Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum banner

CLEAN 12v Fuse Block Accessory Install w/Pics

135K views 123 replies 57 participants last post by  snypr  
#1 · (Edited)
Ok, first I don’t like to tap into existing electrical components in my vehicles, I like to run their on wiring. I went to West Marine and bought a “ST Blade Fuse Block” It takes the small blade fuses, it also has (6) accessory you can run off it. I like because it is marine quality, the automotive fuse blocks are kind of rinky dink IMO. Then I bought 12’ of 10 Gauge wire for running straight from the battery to the fuse box. I didn’t know at the time where I wanted to put the box at inside the vehicle, this is why I bought 12’.

Image


Image


I first ran the 10 gauge red positive wire from the battery along the fender wall, then ran the 10 gauge black neg wire from the fender wall. I used black colored small cable ties to keep them bundled together. Next I used an existing rubber firewall plug, made a small hole, then pushed both wires through into the cabin area. I then pulled the rest of the slack into the cabin, leaving very little slack in the engine bay area. I had bought some automotive wire protective sleeve material; I used it to wrap the wires together to make it look like all the other wires that are run in the engine bay, it makes for a very clean appearance.

Image


Image


Image


I decided in the end the best place for the fuse block was under the driver’s side dash off the firewall. I noticed when looking under there that off the Brake Bracket has (2) bolts that protruded out with enough thread for some nuts to be tightened on. I decided that this would be the best location for the box, but I would have to make a bracket for the box to hang off the brake bracket.

Image


I then measured the distance between the two bolts; it came to 2-1/2 inches. I then drew a template up and cut it out, placed it inside holding up next to the bolts, it was going to work great. I had some 16 gauge steel that I bought for making a CB mount, I had some of this material left, so used it for the fuse bracket. I traced it on to the steel, then cut it out with a cutoff wheel on my hand held grinder. Then took over to the belt sander, smoothing the edges out. Next, I measured the fuse box mounting screw locations. I marked these on the steel and then took it over to my drill press, drilled four small holes where the box is going to mount. I then drilled (2) 5/16” holes for the mounting to the steering box. I test fitted the bracket, it worked great, I then painted it gray set to dry.

Image


Image


Next I mounted the fuse block to the bracket and then mounted the bracket to the brake bracket using (2) 5/16” locknuts.

Image


Image


Image


Image


Image


Next I finished it off by cutting the excess wire off to the desired length, crimped elect connectors on the ends of both wires, then hooked them up, then placed the fuse block cover on. Now I have (6) open areas to run what ever I want inside with fuses. I just finished making a real clean CB mount which attaches under the center console using the existing bolt from the sensor and one from the shift box. It comes out underneath the side of the console and attaches to my large Cobra 148 NW ST Sound Tracker Single Sideband CB. I also run a police scanner and some other 12-volt items. This will give me room to grow, without the hassle of finding hot wires, and ground locations, plus having everything in one place if a fuse blows. Just thought I would pass it on to anyone that might to do something like this too.

When doing any elec work, remove the Neg from the battery.
Side note: I will be installing a 125A fuse between the Battery & Fuse Block.

****************UPDATE******************

I have installed an inline 60 amp Fuse between the Battery & Fuse Block. This will help insure of any High amperage short to the fuse block inside the cabin. The Fuse block said to install 125 amp fuse. I tried finding one without ordering online, and found the largest I could find locally was a 60amp inline fuse. A 125 amp has to be huge, I think a little over kill myself. I went with the 60amp, it should suffice. The following are some pics of the inline fuse installed for everyone. I installed it a while back and told everyone that I would update the thread when finished. Sorry for the delay, I took some pic's this morning.

Image


Image


Image


I hope this helps everyone :D
 
#3 ·
Thanks:)
 
#6 ·
Thanks, I like to keep everything clean inside, there is not much room to work with under the dash. I don't like to have wires running all over, tapping into other wires. If I have a problem, I know just where to go to trouble shoot it.:)

that is sweet, thanks for the writeup...:roller:
Thanks :D
 
#8 ·
Appreciated :D
 
#10 ·
Thanks, I'm very meticulous on my wiring :)
 
#11 ·
At what point do you think you're going to need an additional battery? Was thinking of running a new fuse box for any extras, but was going to wait until I got an extra power source.
 
#13 ·
This box is for running my CB, Scanner, Radar Det, Under dash Black out lights, driving lights, Flood Lights, etc. I will move to a dual Battery setup when I buy my RA Bumper & Warn Winch. I will want a second with an installed winch. This is why I ran 10 Gauge wire for the Main, to handle my extras. :D
 
#14 ·
I want to do something like this bad but I am so lost when it comes to electrical stuff.

Great Write up! I have my CB still in the box that I need to get around to wiring and a Sirius radio receiver I would like to hardwire. You wont happen to be in eastern NC anytime soon?:cowtounge:
 
#15 ·
I just finished making a "No Drill Large CB Mount". I have a large CB, not many places to mount it inside the vehicle. I don't want to drill in the Glove box like some others have. I found underneath the center console are (2) bolts that I tied into. The CB Bracket comes out underneath the console, very clean looking, it sits along the passenger side of the console. I'll be posting the write up in a day or two. And no, I won't be in the NC area sorry:slant: , It's very nice where you are.
 
