand file in the center console.

I had previously drilled a hole in the driver's glove box so that's where I routed the patch cord cable through from the the remote head down to the center console. The bulkhead connector was then installed.

Connector with the tethered cap installed

And with the Yaesu mic installed

Yaesu FT-7800 remote head

If you don't need to use a bulkhead connector, Fry's also has a 6P6C data coupler which was what I tried first (Fry's PN 1794090).

 

[FJ #8]

nice and clean as usual, looks great

 

[Lostmanifesto]

iPhone Vehicle Mount

I've been using this mount for the past month and have been very impressed with its quality construction and usefulness. It's the WindowSeat from Griffin Technology. It's compatible with the iPhone and the iPhone 3G and 2nd generation iPod Touch.

The adjustable suction cup is its major advantage (turning the knob next to the suction cup increase or decrease its holding power). The tension on the ball and socket swivel can also be adjusted also. I prefer this mounting location since it's a great visual reminder for me to take the phone when I'm exiting the FJC. :cheers:

The suction is strong enough to keep the phone there during harsh driving? It doesnt seem like it would stick there for long?

 

[TCao]

The suction is strong enough to keep the phone there during harsh driving? It doesnt seem like it would stick there for long?

Yes, surprisingly.

 

[Lostmanifesto]

Yes, surprisingly.

Awesome, thanks!

 

[TCao]

Here are a few photos of the second fuse box which is wired to the aux battery. It's a Blue Sea Systems six-circuit PN 5028 and mounted behind the passenger's side kick plate. This location works out very well, making it very easy to wire power for the Yaesu FT-7800 radio. two additional 12V outlets, and the back-up lights in the DeMello rear bumper.

 

[Lostmanifesto]

Here are a few photos of the second fuse box which is wired to the aux battery. It's a Blue Sea Systems six-circuit PN 5028 and mounted behind the passenger's side kick plate. This location works out very well, making it very easy to wire power for the Yaesu FT-7800 radio. two additional 12V outlets, and the back-up lights in the DeMello rear bumper.

another great mod man. i need to hire you for a day to come over and install some stuff with me

 

[TCao]

another great mod man. i need to hire you for a day to come over and install some stuff with me

Thanks.

 

[TCao]

DeMello Offroad Hitch

I've been waiting to add this offroad tow hitch since I added the DO rear bumper but it seems to be out of stock every time I was ready to buy. Well, on one of my infrequent visits last week, Jason had one. The receiver hitch is very well made (1/4-inch laser-cut plates and standard 2x2 hitch tubing) and bolt right up using the same six mounting points of the factory tow hitch. Using the factory tow hitch instruction, the installation was very easy. The two bottom threaded holes had galled threads so I decided to retap both to 1/2-20 threads. The four bolts on the vertical surface are M12-1.25 grade 10.9 and the two bottom bolts are 1/2-20 grade 8. The torque for all six bolts is 80 ft-lb per the factory instruction.

 

[25644]

That is one beautiful FJ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[TCao]

That is one beautiful FJ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thank you very much. :cheers:

 

[25644]

I have been going through your thread and must say it is well organized and informative. The quality work you are doing on your FJ makes me think your in the aviation industry.

I will be following your thread.
:wave:

Thank you very much. :cheers:

 

[TCao]

I have been going through your thread and must say it is well organized and informative. The quality work you are doing on your FJ makes me think your in the aviation industry.

I will be following your thread.
:wave:

Thanks again. You're very observant--I do work in the aviation industry and try to apply a lot of the lessons learned in modifying my FJ. I'm glad this build-up thread is informative. :sunny:

 

[TCao]

Just a quick update on how the Engel fridge slide is mounted to the cargo floor. My original installation used two grade 8 1/4-20 bolts and nuts to secure the Engel slide which works quite well if you don't need to remove the slide often.

A couple of old photos of the original installation

Well, I need to remove the Engel slide and cargo mat in order to remove the rear interior panels to add more sound deadening materials over the rear wheel wells. It took some effort to remove these two bolts so I decided to replace them with a couple of M6-1.00 zinc-chromate plated steel rivnuts (rivet nuts).

For installing just a couple of rivnuts, I decided not to buy the installation tool and came up with a simple "tool" which consists of a M6-1.00 x 30mm long socket head bolt, a M6-1.00 nut, a grade 8 flat washer, and a sealing flat washer (rubber seal on one side). The sealing flat washer acts as the anvil so it's important that the ID fits as tight as possible on the M6 bolt. I also sprayed a light coat of Tri-Flow on the bolt. If a sealing washer is not available, a small steel bar can also be used as anvil by drilling a 6mm hole in it for the bolt to pass through.

Tools required for M6 rivnuts installation: allen wrench, 10mm wrench, and 9mm drill bit.

The rivnut is installed by insert the rivnut which is previously screwed onto the bolt with the two flat washers under the nut. While holding the bolt stationary, the nut is turned clockwise to "draw" the rivnut. I marked the nut and made three complete turns on the nut after I felt some initial resistance when the rivnut started to cinch down. The photo below shows one knurled rivnut installed on the "tool" ready to be installed and also the installed rivnut just below it.

Bottom view showing the installed rivnut

 

[LOCKINGSANDSTORM]

Chime No More

As part of the silent treatment , I used bugs1961's technical article to disable the interior warning chime. Instead of cutting the three wires, I decided to unsnap the latch on the connector and push the three terminals out. The three wires are:

1. Violet/Green stripe (V/G): Key in ignition warning
2. Light Blue/Red stripe (L/R): Passenger seat belt warning
3. Green/Yellow stripe (G/Y): Driver seat belt warning

Just in case I ever want to reverse this change, I made a note of the location of the three wires.

I used 3/32" heat-shrink tubing on each of the three terminals

Then, I taped all three loose wires down with electrical tape and plugged the connector

Why did you do this? You know there is a method to turning over 10 mph seat belt warning through a trip button sequence don't you? I would never cut wires to get rid of a chime. :thinkerg:

 

[Bob]

he didnt cut them, just pushed them out of the plug. he could put them back if wanted. the reason is that the factory disable (what i did) has to be redone if you ever disconnect the batt. but by removing the connections at the plug is permenate until you reconnect them

 

[TCao]

Why did you do this? You know there is a method to turning over 10 mph seat belt warning through a trip button sequence don't you? I would never cut wires to get rid of a chime. :thinkerg:

he didnt cut them, just pushed them out of the plug. he could put them back if wanted. the reason is that the factory disable (what i did) has to be redone if you ever disconnect the batt. but by removing the connections at the plug is permenate until you reconnect them

Florida Bronco is absolutely correct. FWIW, I've been using the odometer reset button method (see below) for the past 4+ years and it gets tiresome to do after each time the battery needs to be disconnected.

If you do not want to modify the wiring harness to disable the chime, here are the steps:

1. Turn the ignition switch on (without starting car)
2. Press the ODO/TRIP switch until the odometer displays "ODO"
3. Turn the ignition switch off
4. Turn the ignition switch on
5. Press ODO/TRIP switch immediately (within 6 seconds after turning the power switch ON) and hold it down for 10 seconds or more
6. Continue holding the ODO/TRIP switch and fasten the front seat belt
7. Check that the odometer displays either "b-on" or "b-off" (it will be "b-on")
8. Press the ODO/TRIP button to change the display to "b-off"
9. Turn the ignition switch off
10. Turn the ignition switch on while depressing the brake pedal

:cheers:

 

[Lostmanifesto]

Florida Bronco is absolutely correct. FWIW, I've been using the odometer reset button method (see below) for the past 4+ years and it gets tiresome to do after each time the battery needs to be disconnected.

If you do not want to modify the wiring harness to disable the chime, here are the steps:

1. Turn the ignition switch on (without starting car)
2. Press the ODO/TRIP switch until the odometer displays "ODO"
3. Turn the ignition switch off
4. Turn the ignition switch on
5. Press ODO/TRIP switch immediately (within 6 seconds after turning the power switch ON) and hold it down for 10 seconds or more
6. Continue holding the ODO/TRIP switch and fasten the front seat belt
7. Check that the odometer displays either "b-on" or "b-off" (it will be "b-on")
8. Press the ODO/TRIP button to change the display to "b-off"
9. Turn the ignition switch off
10. Turn the ignition switch on while depressing the brake pedal

:cheers:

Does thus work for both driver and passenger belts?

 

[TCao]

Does thus work for both driver and passenger belts?

Yes, the odometer reset button method should work for both front seat belts but will not disable the key in ignition chime.
EDIT: This method also does not disable the seat belt warning light either.

 

[TCao]

A few more photos of Dynamat Xtreme and sound deadening foam application.

Cargo floor with Dynamat (I didn't take any photos but decided to add the neoprene foam on top of the Dynamat layer as well)

Both rear wheel well areas also got the Dynamat + foam treatment; photos are of the passenger's side (relay is for the back up lights in the DeMello rear bumper)

This Dynamat + neoprene foam treatment on the cargo floor, rear wheel wells, and rear door completely eleminates the TRD exhaust drone. I may need to do the same sound deadening treatment under the front seats and firewall next.