#21 ·
Thanks, I like it clean under the dash :D

Nice mount location... Thanks for the Info...
I think I may be making a stop at the marine
store on the way home...
Bandi Stay tuned, I'll be posting my Large CB Bracket install w/pics soon; along with the "Bandi" mount! It came yesterday, very nice work Bandi!
 
#20 ·
Nice mount location... Thanks for the Info...
I think I may be making a stop at the marine
store on the way home...
 
#22 ·
Very nice writeup!
The plate you made for the aux. box is very cool.

Wayne and I did mine a little different as far as the location of the box.
Auxiliary Fusebox & Twin 12v Outlets/FJ Cruiser - Welcome To YotaTech's Wiki

That Blue Sea box is a very popular unit that I have seen used in many a Toyota aux. fusebox installation.

If I add another box to the inside one day, I will have to try your way with the template, that is very slick.
 
#23 ·
Thanks! I love the duel install that you did, I am going to do the same a little down the road, thanks for the info :D
 
#25 ·
Very sharp work!!

BTW (nit) when working on the electrics, it is best to remove the NEG terminal from the bat, instead of the POS. I never could figure out why this was till recently.

If you remove the POS term, there still exists a potential for a tool to cause a short between the frame (NEG) and the POS terminal of the battery (POW!)

If you remove the NEG term, you have a risk of a tool causing a short fromthe NEG term to the frame, but all this would do would be to apply power to the vehicle electrical system briefly (which may not be a good thing, but probably less of a hazard than a 1000 amp short)

A short between POS of the battery and the frame when the negative terminal is still connencted is always enlightening and memorable.

If the neg is disconnected, a tool short from battery POS to the frame is not a short of the BATT, since there is no return path to the negative term of the batt.
 
#26 ·
Your right :) It's been a while since I did an automotive electrical work. Thanks, I'll make the change:D
 
#27 ·
Excellent job. Rep points for you. 1 question. Why 125 amps? Sounds like a lot. Will your wire carry that much current?
 
#29 ·
The type of fuse block I used spec'd out to put an inline 125 amp fuse between the source and the fuse block. I just thought I would pass that info on to anyone that planed on doing the same thing. I haven't done it yet, but i will put in a high amp fuse somewhere in the engine bay. I'll update this post when I do. Thanks for the Rep Points, they are allways welcome :D
 
#28 ·
Awesome mod and writeup!

Another great one from an FJForum member!!

what a community!!

T
 
#30 ·
Great job and super write-up, shadow!!

Question: Do you know how to add an additional auxillary fuse block (like yours) that would be activated by the ignition switch being on (like the radio, A/C, wipers, etc.), and then turn off everything on that block when the ignition is turned off.

Given the choice, I'm not big on tapping into existing circuits (Add-A-Circuit) unless I really have to either. And, there are only so many available "Accessory" circuits/fuses anyway.

A heavy-duty relay from the battery to the aux fuse block triggered by one of the "key on" circuits??
 
#31 ·
A heavy-duty relay from the battery to the aux fuse block triggered by one of the "key on" circuits??
That method is what I have read.

You hook up the relay like you would for a set of lights, but without a switch.
You could use a fusetap to the incab fusebox to powerup the relay when the key is on.

Image
 
#34 ·
Bump :D
 
#36 ·
Thanks, Glad I could help out :D
 
#37 · (Edited)
****************UPDATE******************

I have installed an inline 60 amp Fuse between the Battery & Fuse Block. This will help insure of any High amperage short to the fuse block inside the cabin. The Fuse block said to install 125 amp fuse. I tried finding one without ordering online, and found the largest I could find locally was a 60amp inline fuse. A 125 amp has to be huge, I think a little over kill myself. I went with the 60amp, it should suffice. The following are some pics of the inline fuse installed for everyone. I installed it a while back and told everyone that I would update the thread when finished. Sorry for the delay, I took some pic's this morning.

Image


Image


Image


I hope this helps everyone :D I also updated the first post to reflect this update :cowsmile:
 
#38 · (Edited)
Where is my pic's ? whats going on with the server?...Never mind, I fixed it :D
 
#40 ·
Your welcome, I hope it helps :)
 
#41 ·
I noticed that the thread has Five Stars now, I'm glad it's helping others out. I wonder if it should be made a “Sticky” ?. I wonder what the MOD’s think..Humm…
 
#47 ·
I would want this thread stickied so I can find it faster. Thanks.

Just out of curiosity, Mike, why did you run your ground from the fender rather than just a short jumper to the bolt where you mounted the fuse block? I'm assuming it's grounded to the frame as well.

Any reason not to do that and save a long wire run?
It's good practice to run ground wires to the same point to prevent ground loops which could cause interference with other electronic devices such as Ham radio or CB or stereo.
 
#42 ·
Just out of curiosity, Mike, why did you run your ground from the fender rather than just a short jumper to the bolt where you mounted the fuse block? I'm assuming it's grounded to the frame as well.

Any reason not to do that and save a long wire run?
 
#43 ·
You can, I just wanted everything that I was running kind of up-front so it's easier to troubleshoot if something happens :)